Stock 951 failed CA emissions
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Since I had a stock 951, I assumed I wouldn't have any emissions problems, but I was wrong. I just bought the car and when I looked back at the last smog test, the car failed the first time in the same way, but when I asked what they changed, they just said 'gas cap', which also failed. This time my gas cap passed, but here were the numbers:
15mph, 1566 RPM, CO2 14.5%, O2 0.42%
HC Max 118, Avg 31, Me 145 (failed)
CO Max 0.75, Avg 0.1, Me 0.45%
NO Max 799, Avg 237, Me 1058ppm(failed)
I passed the 30mph test, by about 40%, but the number are still worse than the average by about a factor of 2.
The operator said he thought the car was misfiring on the 15mph test. I'm not sure if thats because of what he heard, and instrument he had, or looking at the test results. I can't remember now, but I think he may have turned on the fan between tests or right before the 15mph test, so maybe the car was overheating a bit?
What are the best things to change to make the car run better and pass emissions? I would prefer to pass by a decent margin than just scrape by.
Info about the car:
- I just did a pressure test and only found one leak, which was very small, in the vacuum temp sensor. I doubt thats the issue here.
- My motor mounts need to be replaced, but I don't see why that would effect my emissions.
- I pulled my plugs and I'll attach a picture in the next post. I cleaned them off and put them back in for now. Maybe I'm running a bit lean? Also, the pistons looked quite black, but I don't know how much carbon buildup is normal on these cars.
- My interior volt gauge read 13v for the first few minutes, but seems to settle down to just over 12v after driving for a while. Problem?
- My reference sensor connector is broken and being held together with a rubber band, but feels secure.
- My car doesn't seem to hit full boost according to the stock gauge. I believe its getting to around 1.6 bar absolute, but I try not to stare down while accelerating full tilt. Since I've pressure tested it, I think this is due to the stock wastegate.
Some ideas of mine:
1) New plugs - which ones?
2) New O2 sensor - better mixture accuracy?
3) Cleaned/new ground wires - better spark, less chance of misfire, more voltage?
4) Injector/combustion cleaner - I have some BG44k.
5) Fuel filter - I have one, it was replaced 11k miles ago
6) Wastegate - I think its leaky - shim or replace(Tial)
To make all this worse, I just bought the car, and I'm supposed to have a valid smog by tomorrow in order to register it without penalty![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Thanks, Ian
15mph, 1566 RPM, CO2 14.5%, O2 0.42%
HC Max 118, Avg 31, Me 145 (failed)
CO Max 0.75, Avg 0.1, Me 0.45%
NO Max 799, Avg 237, Me 1058ppm(failed)
I passed the 30mph test, by about 40%, but the number are still worse than the average by about a factor of 2.
The operator said he thought the car was misfiring on the 15mph test. I'm not sure if thats because of what he heard, and instrument he had, or looking at the test results. I can't remember now, but I think he may have turned on the fan between tests or right before the 15mph test, so maybe the car was overheating a bit?
What are the best things to change to make the car run better and pass emissions? I would prefer to pass by a decent margin than just scrape by.
Info about the car:
- I just did a pressure test and only found one leak, which was very small, in the vacuum temp sensor. I doubt thats the issue here.
- My motor mounts need to be replaced, but I don't see why that would effect my emissions.
- I pulled my plugs and I'll attach a picture in the next post. I cleaned them off and put them back in for now. Maybe I'm running a bit lean? Also, the pistons looked quite black, but I don't know how much carbon buildup is normal on these cars.
- My interior volt gauge read 13v for the first few minutes, but seems to settle down to just over 12v after driving for a while. Problem?
- My reference sensor connector is broken and being held together with a rubber band, but feels secure.
- My car doesn't seem to hit full boost according to the stock gauge. I believe its getting to around 1.6 bar absolute, but I try not to stare down while accelerating full tilt. Since I've pressure tested it, I think this is due to the stock wastegate.
Some ideas of mine:
1) New plugs - which ones?
2) New O2 sensor - better mixture accuracy?
3) Cleaned/new ground wires - better spark, less chance of misfire, more voltage?
4) Injector/combustion cleaner - I have some BG44k.
5) Fuel filter - I have one, it was replaced 11k miles ago
6) Wastegate - I think its leaky - shim or replace(Tial)
To make all this worse, I just bought the car, and I'm supposed to have a valid smog by tomorrow in order to register it without penalty
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
Thanks, Ian
Last edited by IanS; 08-09-2005 at 08:13 PM. Reason: Adding wastegate comments
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If car was not hot (running for 30 minutes) before testing it could cause it to fail. If car was hot and it failed, I would first check all intake fittings for any leakages, change oil, and reinspect. If you can get O2 sensor off easily would include that too. Good luck.
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Someone had used bailing wire, which wasn't working well. My elastic band was an upgrade. Basically the male part of the connector is half as long as it should be. I want to replace it at soon, but based on past smog reports, it looks like this car has been on the verge of failing for a while, but maybe it is causing misfires?
Here is a picture of the plugs.
Here is a picture of the plugs.
Last edited by IanS; 08-09-2005 at 06:20 PM. Reason: Adding 2nd pic
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Originally Posted by EdC
In CA isn't it the Seller's responsibility to pass smog in order to sell it?
I warmed up the car for about 15 minutes, which may not have been enough. When I go back, I'll do an hour. But that seems more like a band-aid than a real fix, since 15 minutes should be enough for the car to mostly reach operating temp.
It does appear I may be able to transfer the car without smog, but I will still need smog to complete the transfer and register it.
Thanks for all the suggestions already, Ian
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I asked about that, since I'm sure it would have pased in 1st. He said that the computer specified what gear to test in and that unless the car had non-stock gearing, they had to test in the specified gear or they could get in trouble.
-Ian
-Ian
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http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm#BM2535
When a car is sold, who is responsible for the inspection?
The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
The inspection is not required on a transfer if a biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
Why not check it's smog inspection history:
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx
When a car is sold, who is responsible for the inspection?
The seller is required to provide the buyer with a valid smog inspection certification at the time of the sale or transfer. Smog certifications are good for 90 days from the date of issuance.
The inspection is not required on a transfer if a biennial smog certification was submitted to DMV within 90 days prior to the vehicle transfer date (a vehicle inspection report may be required for proof of certification).
Why not check it's smog inspection history:
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/vehtests/pubtstqry.aspx
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Thanks, I guess I should be in contact with the seller again. It would have been wise of me to resolve this when I purchased the car as a condition of sale, but I've never had a hard time smogging a vehicle, so I had no reason to think it was an issue.
I actually have more history(from 91) than that website, along with the actual numbers.
BTW, that is a very sweet looking 968
I actually have more history(from 91) than that website, along with the actual numbers.
BTW, that is a very sweet looking 968
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When a used vehicle is sold in California, the seller is legally responsible for providing a smog certificate. The seller is obligated to ensure the vehicle's emission (smog) control equipment complies with the state's emission control equipment requirements. Even when a smog certificate is supplied, however, beware that you may be purchasing a vehicle that is not in compliance. It is advisable to pay for an inspection at a station of your choice as a precaution. Also, check for the underhood label showing whether the vehicle was manufactured to meet either California or U.S. emissions standards. For more information on smog requirements, call the California Department of Consumer Affairs toll-free telephone number, (800) 952-5210 (Local Number: (916) 445-1254), and request a free copy of Smog Equipment Requirements for Used Vehicles. Note: waiver or hardship extensions are not granted when a smog certificate is required for change of ownership.
Thanks for the bit on the car, too bad it currently looks like hell.
Thanks for the bit on the car, too bad it currently looks like hell.
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I hope the car wasn't stolen. I once had a MR2 stolen and months later it was recovered. The "new owner" had received a fake title even thought the VIN came back as a hit for a stolen vehicle when the CHP stopped the car for switched plates. CHP returned the car to me. The "new owner" had no car nor $$$.
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I highly doubt the car was stolen. I have copies of titles from the last two owners and all the maintenance records since 2000 and the original window sticker from when the car was sold(complete with mileage and options). And the car was inspected by the local porsche dealer, Rusnak, but not smogged.
The seller has moved to Hawaii, so getting a smog certificate out of them could be a challenge from a practical perspective. They were under the impression that since they were smogged less than 2 years ago, they wouldn't have to redo it until the next registration came around, and I believed them, having never bought a used car in California.
So at this point, I think its wiser to focus on practical advice of things I can fix than trying to persue what are technically my legal rights.
Thanks, Ian
The seller has moved to Hawaii, so getting a smog certificate out of them could be a challenge from a practical perspective. They were under the impression that since they were smogged less than 2 years ago, they wouldn't have to redo it until the next registration came around, and I believed them, having never bought a used car in California.
So at this point, I think its wiser to focus on practical advice of things I can fix than trying to persue what are technically my legal rights.
Thanks, Ian
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1: fix the reference sensors right away. if they get loose you will be stranded unless you can fix them roadside - NOT something you want to happen at night!!!! They are finicky little buggers and you may as well get new ones in there if you can before the old ones go bad from age.
2: get new plugs
3: dump a ****load of fuel injector cleaner in there, and run it thru a 1/2 tank of gas, make sure it mixes
4: get a new 02 sensor (will make a huge difference! my mpg went from 16 to 25 just from a new o2 sensor!!!)
5: drive the SNOT out of the car before taking it to emiss testing. Get the CAT glowing red hot, it will be way more effective and can make the difference between a pass and fail!!
6: fill it up with high octane gas.. burns cleaner. (according to some of the petrol companies..)
2: get new plugs
3: dump a ****load of fuel injector cleaner in there, and run it thru a 1/2 tank of gas, make sure it mixes
4: get a new 02 sensor (will make a huge difference! my mpg went from 16 to 25 just from a new o2 sensor!!!)
5: drive the SNOT out of the car before taking it to emiss testing. Get the CAT glowing red hot, it will be way more effective and can make the difference between a pass and fail!!
6: fill it up with high octane gas.. burns cleaner. (according to some of the petrol companies..)