Jim, on mine it was perfectly flat when it came apart. When it went back together the lip was there same as you. I took it apart and tried the hammer trick, it didn't seem to work. Took it back apart cleaned everything, put new 574 on and then lithly tightened all bolts. Created a flat bar fixture and used some existing bolt holes to press the girdle back perfectly flush, this didn't take much torque at all. Tightened boltsto intermediate torque removed the fixture and finished torque process. It worked fine.

 

I had 0.002" mis-alignment on mine, it was well under the maximum gap that loctite 518 could seal, so I just let it go. I doubt that small of a mis-alignment on a 100,000+ mile oil-pump will make any difference at all (at least in my case).

 

Jim I had similar experiences. The alignment was flush when I disassembled the engine but was off enough to hang up a nail when I did a test run to put it together. I tried the freezer trick as well but it still wasnt flush. I wasnt willing to keep my fingers crossed that the oil pump wouldnt leak so I followed the recommendations in the factory manual and shaved her flush with a diamond stone. It was a bit intimidating at first but ultimately the material came off easily and I ended up with a perfect mating. No leaks 10000 miles later. I used loctite 574 and swear by the stuff.

 

Im pretty content with the lip size that I have now, that seems managable to shave/sand off. And as I mentioned in my last post, my only discomfort level now is the condensation moisture trapped in the bearing grease and messing up the 574 seal. Just one more thing to worry about........

dand, any pics of the fixture?

Thanks for all the input.

 

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/574-EN.pdf

"The product is designed for close fitting flanged parts with
gaps up to 0.25 mm."

In inches that's 10 thousandths, or .010 inches. That's why Porsche found the fit acceptable. Don't fight it!

 

518 is good to .25mm or .005"

 

Can you explain more about the flat bar fixture you created? Did you make a fulcrum to get pressure on the cradle, or did the cradle get pressed into place as you bolted your fixture to the block?

 

At what pressure?

 

JDietz951, what?...
in your first post, you say 0.25mm is 0.010", in your second, you say 0.25mm is 0.005"
??


The pressures Loctite 574/518 will seal at are far higher than anything seen in our oil system. I don't know the numbers off hand though, but I asked a similar question of a Loctite rep, and he laughed at me

 

Zero10: Second post is wrong. Must be the heat.

Tom: Follow the link. Read all about it. The whole idea of using a sealant is to fill gaps and imperfections. You're dreaming if you think you'll hand file or sand a perfectly flat surface. You'll just make the 2 surfaces match at the seam. I'm no engine expert, but I am a machine designer and I have put a lot of 518 on my 944s with 100% success.

http://tds.loctite.com/tds5/docs/574-EN.pdf

 

okay, math isn't my strong suit today, so I couldn't figure out which one was right, and it had me a little worried. I thought I had a significant margin of safety with my small misalignment, but if the limit was 0.005" I would have been pushing it. With it being 0.010" I'm definately safe. Good news

 

I think I need the the child's version. I especially liked: "The thixotropic nature of Loctite 574 reduces the migration of liquid product after application to the substrate." I think that means it's gooey and does run when you put it on stuff.

Was 518 developed after the 944 engine? Why do people use it in place of 574? I'm sure I'll have a gap like everyone else, no dreaming here. What is the "oil stone" referenced in the manual?

 

I just look at the pictures.

I couldn't find 574 except in giant tubes at the dealer for $50. But I found 518 and I compared the spec sheets online. They are very similar and are both intended for the same use.

I have an oil stone I bought at a bait and tackle shop, use it to sharpen knives. For info on the kind that machinists use, go here http://www.mcmaster.com/ and type "oil stone" in the search box

 

No comments from the freezer guys on how they avoided condensation on the mating surface?

Any info the loctite site regarding drying or setting up in the presence of moisture?

 

Tom, it was a heavy flat bar with holes drilled in the location of the oil pump assy so that it covered both the block and the girdle forcing the girle to move til flush with the block. On another assembly I just used the oil pump housing without any problem. if you have a good bar i would use it but on mine it took so little torque on the bolts I don't think you will hurt the oil pump and it certainly worked on my engine.