gmsracing

I did some searches and I found out a lot of info but I still have a couple of more questions:

I have an '86 951 that is bleeding off boost in the high rpms. I would like to replace the wastegate with a 38mm Tial but I wanted to continue to run my Authority II chips with the cycling valve for now until I get a boost controller & software to support that. I have the 2-piece cross over so it should fit. Questions are:

1. Can the Tial be run in single-port mode? I belive I read that it can but I couldn't find that post.
2. If so, what spring should I get with it?
3. If the cycling valve is still being used, I assume there won't be a problem with overboosting. Is that correct? Or, does the Tial do something else that I'm not aware of?

Basically I'd like to replace the wastegate with the Tial now so I can build off of that in the future.

Thanks-Rob

lart951

Rob, yes you can use the Tial in single mode, also if you are using your stock CV I don't see any problems with that. If you want to know what spring rate you need just contact myswiss he is very helpful and his customer service non pair.
his phone is 1-866-944-7278 or
email Sales@europartsetc.com

streckfu's

Very good idea.

Get a spring rate that is rated at less than the boost you plan to run. I have the .8 bar in mine. You may want to go less.

SamGrant951

Do you want to be able to dial back down to 10psi ever? Are you confident you will never set it below 15psi? Get the spring closest to what you will be running day in/day out. I got a .65bar spring and Ive never had the car set below 15psi. Should have got a 1bar spring. Personally I would just put the stock banjo back in and get a MBC and run dual port. APE chips were not really made with the idea of holding full boost to redline so watch your a/f up top. (I ran the same setup for years with 0 problems, but its good to know about it up front.)

streckfu's

It's not any harder to install a MBC if you're already putting in the Tial. I'd follow Sam's recomendation.

gmsracing

Thanks for your replies.

Sam- If I put the stock banjo bolt back in and get a MBC I believe I'll need new software to support the fact that I can hold full boost to redline. My thought was that if I could continue to run the cycling valve for now w/o a MBC, then it should bleed off as normal and I won't run into any mixtures issues in the upper rpms. (Other than what is already present in the chips!)

As for boost levels, I'm not really planning to run less than what I am already doing. It boosts close to the 1 bar on the stock gauge now. It just doesn't hold it! Sounds like the .8 bar spring would be a good spring to use.

Ultimately I'm hoping to get a Vitesse kit or the Lindsey 340 kit, but for now I wanted to try and correct my issue. I was hoping to purchase something that would work now and for the future plans!

Rob

gmsracing

So, who makes the better adapter plates? SFR or Myswiss?

streckfu's

PM sent.

jimbo1111

Your k26 may not be able to hold boost to redline anyway. Just get a 1 bar spring and delete the cv. run a hose from the boost pipe to the side port of the tial. Even if your turbo can hold the boost to redline you won't run as lean as you think. The additional air will be sensed by the afm and more fuel will be added by the dme. You could also bump up the fuel pressure a couple of psi with a afpr. This will add fuel to the whole curve. The 02 will correct the part throttle as long as it's not to far out of range. In closed loop/ full throttle the extra fuel should keep it safe.

gmsracing

That's true. I don't even know what that turbo is cabable of !!

Ryan in SD

I was reseraching tial and saw that your not holding boost...

You should be able to hold full boost with stock wastegate using those chips. I have the same chips and stock wastegate too and can hold boost all the way.

Im not losing boost but my problem is that it takes a quarter past eternity for it to fully spool. I think I want to get an AF gauge and boost controller first though.

streckfu's

Not true.
The chips don't control boost. Plus, with the CV still installed, his car begins bleeding boost as it is building. It's the way the system was designed. Also, the stock turbo can't support full boost to redline.

I ran the same set up for 3 years and had the same problems he is encountering.

What method of boost control are you using.

ENGINEERMAN

Hi:

I too am having some boost bleed at high RPM's with my tires stock WG and am looking to upgrade. I was wondering if there is any great difference in performance between the TIAL unit and the Lindsey Racing unit? I have purchased several Items from LR & find their quality to be very good. Also, Dave is very helpful.

Any advise?

Thanks

porshhhh951

I have run both and their are the same. Dave's unit is complete bolt up and its a nice piece.

I still have the stock turbo so I loose several lbs of boost by redline but, the LR dp helps me build it as fast as possible.

streckfu's

There have been some users on this forum that have expressed issues with the LR wastegate. Apparently a few have failed because of the re-use old stock parts that failed after Lindsey modified them. Not to mention, the LR wastegate is almost $100 more expensive and still requires a core.

The Tial, is brand new and bolts up directly with the use of the adapters both suppliers include. Also the Tial, is regarded as the best WG on the market for our cars.

What I did was buy the Tial from MySwiss for $315 delivered and then sold my stock WG to Lindsey for $100 in store credit which I used on their MBC and gauge plate.

To buy from Lindsey requires $399 purchase price + $300 core charge and is still a rebuilt 20 year old WG. That's $600 up front with no guarantee that your WG is usable to them negating your core.

I like Lindsey a lot and would most anything from them (just not the wastegate).