MAF, Turbo, SMT5, Adj. FPR - For Sale
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I'd like to sell the MAF kit by itself or as apackage with the turbo and SMT5. This is what I have:
1) Autothority MAF with added temp compensation from factory sensor, chips for a K27.
2) K27/6 turbo.
3) SMT5 from Vitesse, installed and plugged into laptop once to make sure it was working, never tuned.
The MAF and turbo have about 15K miles on them and work great. Often driven daily in the hot or cold. As you probably know Autothority dials in a fairly conservative (safe) tune. I have dyno'ed this setup twice (2 years apart) at the boost I always run which is 17 psi in the mid range tapering to 14.5 at redline. 4 runs showed Horsepower at 272, 273, 276, 282 and torque at 292, 299, 304, 308. That's less than 5% difference on 2 different dynojets 2 years apart. There's room for improvement here by tuning the SMT5, I just haven't had time. I also like to judge spoolup time by seeing when the torque curve crosses 200 ft-lbs, my setup always hits this by 2750-2800. The only thing I've seen better is a stock K26/6 with boost control, and just barely...
This is what I'm looking at, MAF (w/ new K&N) and chips - $800 OBO.
or MAF, turbo, and SMT5 - $1800 OBO
I also have a Bell Engineering adj. FPR, this is the best you can buy, adjustable for both initial pressure and rate of rise, the only one like that. Would be great for the LR fuel rail as it requires a remote mount. New $300. - $200 OBO.
I can attach some pics and dynos no later than Monday. I also may not be able to check Rennlist/emails regularly over the weekend if you have any questions but I will get to them. Thanks.
1) Autothority MAF with added temp compensation from factory sensor, chips for a K27.
2) K27/6 turbo.
3) SMT5 from Vitesse, installed and plugged into laptop once to make sure it was working, never tuned.
The MAF and turbo have about 15K miles on them and work great. Often driven daily in the hot or cold. As you probably know Autothority dials in a fairly conservative (safe) tune. I have dyno'ed this setup twice (2 years apart) at the boost I always run which is 17 psi in the mid range tapering to 14.5 at redline. 4 runs showed Horsepower at 272, 273, 276, 282 and torque at 292, 299, 304, 308. That's less than 5% difference on 2 different dynojets 2 years apart. There's room for improvement here by tuning the SMT5, I just haven't had time. I also like to judge spoolup time by seeing when the torque curve crosses 200 ft-lbs, my setup always hits this by 2750-2800. The only thing I've seen better is a stock K26/6 with boost control, and just barely...
This is what I'm looking at, MAF (w/ new K&N) and chips - $800 OBO.
or MAF, turbo, and SMT5 - $1800 OBO
I also have a Bell Engineering adj. FPR, this is the best you can buy, adjustable for both initial pressure and rate of rise, the only one like that. Would be great for the LR fuel rail as it requires a remote mount. New $300. - $200 OBO.
I can attach some pics and dynos no later than Monday. I also may not be able to check Rennlist/emails regularly over the weekend if you have any questions but I will get to them. Thanks.
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Thanks Kevin, the price just went up! ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Jeremy, I think it more valuable as a package but I'll see what kind of interest there is for the parts, etc.
Thanks,
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Jeremy, I think it more valuable as a package but I'll see what kind of interest there is for the parts, etc.
Thanks,
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Tx, the chips are from Autothority's custom shop for a K27, but because these chips are for stock injectors I personally believe they would probably work better with a K26. The K27 can more air and these chips will max out the stock injectors near redline to keep up. That's why I think they'd be fine with a K26 running about 16-17 psi in the midrange and tappering back to 14-15 at redline depending what the dyno or wideband would show for A/F ratio near redline. I do not have the original banjo bolt restrictor but that's not a good boost controller anyway, you'd be better off with a manual or electronic controller. Hope that helps.
Andy
Andy