Help.....Please
10-03-2005, 08:10 PM
#1
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Help.....Please
Hey All,
I just got back from the "test-only" smog stations and my car failed the smog test. My car is considered a "gross-polluter"
. Does anyone know any good/reputable shops in SoCal (specifically Diamond Bar, Chino Hills area) that can repair my car to pass California emissions test. Better yet, does anyone know anyone that can pass my car? 
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Godfrey
Here's my #'s:
HC (PPM) 163/ Max 133
CO(%) 0.89/ Max 0.82
NO (PPM) 2383/ Max 1125
I just got back from the "test-only" smog stations and my car failed the smog test. My car is considered a "gross-polluter"
. Does anyone know any good/reputable shops in SoCal (specifically Diamond Bar, Chino Hills area) that can repair my car to pass California emissions test. Better yet, does anyone know anyone that can pass my car? Any help would be appreciated.Thanks,
Godfrey
Here's my #'s:
HC (PPM) 163/ Max 133
CO(%) 0.89/ Max 0.82
NO (PPM) 2383/ Max 1125
Last edited by GODS951; 10-03-2005 at 08:29 PM.
10-03-2005, 08:30 PM
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Ouch, gross-polluter means you're 2x the limit. What speed(15mph or 25mph) are those numbers for?
You failed every test, which is pretty bad. Any mods?
I failed mine last month, but only by a bit. A full tune-up(plugs, filters, etc) and fixing a few vacuum leaks got me within spec.
-Ian
You failed every test, which is pretty bad. Any mods?
I failed mine last month, but only by a bit. A full tune-up(plugs, filters, etc) and fixing a few vacuum leaks got me within spec.
-Ian
10-03-2005, 09:14 PM
#3
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Hey GODS951, I live in CT and had a rolling test, but w/Vitesses software on a fairly stock motor (LBE dialed down to 12 psi) w/116,000 on the clock, I passed easily. Have your O2 sensor checked, and also do a full tune-up. My car seems pretty happy after a new distributor cap and rotor, so do that too.
- See ya.
- See ya.
10-04-2005, 01:02 AM
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Thanks for the replies guys. Anyway, I failed all 3 on the 15 mph test. But i only failed the NOx test on the 25 mph test, which was 1581 when the max was 995. I asked some friends and they think it might be the transducer, vaccuum lines on the EGR, or the EGR valve itself. What do you guys think? Man, this is really bugging me 
. This will definitely hold me back on a few mods i had been planning for the car. What a burn!!!
. This will definitely hold me back on a few mods i had been planning for the car. What a burn!!!
10-04-2005, 11:08 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
I would start by "back probing" the O2 sensor with a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) set on the 2 volt scale. Start the engine and let it come up to temperature. As the sensor heats up you should see the DVM reading change. At idle the voltage should vary across 0.50 volts. If the reading is consistantly high, or consistantly low, replace the sensor. You can get a Bosch 3-wire heated sensor for around $40.00 at most parts stores (Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc.). If you do not have access to a DVM, start the engine, let it warm up, and then disconnect the O2 sensor. If the sensor is working the engine RPM should change. This is due to the fact that the DME will default to a RICH mixture when the O2 sensor signal is invalid. If you unplug the sensor and the RPM does not change, replace the sensor.
Check the DME Temp Sensor. This is the sensor at the front of the engine with the BLUE connector. Use a DVM set to the OHMS (resistance scale) and check the sensor when the engine is COLD. Reconnect the sensor, start the engine and let it come up to temperature. Check the sensor again. The readings should be substantially different. If the readings are the same, replace the sensor. This sensor sends a coolant temp value to the DME. The DME uses this value to calculate cold start and normal temperature fuel/air mixture values. The sensor is an NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient Device. All this means is that the sensor has a high resistance when it is cold, and the resistance decreases as the device heats up. If this sensor fails OPEN (infinite resistance, or resistance very high) the DME "thinks" the engine is cold and will use a RICH mixture.
Check your plugs. For a normal Fuel/Air mixture, the plugs should have orange/tan deposits. Yellow/White = Lean, Dark Brown/Black = Rich. Clean the plugs and check the gap. Should be 0.28mm or 0.7". If the plugs are worn, replace them, they're cheap. I use either NGK's or Bosch WRDC's.
Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator: With the engine running, remove and plug the vacuum line. The engine RPM should change. This is due to the fact that the FPR will "fail" to MAX fuel pressure, which in turn causes the engine to run RICH.
Once you have this all sorted out, put some PREMIUM, or if you can find it RACE gas in the tank and go for a LONG drive, preferably on an Interstate. You want to run the car "at speed" for a good distance to get as much "crap" out of the cylinders and exhaust system as possible. Do some "hard" accelerations (but not drag racing style "rev and dump the clutch" launches, you don't want to break stuff). The long drive will help clean out the CAT, and the accelerations will tend to blow stuff out of the cylinders and exhaust system.
Check vacuum to the FPR and Fuel Damper. No vacuum or vacuum leaks will cause fuel pressure problems.
Check the DME Temp Sensor. This is the sensor at the front of the engine with the BLUE connector. Use a DVM set to the OHMS (resistance scale) and check the sensor when the engine is COLD. Reconnect the sensor, start the engine and let it come up to temperature. Check the sensor again. The readings should be substantially different. If the readings are the same, replace the sensor. This sensor sends a coolant temp value to the DME. The DME uses this value to calculate cold start and normal temperature fuel/air mixture values. The sensor is an NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient Device. All this means is that the sensor has a high resistance when it is cold, and the resistance decreases as the device heats up. If this sensor fails OPEN (infinite resistance, or resistance very high) the DME "thinks" the engine is cold and will use a RICH mixture.
Check your plugs. For a normal Fuel/Air mixture, the plugs should have orange/tan deposits. Yellow/White = Lean, Dark Brown/Black = Rich. Clean the plugs and check the gap. Should be 0.28mm or 0.7". If the plugs are worn, replace them, they're cheap. I use either NGK's or Bosch WRDC's.
Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator: With the engine running, remove and plug the vacuum line. The engine RPM should change. This is due to the fact that the FPR will "fail" to MAX fuel pressure, which in turn causes the engine to run RICH.
Once you have this all sorted out, put some PREMIUM, or if you can find it RACE gas in the tank and go for a LONG drive, preferably on an Interstate. You want to run the car "at speed" for a good distance to get as much "crap" out of the cylinders and exhaust system as possible. Do some "hard" accelerations (but not drag racing style "rev and dump the clutch" launches, you don't want to break stuff). The long drive will help clean out the CAT, and the accelerations will tend to blow stuff out of the cylinders and exhaust system.
Check vacuum to the FPR and Fuel Damper. No vacuum or vacuum leaks will cause fuel pressure problems.
10-04-2005, 11:40 AM
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In California 'Gross Polluter' only means that your particular car, year, model has been marked as having higher than average emissions and has to go to a test only shop. You are termed a gross polluter even before you go to the shop so the 2X is something that had to have happened previously to earn the title. Personally I prefer Test Only to to Smog N' Robs that always seem to find something they want you to pay to fix. I take all my cars to TO even if I don't have to.
10-04-2005, 12:23 PM
#7
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ditto on what steve said, i always loved going to a shop where they'd say "well your car doesnt pass.....but we can fix it...for a price 
" . i've kind of wanted to take my car to a test only station right now with my no cat and my guru chips just to see what they say when it starts shooting flames on the dyno. 
" . i've kind of wanted to take my car to a test only station right now with my no cat and my guru chips just to see what they say when it starts shooting flames on the dyno.
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10-04-2005, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlotte944
I would start by "back probing" the O2 sensor with a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) set on the 2 volt scale. Start the engine and let it come up to temperature. As the sensor heats up you should see the DVM reading change. At idle the voltage should vary across 0.50 volts. If the reading is consistantly high, or consistantly low, replace the sensor. You can get a Bosch 3-wire heated sensor for around $40.00 at most parts stores (Auto Zone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc.). If you do not have access to a DVM, start the engine, let it warm up, and then disconnect the O2 sensor. If the sensor is working the engine RPM should change. This is due to the fact that the DME will default to a RICH mixture when the O2 sensor signal is invalid. If you unplug the sensor and the RPM does not change, replace the sensor.
Check the DME Temp Sensor. This is the sensor at the front of the engine with the BLUE connector. Use a DVM set to the OHMS (resistance scale) and check the sensor when the engine is COLD. Reconnect the sensor, start the engine and let it come up to temperature. Check the sensor again. The readings should be substantially different. If the readings are the same, replace the sensor. This sensor sends a coolant temp value to the DME. The DME uses this value to calculate cold start and normal temperature fuel/air mixture values. The sensor is an NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient Device. All this means is that the sensor has a high resistance when it is cold, and the resistance decreases as the device heats up. If this sensor fails OPEN (infinite resistance, or resistance very high) the DME "thinks" the engine is cold and will use a RICH mixture.
Check your plugs. For a normal Fuel/Air mixture, the plugs should have orange/tan deposits. Yellow/White = Lean, Dark Brown/Black = Rich. Clean the plugs and check the gap. Should be 0.28mm or 0.7". If the plugs are worn, replace them, they're cheap. I use either NGK's or Bosch WRDC's.
Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator: With the engine running, remove and plug the vacuum line. The engine RPM should change. This is due to the fact that the FPR will "fail" to MAX fuel pressure, which in turn causes the engine to run RICH.
Once you have this all sorted out, put some PREMIUM, or if you can find it RACE gas in the tank and go for a LONG drive, preferably on an Interstate. You want to run the car "at speed" for a good distance to get as much "crap" out of the cylinders and exhaust system as possible. Do some "hard" accelerations (but not drag racing style "rev and dump the clutch" launches, you don't want to break stuff). The long drive will help clean out the CAT, and the accelerations will tend to blow stuff out of the cylinders and exhaust system.
Check vacuum to the FPR and Fuel Damper. No vacuum or vacuum leaks will cause fuel pressure problems.
Check the DME Temp Sensor. This is the sensor at the front of the engine with the BLUE connector. Use a DVM set to the OHMS (resistance scale) and check the sensor when the engine is COLD. Reconnect the sensor, start the engine and let it come up to temperature. Check the sensor again. The readings should be substantially different. If the readings are the same, replace the sensor. This sensor sends a coolant temp value to the DME. The DME uses this value to calculate cold start and normal temperature fuel/air mixture values. The sensor is an NTC, or Negative Temperature Coefficient Device. All this means is that the sensor has a high resistance when it is cold, and the resistance decreases as the device heats up. If this sensor fails OPEN (infinite resistance, or resistance very high) the DME "thinks" the engine is cold and will use a RICH mixture.
Check your plugs. For a normal Fuel/Air mixture, the plugs should have orange/tan deposits. Yellow/White = Lean, Dark Brown/Black = Rich. Clean the plugs and check the gap. Should be 0.28mm or 0.7". If the plugs are worn, replace them, they're cheap. I use either NGK's or Bosch WRDC's.
Check the Fuel Pressure Regulator: With the engine running, remove and plug the vacuum line. The engine RPM should change. This is due to the fact that the FPR will "fail" to MAX fuel pressure, which in turn causes the engine to run RICH.
Once you have this all sorted out, put some PREMIUM, or if you can find it RACE gas in the tank and go for a LONG drive, preferably on an Interstate. You want to run the car "at speed" for a good distance to get as much "crap" out of the cylinders and exhaust system as possible. Do some "hard" accelerations (but not drag racing style "rev and dump the clutch" launches, you don't want to break stuff). The long drive will help clean out the CAT, and the accelerations will tend to blow stuff out of the cylinders and exhaust system.
Check vacuum to the FPR and Fuel Damper. No vacuum or vacuum leaks will cause fuel pressure problems.
Thanks Charlotte 944!!! I'll definitely look into that.
10-04-2005, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by KuHL 951
In California 'Gross Polluter' only means that your particular car, year, model has been marked as having higher than average emissions and has to go to a test only shop. You are termed a gross polluter even before you go to the shop so the 2X is something that had to have happened previously to earn the title. Personally I prefer Test Only to to Smog N' Robs that always seem to find something they want you to pay to fix. I take all my cars to TO even if I don't have to.
What offset are they and what size. I'm looking into CCW's aswell (18x8.5f and 18x10r), i was what offset you would recommend for my car. Also, how much $$ is it going to run me; I have yet to inquire about the $price$.
10-04-2005, 04:01 PM
#11
Three Wheelin'
I realize that in some states like CA, smog testing can be a real PITA, but there is a much better way to look at this issue.
As designed, and when it is operating properly, the 944/951 engine management system will consistantly beat ANY existing emissions requirements.
Where most folks get into trouble passing emissions testing is when they have made modifications that were not properly installed/adjusted or when they have not performed routine maintenance.
Another item that most folks overlook is gas mileage. These cars will easily get 20+ mpg city (my 951 gets about 22 MPG city), and a properly running turbo with mild mods (like my '86 with Guru 15# chips, 3.0 BAR FPR and a ReliaBoost MBC) gets 30+ MPG on the highway.
My point here is, do the maintenance BEFORE you take the car to get inspected/tested. Back probe the O2 sensor with a DVM to make sure it is functioning properly (A bad O2 sensor is without a doubt the #1 cause off failed emissions testing). Change the oil, oil filter, and air filter. Check the spark plugs , plug wires, rotor and distributor cap. A faulty ignition system wastes fuel and can cause your car to fail emissons testing. If there is any doubt about the plugs, change 'em, they're cheap. Check/change the oil in the transmission. Keep your tires properly inflated, and keep the suspension in alignment. Add a bottle of Red Line SL1 Fuel System cleaner to a fresh tank of gas, run the tank "dry" (Do some long distance high speed (Interstate) driving) and make sure there is PREMIUM gas in the tank when you get the car tested.
As designed, and when it is operating properly, the 944/951 engine management system will consistantly beat ANY existing emissions requirements.
Where most folks get into trouble passing emissions testing is when they have made modifications that were not properly installed/adjusted or when they have not performed routine maintenance.
Another item that most folks overlook is gas mileage. These cars will easily get 20+ mpg city (my 951 gets about 22 MPG city), and a properly running turbo with mild mods (like my '86 with Guru 15# chips, 3.0 BAR FPR and a ReliaBoost MBC) gets 30+ MPG on the highway.
My point here is, do the maintenance BEFORE you take the car to get inspected/tested. Back probe the O2 sensor with a DVM to make sure it is functioning properly (A bad O2 sensor is without a doubt the #1 cause off failed emissions testing). Change the oil, oil filter, and air filter. Check the spark plugs , plug wires, rotor and distributor cap. A faulty ignition system wastes fuel and can cause your car to fail emissons testing. If there is any doubt about the plugs, change 'em, they're cheap. Check/change the oil in the transmission. Keep your tires properly inflated, and keep the suspension in alignment. Add a bottle of Red Line SL1 Fuel System cleaner to a fresh tank of gas, run the tank "dry" (Do some long distance high speed (Interstate) driving) and make sure there is PREMIUM gas in the tank when you get the car tested.
