Finally got to the street legally! I put the car to my name on friday and finally put on the window sticker thing! Hung out on sunday all night with my wife around the city and boy does it FEEL GREAT! Just in case, FYI, i fixed my hesitation problems at WOT. I did not remember I had set the boost cut off feature of my E-boost so low. It was simply going to half the set boost when it got to the cut-off boost setpoint. You just gotta love that thing.

Anyways, back to it... My 951 has a Momo wheel installed on it with the horn wiring disconnected. I know stock wheels have a collar type connector for the stock steering wheel horn instead of a cable running through it. I imagine it was thrown away a long time ago.

Does anybody have a good suggestion to making the horn functional. I tried doing the wire through the wheel adapter hole thing, with some extra length of wire, but it peeled the cable. Did not last one day.

 

I'm going to take the easy way out and adding a switch to the console and connect the horn through that. Since mine is a track car and I rarely use the horn, location isn't too important.

 

I have a Momo. Maybe it's different with an airbag car but on mine there was a single wire that went to a male spade terminal on the back of the stock wheel. When that wire is earthed the horn sounds. On the Momo you connect that wire to one terminal on the back of the button, then another wire (suppled with the wheel) goes from the other terminal to a thin metal ring (also supplied by Momo) that sits between the wheel and the boss. Because the ring is against the boss it is earthed so all the button does when you push it is connect the two terminals internally so completing the circuit from the stock wire to earth.

 

I posted a similar question a couple days ago on the racing forum w/no response. I wanted the slinky cord like on cell phones but I wanted quick release wiring becuase I'll be removing the wheel often.

 

I can't comment on hom the QR boss works but I imagine the piece on the wheel has a couple of contacts matched by contacts on the boss piece.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by slinky cord but I'm thinking that is for something completely different like a digital display on the wheel of a race car with very quick steering rack so it doesn't get twisted around too much.

 

[Quote}I have a Momo. Maybe it's different with an airbag car but on mine there was a single wire that went to a male spade terminal on the back of the stock wheel. When that wire is earthed the horn sounds. On the Momo you connect that wire to one terminal on the back of the button, then another wire (suppled with the wheel) goes from the other terminal to a thin metal ring (also supplied by Momo) that sits between the wheel and the boss. Because the ring is against the boss it is earthed so all the button does when you push it is connect the two terminals internally so completing the circuit from the stock wire to earth.[QUOTE]

So, do you have some extra cable length behind the wheel in order to let the cable wind while turning?
I had it connected to the male spade behind the horn button, but the steering wheel adapter hole apparently peels the cable rubber causing the horn to sound when I turned. Maybe I'll try smoothing the adapter hole and puting on a rubber protector. Thanks

 

I have an OMP wheel with a quick release. Horn still fully functional. Some quick releases carry the horn circuit through to the wheel.
You can see one terminal of the horn connection at around 6 o'clock on the raised center section of the disconnect. The other is on the top, just out of frame. The wheel-mounted section has matching terminals, and a flying lead for the horm button on the wheel itself.

 

There are two wires. One was stock on my car and there is sufficient length for it to reach the horn button on the Momo. The other was supplied with the wheel and it goes from the button to the metal ring that was supplied with the boss. Both ends of that second one rotate with the wheel.

I honestly can't remember how the other end of the brown stock wire is connected (I didn't actually look) but it is the one that has to cope with the wheel turning and it had to do that with the stock wheel also.

 

Ooops, don't know what made me think you had a quick release! Sorry.
Not sure why the hot lead from the stock wheel is being chafed by the Momo adaptor. It should run through the adaptor onto the spade on the Momo without a problem. There must be something else going on here to cause it to fail due to chafing in less than a day. If its that bad, it should be obvious.

 

It was my bad... ...did the wheel fast and forgot to properly install the wire to the horn... All you need to do is use a longer wire since the one in the car is too short to use with the Momo wheel... put some protective shield around it to avoid the turns from damaging the wire and you are done...