Working DIY MAF
07-27-2005, 07:50 AM
#16
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by hally
whats your user 1 voltage over on the RHS / high RPMS where it has flatlined ?
No , I dont have the 70mm P/N. Just look for a Mustang MAF on ebay and you will see tons. Some years have a flange mount, stay away from those.
07-27-2005, 10:26 AM
#18
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Slightly, you are right, I found this one with the connector real cheap so I figured I'd test with it. I may go up to a 70 or 75 mm when I build the new pipe to relocate it behind the headlight.
here are a couple of pictures.
here are a couple of pictures.
07-27-2005, 09:49 PM
#19
Race Car
Interesting!!
Mind if I ask you what the Pro-M cost you? How easy was it to use?
I've considered a DIY MAF kit for quite a while, but I am still having programming issues with my PIC programmer, every now and then it messes up the program when it writes it, etc, so I haven't made any progress on mine
Honestly, I would use the 70mm MAF, but I completely see your reason for what you did, and I applaud you for your efforts!!
I had no idea the ford MAF's were voltage output, a friend told me they were frequency output, so I steered clear of them...
Mind if I ask you what the Pro-M cost you? How easy was it to use?
I've considered a DIY MAF kit for quite a while, but I am still having programming issues with my PIC programmer, every now and then it messes up the program when it writes it, etc, so I haven't made any progress on mine
Honestly, I would use the 70mm MAF, but I completely see your reason for what you did, and I applaud you for your efforts!!
I had no idea the ford MAF's were voltage output, a friend told me they were frequency output, so I steered clear of them...
07-27-2005, 10:11 PM
#20
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I picked it up used for $150, normally they are $300. I like its simplicity and that you can quickly tune it via the 4 pots. If you wanted more features, the split second PSC1 is a good choice.
That was what I was going to do with.
http://www.urdusa.com/Merchant2/merc...ory_Code=SPLIT
I'm telling ya, this is a lot easier to do than you think. I have had this running all week in 100 degree weather and its been fine. I am interested to see how it starts in real cold weather. By then I will have it relocated and plan on adding a temp sensor. The MAF input voltage never reaches 5 v so I dont think I'm maxing it out, any larger of a turbo and it would.
That was what I was going to do with.
http://www.urdusa.com/Merchant2/merc...ory_Code=SPLIT
I'm telling ya, this is a lot easier to do than you think. I have had this running all week in 100 degree weather and its been fine. I am interested to see how it starts in real cold weather. By then I will have it relocated and plan on adding a temp sensor. The MAF input voltage never reaches 5 v so I dont think I'm maxing it out, any larger of a turbo and it would.
07-27-2005, 11:20 PM
#21
Race Car
Since I have no ability to dyno-tune, I need to get it as close on the first try as possible. Ideally I would set up the 2 air flow meters in series, then read both voltages at once, and do my best to max them out on a bench. Perhaps a leaf blower could do it??
Did you start with a similar approach? Or did you just bolt it in and start tuning?
Did you start with a similar approach? Or did you just bolt it in and start tuning?
07-28-2005, 07:55 AM
#23
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As far as I know, any fuel controller will work. You really should have a wide band for tuning, Thats the safest way.
In addition to the MAF, you need a pigtail with the MAF connector and a 2.2 K resistor to fix the VAF temp input. You can cut the old VAF connector off and splice it together. If you have an old VAF, like I did, then a patch cable can be made so you dont have to cut the factory connector. If people are interested, I can draw up a wiring diagram and post it.
To fit in the stock location, you need a K&N cone filter PN RU3130.
Pick up a piece 3 inch exhaust pipe and cut a piece 3 1/2 inches long and (2) 3 inch rubber couplings with clamps.
This will extend the MAF out under the intercooler outlet pipe.
I picked those up at AutoZone for $15.
It really lays in there nicely and the hood doesnt hit the filter at all.
In addition to the MAF, you need a pigtail with the MAF connector and a 2.2 K resistor to fix the VAF temp input. You can cut the old VAF connector off and splice it together. If you have an old VAF, like I did, then a patch cable can be made so you dont have to cut the factory connector. If people are interested, I can draw up a wiring diagram and post it.
To fit in the stock location, you need a K&N cone filter PN RU3130.
Pick up a piece 3 inch exhaust pipe and cut a piece 3 1/2 inches long and (2) 3 inch rubber couplings with clamps.
This will extend the MAF out under the intercooler outlet pipe.
I picked those up at AutoZone for $15.
It really lays in there nicely and the hood doesnt hit the filter at all.
07-28-2005, 02:07 PM
#24
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Its been 100 degrees here this week, AC running, rad fans on high and I have had no problems at all
A/F ratio hold fine, no change at idle when the fans kick in.
So far, no problems at all.
A/F ratio hold fine, no change at idle when the fans kick in.
So far, no problems at all.
07-28-2005, 03:39 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Cool thanks!!!! I can't wait to set it up ....have you tries to hook up the MAF sensor between the J boot and the stock Air Box ....I have a 75mm and its a little big ...
