llf264

I've read a bunch about control arms for years now... and this may be my frugal side talking but the rubber and material on this arm look very good, I'm curious what your thoughts are about the integrity of the ball socket on this most recent ebay purchase. Picuture attached.

Also, how much play should there be between the caster block connection rod and it's hole in the Control Arm?

Many Thanks,
Larron L Fritz
'86 951

testarossa_td

Flip it over and take a picture.

llf264

Boot has a medium sized tear in it. The actual dent is a little less than 3 cm wide x 1cm high...

tifosiman

That's a weird dent. Looks like it was dropped while off the car?

Anyway, those photos are inconclusive. If it were me, I would remove the balljoint and inspect the cup and the area around it. Look for any cracks or damage inside the cup from play, or signs that the pin has smacked the outside of the lip (under the rubber boot). Then order a rebuild kit from Rennbay or equivalent, and rebuild it if the arm is OK. It is always a good idea to put a new pin in anyway. That is cheap insurance while you already have an arm that is off the car.

Don't forget to check the rest of the arm for any cracks or signs or damage, particularly where the sway bar mount goes.

In regards to play where the pin for the caster block goes, I don't have an exact answer for you. I don't think there should be any play at all, it should be a fairly snug fit (should slide in by hand, and allow for some slight rotational movement, but no side-to-side play).

z3bra

I'd be concerned if that dent will allow the ball joint to be removed, it may need to be machined out back to round on the inside diameter.

I agree with tifosman too, there should be no play on the caster block pin, just a smooth pivoting action of the pin in the block. That said, what's the condition of the block itself that you're using for reference? Might not hurt to get them both mic'd and see what the difference is compared to a new block and new pin (or even another pin on another arm) if you have access to one to see how much wear has occurred.

If you're worried about cracks, how about getting it zyglo'd or even X-rayed? With them already off the car it probably wouldn't cost much to get it done for the zyglo, at least and X-raying is even better if you know someone that can/will do it for you. (I'll be glad when my cousin gets out of school next year and gets his dental practice open for that little convenience).

Peckster

To test the ball joint you have to compress it into the joint with some really big channelocks, or a vice or something, there shouldn't be much play.

llf264

Assuming the arm on my car currently is good structurally, I was hoping to use the pressed bushings off this one and the swing arm pivot as they look great... I can get a ball joint kit and rebuild the old arm. Do you have any reccomendations on who has the best ball joint kit out there? If need be I can turn down the caster pin and sleeve it to size. Play insde that arm just didnt' seem right to me either.

Has anyone successfully pulled the big bushings for re-use by heating the arm?

I haven't inspected the old blocks yet. Kind of considering my options at this point.

Travis - sflraver

From the pictures the dent looks like it is restricted to below the actual pocket. You will have to remove the snap ring to find out for sure though.

The big bushings cannot be reused. There is no way to pull them out without first ripping away the insides and then prying/pushing the metal sleeves out. Word on the street is, "someone" may be making a bushing kit for the arms that lets you keep the metal sleeves in the arm but that's just hearsay for now.

As for the best ball joint kit, I would tell you but my opinion may be a little biased.