What can I do to clean up this cylinder head? Change guides, seals, and springs?
#16
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Originally Posted by macnewma
Streck, who are you using locally? How is good old Bob doing btw?
Right after telling him that I was looking to have the head done after losing the HG, he asked if I put chips in. I told that the chips were installed before I bought the car 5 years ago. He then goes into this speech about how bad chips are and that my chips caused the the HG to go and these cars are not good on our crappy 94 octane...yada, yada, yada.
15 minutes later I managed to learn that he doesn't do head work in house.
#17
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Originally Posted by streckfu's951
Seems to be doing well. He did a great job with my belts and changed my oil cooler lines a few months ago.
Right after telling him that I was looking to have the head done after losing the HG, he asked if I put chips in. I told that the chips were installed before I bought the car 5 years ago. He then goes into this speech about how bad chips are and that my chips caused the the HG to go and these cars are not good on our crappy 94 octane...yada, yada, yada.
15 minutes later I managed to learn that he doesn't do head work in house.
Right after telling him that I was looking to have the head done after losing the HG, he asked if I put chips in. I told that the chips were installed before I bought the car 5 years ago. He then goes into this speech about how bad chips are and that my chips caused the the HG to go and these cars are not good on our crappy 94 octane...yada, yada, yada.
15 minutes later I managed to learn that he doesn't do head work in house.
#18
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His pitch is that we should be running stock boost. He also thinks lots of chips go lean. I don't think he is familiar with the latest round of chips which are IMO better. He also claims that for higher boost we should run race fuel because of the higher combustion chambers on the track.
I think he has probably fixed alot of cars running APE chips with a jetted banjo that is spiking to 20psi and going lean. Most people now have better wastegates, boost controllers and chips.
He basically told me that if I want to run higher than stock boost I should use race gas. I think it can be a band aid to a problem that can be solved in other ways though.
Oh and he isn't the standalone type. His specialty is super high HP carburated early 911s run in SCCA GT and Trans Am classes. I guess his cars are pretty successful.
Daniel, you didn't say which shop is doing your head work.
I think he has probably fixed alot of cars running APE chips with a jetted banjo that is spiking to 20psi and going lean. Most people now have better wastegates, boost controllers and chips.
He basically told me that if I want to run higher than stock boost I should use race gas. I think it can be a band aid to a problem that can be solved in other ways though.
Oh and he isn't the standalone type. His specialty is super high HP carburated early 911s run in SCCA GT and Trans Am classes. I guess his cars are pretty successful.
Daniel, you didn't say which shop is doing your head work.
#19
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The easyest way I found to clean the valves and combustion chamber is to use some gasket remover.
Basically a paint stripper in a spray can. you can surely find it in a local autoparts store.
A little spray, a little hand brushing rince it off, and voila!
Does a fantastic job on pistons also with out the risk of scratching them.
The seals are easy enough to change, just check out the price of a decent C type spring compressor and compare it to what the machine shop would charge. you may only be saving a few dollars.
Cheers
Philippe
Basically a paint stripper in a spray can. you can surely find it in a local autoparts store.
A little spray, a little hand brushing rince it off, and voila!
Does a fantastic job on pistons also with out the risk of scratching them.
The seals are easy enough to change, just check out the price of a decent C type spring compressor and compare it to what the machine shop would charge. you may only be saving a few dollars.
Cheers
Philippe
#20
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Originally Posted by macnewma
His pitch is that we should be running stock boost. He also thinks lots of chips go lean. I don't think he is familiar with the latest round of chips which are IMO better. He also claims that for higher boost we should run race fuel because of the higher combustion chambers on the track.
Daniel, you didn't say which shop is doing your head work.
Mattingly in Greenfield. Just down the road from Bob. I can't find a phone book listing....
#23
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Damn, $150-200 for a local shop to do what appears to be the same work as shops like Lindsey Racing charge $500 for what appears to be the exact same thing.
Am I missing something here?
Am I missing something here?
#24
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Originally Posted by macnewma
Damn, $150-200 for a local shop to do what appears to be the same work as shops like Lindsey Racing charge $500 for what appears to be the exact same thing.
Am I missing something here?
Am I missing something here?
Disclaimer: All quotes by vendors are examples only. Contact them regarding pricing for your needs.
While shopping around, I looked at Lindsey, Vitesse, Memphis Motorworks, and Heritage in Tampa.
All of the quotes ranged from a low of $499 to $850. All of the shops are very familiar with Porsche so maybe part of the price is the experience while another part could be specialized equipment. I don't know.
The local shop is charging $50 to clean the head and true the gasket surface, $50 to replace the guides, and $50 for the valve job (valve and seat).
#26
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Originally Posted by macnewma
Do you know if it is a 3 angle or 5 angle valve job?
3 angle. The 5 angle is $22 more. Which I'll proably spring for.
The only thing missing from this local shops service is pressure testing the head after assembly. They leak check which, I know, is not ideal.
#27
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EBS in Reno did everything on mine for 348.00 including the surfacing which was 80.00 on its own. I provided new valve springs and they concurred that the springs usually lose significant seat pressure by 80k, of course that also varies depending on how hard you flog your motor.
I removed all of the valves and reassembled before I took it in to check the condition and to make sure I didnt get ripped off.
Since you are on the east coast shipping may be a significant cost.
They were very professional, and the head looked brand new.
good luck
I removed all of the valves and reassembled before I took it in to check the condition and to make sure I didnt get ripped off.
Since you are on the east coast shipping may be a significant cost.
They were very professional, and the head looked brand new.
good luck
#28
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H2O pumper, how long ago did you get your head done at EBS? I am seriously looking at them to perform some work on my 951 head. Do you get the stock rebuild or did you go a performance route. I was leaning toward thier 5 angle valve job or their 5 angle + port smoothing and Thermal Barrier Coat in the combustion chambers and valve faces.
#29
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Originally Posted by streckfu's951
15 minutes later I managed to learn that he doesn't do head work in house.
#30
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Originally Posted by Peckster
Most repair shops send head work to a machine shop that specializes in it.
I was commenting on Bob Farmer's unique ability to give answers to questions that are measured in historical lengths of time.