92mm Stroker Crank
08-24-2005, 01:38 AM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: NY
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
92mm Stroker Crank
I was reading about stroker crank, and came across the Broadfoot Racing 92mm stroker crank. Has anyone used or is using this crank? Does anyone have any information they can share about this crank?
08-24-2005, 03:13 AM
#2
Race Director
Broadfoot are a very well respected engine buliding shop and I have dealt with Kelli on several occasions, very professional place. You need to find out abot knife, polishing, balancing etc...
08-24-2005, 06:23 PM
#3
Addict
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
92mm is reached by weldiding on additional metal, then machining and nitriding the crank. They add metal, then take it away. I'm not at all a fan of the idea. He didn't do his 3.2 l with bore, but with additional stroke. IE 92 mm X 104mm.
08-24-2005, 06:44 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
What length connecting rod needs to be used with them? Do you need pistons with a raised wrist pin? What is the Rod to stroke ratio? Does the block and oil pan need to be machined?
Those are a few of the questions I would ask Broadfoot.
If this is for a race engine, the above will probably not matter. But for a street engine, it may not be worth all the extra effort.
I'm not cutting down on anyone, just some people reading this tread may not know that you can't increase the throw of a crankshaft without changing a lot of other parts.
Those are a few of the questions I would ask Broadfoot.
If this is for a race engine, the above will probably not matter. But for a street engine, it may not be worth all the extra effort.
I'm not cutting down on anyone, just some people reading this tread may not know that you can't increase the throw of a crankshaft without changing a lot of other parts.
08-25-2005, 01:31 AM
#6
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: NY
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From my readings the stroking of the stock crank aka "offset grinding" is a popular option among American and Japanese car tuners. The rod ratio, bringing the piston back to deck height, and block/oil pan clearances are some of the issues that will definitely need to be worked out.
However, my main concern is how durable is the welding on the crank, will it separate from the original crank material over time, can the crank/welding handle the high stress of a typical 2.5L or 3.0L engine?
However, my main concern is how durable is the welding on the crank, will it separate from the original crank material over time, can the crank/welding handle the high stress of a typical 2.5L or 3.0L engine?
08-25-2005, 09:43 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Edmonton
Posts: 1,043
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
From a metallurgy standpoint if the welding is not done exactly right it will crack far sooner than a non welded crank. if done exactly right it may last as long as the stock crank. Anytime you weld on a highly stressed component you will potentially weaken it. If the metallurgy on our cranks is a low alloy steel then you have a higher probability of success. If it is an alloy steel with high carbon for extra strength then doing it right requires preheat, interpass and postheat control to do it correctly. I'll take my cranks in the as forged condition if at all possible and not worry about the extra decimal places of displacement achieved with the extra long stroke.
