cpt_koolbeenz

Hey All
Does anyone know what P/N the orange seal is in the pic? I coulden't find it in PET. I plan to just use the green seal on both sides - it fits pretty snugly but I think it will work.

I was curious to see if anyone knew the # for that guy...

Thanks,

Tom M'Guinn

The official reseal kit from porsche comes with two green o-rings -- part 999 707 043 40

I used 2 green rings (and found 2 green rings on disassembly), and it seemed to work great. Might find something helpful here: http://members.rennlist.com/tom86951..._seal_repl.htm

That is the older sytle connector piece, which you need to be careful with to get fully seated in the housing.

cpt_koolbeenz

Thanks Tom-
I figured I could just use two of the green ones... But it is nice to know for sure!

z3bra

You could be even more lucky and have the even older style one like my car does that doesn't have the second o-ring groove at all. Nothing a bit of high-temp bearing and sleeve retainer couldn't seal up nicely. Has anybody else run across one like that without a second groove? I took my housing off to swap the inner one since I had everything around it off anyway, I got it all apart and there wasn't even anywhere to put the o-ring. If I had pulled the housing with all the other stuff in I'd have been a bit miffed, that thing took hours last time I did it with the rest of the stuff like the headers in place.

Tom M'Guinn

The TSB makes reference to only two types, the symetrical one and the asymetrical one -- makes no mention of a single-groove version. How was it sealed?

z3bra

It was just a press fit of the sleeve in the hole. Not a very tight press fit, it came out relatively easy with some pliers, but I hadn't noticed any oil getting into the coolant or vice versa so the friction fit was apparently enough. Between the friction fit and that bearing retention compound which is just an anerobic sealing thread lock type goop from Permatex/Loctite, it should be fine, I've used that stuff to keep the big vacuum nipples in the intake casting very successfully. I originally used JB weld to hold them in when one came out and it lasted all of a couple weeks. The bearing/sleeve retainer is still going strong after a year or so. Seems to be pretty good stuff for close fitting metal to metal interfaces like that so I think it'll be fine.

My car is a pretty early 86 so I occasionally find some oddball stuff on it. I think it's actually closer to an 85.5 even though there isn't officially an 85.5 in the turbo cars. It was manufactured in June of 85 and it's #303 off the line per the VIN. It's also missing the high-mount brake lamp (A previous owner may have removed the high brake light though as I see the wiring leads up there and you can see where it was as a mark on the glass in the right lighting. Either that or the hatch has been replaced). and some of the wiring such as the speaker wires is not consistent with the wiring diagram. There's probably a few other things but that's what I've found so far.

As for the seal in the housing, it wasn't leaking but I forgot to do that one seal last time I had the housing off. I had everything off and the coolant drained anyway so I figured I wouldn't have an easier time swapping it than now. For what it's worth, the Hylomar I used to seal the main housing to address some pitting I saw in the groove for the big seal around the outside of the housing held up excellent and it showed zero signs of leakage over the year or so it was on there. It also cleaned up easily to reseal it. I reused the housing seal but it wasn't showing any compression set so between that and the small amount of Hylomar, I'm sure it'll be fine to reuse it this time around.

Tom M'Guinn

Interesting. The electrical schematics include a set for 85.5 turbos if I recall, so its not a far-fetched theory. Alldata says only two pipes were used "in production".