I need to replace my front shocks, probably with Koni yellows from paragon, and I would like to add some slightly stiffer springs as well, but I don't want to lower the car.

I have an 88 Turbo, can I install Turbo S springs, and how much stiffer would they be, if any?

If they are stiffer and maintain stock height, does anyone have any extras lying around they would like to sell?

Thanks, Ian

 

I have the whole strut assemblies off my '89 with the yellow Konis and height adjustable springs. I could probably even dig up the upper mounts so you could just bolt them in. I don't know what the going price for those is, but I'm tired of stepping over them in the garage and I'm willing to make a deal. Heck, I'll sell you the rear torsion bars while you are at it. :-)

West

 

Ok, that sounds like a good plan. Send me an IM or an email and we can try to figure out a price.

Can anyone confirm that the swap will work without problems? And will I need his upper mounts?

-Ian

 

Upper mounts should be the same. The 'S' springs were wide at the top and tapered down where they sat on the adjustable collar on the strut. Direct bolt on for you.

 

I have the same setup as West I'm trying to sell. The problem with used struts/shocks is that you never know if they are better what you already have. Yeah, they are Koni's, but from 1989!!!! I'd certainly say they need to be rebuilt for best results or an even noticable difference

 

Thats a good point Mike. It may depend on mileage as well. My stock shocks have 114k on them, which is apparently too much. I'm not sure how much mileage yours and West's have.

I'm hoping that if they were good when taken off the car they'll be good for a while more, but that may not be true.

Koni rebuilds cost around $100/each, correct?

Are the yellows different from the M030 option on the TurboS? Most of the information I've found talks about the M030's.

-Ian

 

You may already be aware, but the Koni Sport option for your strut is the 8641-1414S (cut-and-drill install) [$324/set]. To increase the spring rate but keep stock ride height you have two options - use the lowering sport springs (200 or 250 rate) and add in the 1" spacers (overall lowers only 1/4") [$153-162 complete], or, use the adjustable ride height kit with choice of spring rate (you have the option to lower or not, and, have the ability to properly corner balance) [$240 complete]. The 8040-1035S rear shock is the match for the 1414S front.

As you can already see below here, the 951S springs will not fit your standard struts. Further, they are only marginally stiffer (~20#). So, the other popular option is to simply use the complete 951S strut+spring. Since it's likely a rebuild will be in order, we suggest you have them done with slightly higher valving and made double adjustable [$350/set + 2-way shipping and wait time]. You can also add the adjustable ride height kit to this setup with choice of spring rate [still $240 complete]. However, once you go to this trouble in the front, there is no good match for the rear unless you go with the Koni Cup style coil-over (matched valving, height and double adjustable) [$895 complete].

 

Closer to $130/each AFAIK.

The 8641-1414S (insert) and the OE 951S M030 Koni Sports are nearly identical.

 

Thanks for all the information Skip. I was considering asking you all the questions you just answered The koni sport inserts were what I originally had in mind, and when I first asked about TurboS springs I thought they might be a direct swap for my current springs.

It seems the TurboS suspension is only a worthwhile change if the shocks don't need to be rebuilt(questionable at this age) or they are very reasonably priced and I wanted to rebuild them to be double adjustable?

If Mike and West would like to email or PM me an asking price and the miles on the shocks and spring setup, that would help my decision a lot. I would still have some interest in buying a TurboS setup with some good left in the shocks, then upgrading them to double adjustable in another 20k miles.

Thanks, Ian

 

The DA feature is just a suggestion based on the rarity of these units. But, if you're not interested in tracking the car, there's little use to going this far. Standard rebuilds on them and matching rears (8040-1038S) is probably the most bang for the buck. Cheaper and easier is the 8641-1414S inserts.

 

I'm not planning on tracking the car immediately, maybe ever, so sticking with the inserts is probably a better option overall.

Is upgrading the springs worthwhile for a pure street car, or would I be better off saving the money for a pair of 968 MO30 sway bars? The car feels fairly soft now, but I think my shocks are pretty far gone, so its hard for me to judge how it'll feel with new shocks.

I'm only getting a finger of wheelwell gap on the driver's front side and a finger and a half on the passenger's side, which I'm hoping is due to tired shocks, but I was a bit concerned that the springs started to sag, in which case I'd need new springs anyway.

-Ian

 

It's more like $140 per strut plus parts. Look at a total of $350-$400 with shipping and everything else.

 

FWIW, it seems that upgraded sway bars are a good solution fora street-only performance upgrade. To a degree you get the best of both worlds, the equivalent of stiffer springs when turning since the bigger bars use the car's own weight to resist body roll....but without the obvious penalty of rougher riding stiffer springs when not turning.

As is posted often here, upgraded bars and new shocks really help a car when it is driven under the limit. The extreme measures of modern ultra-stiff competition suspensions and the need to balance the front and rear in terms of stiffness and roll resistance only come into play as being important as the car nears the tires' tractive limits.

 

Sorry Ian,
my struts sold today

 

sways will net you more bang for buck, unless you are willing to do the t-bars.

New konis will transform the ride. It should be pretty dramatic.

Springs can and do sag with age. Unfortunately, the lowest rate you'll find in the aftermarket spring is 200. It doesn't throw off balance too far, especially if you add adjustable sway bars (specifically, the rear - as in 19mm 968 M030 type). 200 is still very streetable - most folks start to complain around 300-350.

Good Luck!