Alpine951

I was in the Autozone today and i was thinking about when I replaced the HG recently there was some carbon build up on top of some of the pistons. The sea foam says you either put it in the gas or pour it slowly intake a vacum source that will feed the intake directly. If you pour it into a hot motor directly you are supposed to shut it down and wait 5 minutes and then start it up.

Ski

I just used it in my MasterCraft last week and it is great stuff.

You can use a vac line to suck it in, let it set for 5 minutes, start it up and it will run rough for a couple of minutes, smoke, but then it will smooth out and run like silk.

Sam Lin

I've used it multiple times on multiple cars - same experiences as Ski, great stuff.

Sam

ehall

Which vaccuum line do you ordinarily choose?

Alpine951

Hey Bret,


I have the 5 port manifold that Laust made on here. So i could unplug one of the vacum lines coming off of it, like the one going to the diverter valve sitting on top of the j boot and just stick the line in the can and let it suck up the stuff<


John

Ski

I used a small paper cup to let it suck in about 1/2 to 3/4 or until the engine starts smoking. Then let it sit for 5 minutes, crank it back up. But yes, that would be an easy line to get to.

You can put it in the crank case and run it for a short time then change your oil and filter. I think the recommendation is a pint in the crankcase for any sludge, lifter noise, etc. I would use that as if an engine was cold, if you're down from full, put it in and let it idle to normal temp then change the oil, just me.

Eyal 951

I use seafoam as well, great stuff. But I DON'T use it on a turbo car. I dunno if this is unfounded or not, but think about when you do the WOT run after letting it sit (like should be done) and that diverter valve releases liquid right infront of your turbo. something spinning at 120,000 RPM does not like liquid, it will probably damage the fins.
On my daily driver, I think I put a third in the fuel tank, a third in the crank case, and the last third I run through the motor via the brake booster hose. I have a funnel with a hose and valve at the end of it. I try and regulate the amount of liqiuid released at a time to make sure it doesn't hydrolock. But it stalls out anyway if you give it too much. after that, you turn it off, let it sit for 10 minutes, then you do drive it hard until the smoke clears. Supposedly, the smokier the exhasut, the more it cleaned out.
~Eyal

ehall

"I use seafoam as well, great stuff. But I DON'T use it on a turbo car. I dunno if this is unfounded or not, but think about when you do the WOT run after letting it sit (like should be done) and that diverter valve releases liquid right infront of your turbo. something spinning at 120,000 RPM does not like liquid, it will probably damage the fins."

But wait. Wouldn't it be sucked in using the vaccuum line that attaches to the top of the diverter valve? If so, it would enter via the exhaust. It Am I wrong? I'm not the tech that some of you guys are so if wrong let me know. Id like to do this. I'm right at 100k on the motor. TIA guys

edited for brain death issues of the composer.

KLR

Wouldn't the carbon cr@p be sent through the turbo on the way out to the tailpipe? That can't be good.

ehall

goos question. Wouldn't it have a similar effect on the crap built up in the turbo? nteresting thread? It would be nice to know.

David Floyd

Blades on the turbine side are rather beefy, should not harm them.

IanS

And I wouldn't suggest putting it in the oil either. Maybe AutoRX or Lube Control if you have sludge or leaks, but not Seafoam.

Some people recommend 1/3 of a can of Seafoam, then a similar amount of water, then another 1/3 of a can of Seafoam.

The other option is a top cleaner which you let sit on the piston. If you have really tough carbon, that may be a good choice, though its not going to clean your intake valves like seafoam through the vac lines will.

"Crap built up in the turbo"? Your exhaust side will be quite clean from the hot exhaust burning everything off and you should hope that your intake side is clean, otherwise you need a new air filter.

-Ian

Ski

After calling the person who designs the engines for MasterCraft, Malibu, and other Indmar engine spec'd by a boat manufacturer, I had a ticking noise in my boat the other day that had popped up about two times, each time the boat ticked and idled like $hit. I could turn it off, start it again and it would go away - lifter I said. After describing the problem to him, he had heard of it just like I described it, more than likely a lifter was getting sticky or not pumping up all the way. He recommended the Sea Foam (before replacing the lifters) in the gas and about a pint in the oil, drive the boat just to warm it up, put it on the trailer and change the oil. The remaining Sea Foam, two cans, were put into the gas tank. I ran the boat all over the lake, part throttle, full throttle; it was silky smooth after the initial smoke and coughing associated through a vac line, I ran 1/2 of a tank out of it and it never once made that sound again. I would not leave it in the oil but a warm up cycle is not going to hurt the engine.

Eyal 951

yea, your supposed to change the oil after. I wouldn;t run it more then 10-50 miles in the oil. it REALLY cleans it up inside the motor!
~Eyal

theedge

Done it with a friend on an F150, Toyota Tercel, and a Toyota Celica.

The Tercel smoked out his neighborhood, that little engine had loads of carbon in it. All ran better after it was done, just according to instructions. IIRC you suck in 3/4 of the bottle with the engine running, then the last of it FAST letting the engine stall. Let sit for 15 minutes, start er up.

Actually, we used GM Clean (Kleen?) which worked well too. Only for combustion chambers though.