In desperate need of a Link AFM Tuning Module in Augusta, GA
07-31-2005, 02:22 AM
#16
Drifting
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Yeah the connection on one side of the cable has a loose connection. My guess is it is at the AFMLink end not the LTM end. You may need to open up your AFMLink and resolder the solder joints that connect to the ribbon cable. You could push the connection up or down while the car is on to verify which end the problem is at. When you get it in the right spot, it should display the correct thing...
08-02-2005, 02:11 AM
#17
Burning Brakes
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Chris,
Yeah I noticed the loose connection on the cable, if I don't have the cable pushed allll the way on the connector then the Tuning Module doesn't even light up, or it only lights up half way. Unfortunately I still cannot get it to work. If I already have it plugged in when the car is turned on, then the Tuning Module turns on, displays the black squares for about 1 second then displays all blank spaces on the screen. The screen and buttons are all fully lit up.
Soooo, I took apart the Link AFM box to see if I any of the pins on the connector needed to be resoldered. Well I'm no pro at solder joints but they all looked fine to me, aka no cracks. However I did find a funny looking spot on the board that I would not mind a second opinion about. Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can enlighten me if this spot is ok or is a big problem. It does appear to have a very small amount of clear hard goo over the troubled looking solder, so maybe it is a repair. I honestly don't know, any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
John
Yeah I noticed the loose connection on the cable, if I don't have the cable pushed allll the way on the connector then the Tuning Module doesn't even light up, or it only lights up half way. Unfortunately I still cannot get it to work. If I already have it plugged in when the car is turned on, then the Tuning Module turns on, displays the black squares for about 1 second then displays all blank spaces on the screen. The screen and buttons are all fully lit up.
Soooo, I took apart the Link AFM box to see if I any of the pins on the connector needed to be resoldered. Well I'm no pro at solder joints but they all looked fine to me, aka no cracks. However I did find a funny looking spot on the board that I would not mind a second opinion about. Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can enlighten me if this spot is ok or is a big problem. It does appear to have a very small amount of clear hard goo over the troubled looking solder, so maybe it is a repair. I honestly don't know, any help is appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
John
Last edited by johne; 08-02-2005 at 02:14 AM. Reason: forgot the pictures, duh.
08-02-2005, 02:51 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
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John, I've got one sealed new in the box. I am going to the warped tour in Atlanta on Wed. I don't know if you're close to there, but LMK if you want to borrow it.
08-02-2005, 09:52 AM
#19
Racer
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I am sorry about your problem you are having with your Link MAP unit. The issue looks very familiar - something that I wasn't able to handle as well.
Link USA
1643 Monorovia Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(949) 646-7461
I suggest that you speak to Nile Harvey and continuously follow up on your unit. They have to assign you a number prior to sending your unit to them
Link USA
1643 Monorovia Avenue
Costa Mesa, CA 92627
(949) 646-7461
I suggest that you speak to Nile Harvey and continuously follow up on your unit. They have to assign you a number prior to sending your unit to them
08-02-2005, 12:14 PM
#20
Drifting
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Send it to me if anything!
But first...
Take a pencil tip soldering gun (solder pencil) and reheat all the connections to the AFM/Serial connector (the black IDC connector). Be careful not to solder two connections together. If you mess up, I can always fix it... Try that and see.
Those two joints in question have not been repaired... A lot of current passed through those joints and heated the PCB coating and messed up the traces. They are prob. fine, but if you send it to me, I can check those out too...
But first...
Take a pencil tip soldering gun (solder pencil) and reheat all the connections to the AFM/Serial connector (the black IDC connector). Be careful not to solder two connections together. If you mess up, I can always fix it... Try that and see.
Those two joints in question have not been repaired... A lot of current passed through those joints and heated the PCB coating and messed up the traces. They are prob. fine, but if you send it to me, I can check those out too...
08-02-2005, 11:49 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
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Wow Joe (BoostGuy) thanks for the generous offer. I would really like to take you up on it, so that I could know for sure that it is an issue with my Link MAP Box but I am in Augusta right now. And Augusta is about 2 hours east of Atlanta.
Ewainwright, thanks for the contact information. I am hoping that I can get the box sorted out without sending it to Link for repairs as I bought it off a fellow lister and it is *supposed* to work.
Chris (koolbeenz) wow, once again you are making a very generous offer, you are the man! If I can’t figure something else out maybe I will send it to you, I hate to inconvenience you further though.
I did some further troubleshooting with the multi-meter and it appears that all the pins on the black connector have good connections. I tested them by checking the resistance between the pin itself and the next pin on the circuit board (by following the trace on the board). I made a picture that should explain it better. All the pins showed zero resistance though. So now I don’t know what it could be.
Anyone have any more ideas?
Thanks,
John
Ewainwright, thanks for the contact information. I am hoping that I can get the box sorted out without sending it to Link for repairs as I bought it off a fellow lister and it is *supposed* to work.
Chris (koolbeenz) wow, once again you are making a very generous offer, you are the man! If I can’t figure something else out maybe I will send it to you, I hate to inconvenience you further though.
I did some further troubleshooting with the multi-meter and it appears that all the pins on the black connector have good connections. I tested them by checking the resistance between the pin itself and the next pin on the circuit board (by following the trace on the board). I made a picture that should explain it better. All the pins showed zero resistance though. So now I don’t know what it could be.
Anyone have any more ideas?
Thanks,
John
08-03-2005, 11:30 AM
#22
Drifting
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Hey John
Try to hook up the LTM again. This time, try every possible "push-pull" move to get it to work. Plug in the cable and pull down see if that does anything. Then try pulling up on the cable. Make sure the cable is pushed all the way in on the LTM. The cable I sent with the box doesn't fit the LTM too well... If you have a different cable, try that. You may want to wiggle the LTM end of the cable... Who knows that side may have a short...
Try to hook up the LTM again. This time, try every possible "push-pull" move to get it to work. Plug in the cable and pull down see if that does anything. Then try pulling up on the cable. Make sure the cable is pushed all the way in on the LTM. The cable I sent with the box doesn't fit the LTM too well... If you have a different cable, try that. You may want to wiggle the LTM end of the cable... Who knows that side may have a short...
