Just got the car back from the shop.

They had the intake off, and the guy said one of the injector wires had shorted to the block (someone had cut into it), but he insulated it, and it started fine.

They replaced the brake booster and the clutch MC.

Car runs fine.

Vacuum and boost levels normal. Car actually feels a bit zippier.

However: My A/F gauge (modified to only read 0.7-1.0V) isn't showing me running rich (>0.7V) when I'm on the throttle. In fact, I can't get it to spoike even when I blip the throttle at idle.

I checked the wiring to the gauge - I'm getting a bouncing signal (Above and below 0.45V) at idle.

I disconnected the O2 sensor, car richened up, read 0.8V at the sensor and the correct light lit up on the gauge.

Conclusion 1: Gauge is working.

What could be causing it to run lean(er than it used to) under hard throttle, but idle correctly ?

I'm not throwing the TPS code, but I think that's the next thing I'll try.

I can feel all 4 injectors pulsing at idle.

Any suggestions ? I need to get it working for the track this weekend

Thanks,
Mike.

 

When I disconnect the TPS, the idle jumps to about 2000, and it throws the correct code.

 

what a/f ratios do those voltages correspond to?

 

Well, comparing against dyno numbers, I ran about probably 0.9V at <10:1, and about 0.8 at about 12:1. 0.7 should correspond to about stoich.

Basically it's indicating that I'm never getting above 12 or 13:1

 

Well, I was able to ?fix? the problem thanks to my training in computer science. I unplugged the battery, left it like that for 2 hours, and it worked fine. I also re-connected the CV. I'm not sure if that played a part.