Faulty KLR ? Motronic Experts ?
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Ok here is the final scenario to my ..........
stumbling idle/erratic throttle response/ wandering idle
*ISV is disconnected and holes plugged
TWO final scenarios where car behaves relatively correct.
1. It will run with B and C shorted and TPS plugged in.
- The car runs SMOOTH, off idle response is good, like nothing is wrong.
- so with the shorted wire we have a WOT signal now to KLR and that passes the signal to the DME.
- so we can assume the idle switch works fine. Its able to come off idle no problem. So the contacts are tripped and the dme gets the proper signal at #2. (so connections on TPS 4 and 6 are good)
- can we assume that the KLR is receiving the proper signal from the TPS if it has smooth power delivery??
- so we can say that it runs on idle and switches to WOT maps.
2. It will run smoothly WITH OUT the TPS plugged in.
- so dme gets open signal on 4 and 6. So it runs on default partial throttle maps that are read of the chips. THese are 3d maps as far as I know.
- it runs SMOOTH like nothing is wrong. Obviously it does not go into idle or WOT maps.
- but it runs even better if we short B and C in this configuration.
Is there a fault in the KLR? I have not been able to generate any error codes on the klr except when I unplug the TPS ...
The KLR receives the signal from the TPS to determine what map to use. But its starting to look like its unable to make the selection even though the proper signals are coming to it. (I have checked the TPS signals at pin 21,22,23)
Could the problem lie somewhere between processing the signal to pin #18 KLR to pin #3 DME and processing on the DME???
I am officially out of my league when it comes to the processing of the signals.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
The only other option is to swap in another KLR and DME. Easier said than done.
P.S I think my car must of heard me saying I was going standalone next year.
stumbling idle/erratic throttle response/ wandering idle
*ISV is disconnected and holes plugged
TWO final scenarios where car behaves relatively correct.
1. It will run with B and C shorted and TPS plugged in.
- The car runs SMOOTH, off idle response is good, like nothing is wrong.
- so with the shorted wire we have a WOT signal now to KLR and that passes the signal to the DME.
- so we can assume the idle switch works fine. Its able to come off idle no problem. So the contacts are tripped and the dme gets the proper signal at #2. (so connections on TPS 4 and 6 are good)
- can we assume that the KLR is receiving the proper signal from the TPS if it has smooth power delivery??
- so we can say that it runs on idle and switches to WOT maps.
2. It will run smoothly WITH OUT the TPS plugged in.
- so dme gets open signal on 4 and 6. So it runs on default partial throttle maps that are read of the chips. THese are 3d maps as far as I know.
- it runs SMOOTH like nothing is wrong. Obviously it does not go into idle or WOT maps.
- but it runs even better if we short B and C in this configuration.
Is there a fault in the KLR? I have not been able to generate any error codes on the klr except when I unplug the TPS ...
The KLR receives the signal from the TPS to determine what map to use. But its starting to look like its unable to make the selection even though the proper signals are coming to it. (I have checked the TPS signals at pin 21,22,23)
Could the problem lie somewhere between processing the signal to pin #18 KLR to pin #3 DME and processing on the DME???
I am officially out of my league when it comes to the processing of the signals.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
The only other option is to swap in another KLR and DME. Easier said than done.
P.S I think my car must of heard me saying I was going standalone next year.
![grr](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/cussing.gif)
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Too many possibilities to think about on Friday afternoon. Of course, the Motronic Monitor comes in VERY handy when it comes to figuring out this stuff. Too bad you are not any closer, I can hookit up and tell what's going on inside the computer...
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Originally Posted by fast951
Too many possibilities to think about on Friday afternoon. Of course, the Motronic Monitor comes in VERY handy when it comes to figuring out this stuff. Too bad you are not any closer, I can hookit up and tell what's going on inside the computer...
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But you are right......... this stuff is TOO deep for a friday. We will tackle it next week. I may see if I can find a local KLR or DME to swap.
I guess I will run with idle and wot maps this SUnday. SHould be interesting.............. hehehehe
Have a good weekend.............
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I've had a standalone for the 951 for many years now. At the moment I'm messing with 3 930s using a plu-and-play standalone.. For the 951, 911 3.2 there is the MotronicEditor which works same as standalone.
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JustinL IS GOD..................
So today he came over..............cause he had problems to.
I guess his chips for his 55lb injectors were not mapped correctly (will not mention the name of the Sponsor who no longer sponsors here)
So we threw his dme and klr into my car..........and it exhibit similar symptoms as what was happening in his car. The car would not start......... etc...etc.........So we tried a few different FQS settings and voila we found a setting that worked..........
AND then a light came on. Maybe I should change the FQS settings.
So after playing with them we found 2,4 and 8 worked perfectly.
.........and 1,3,5,6,7 exhibit my wandering/stalling idling problem.
It was the FQS setting.
Now its been a while since I set this up and I can't remember what my FQS is supposed to be set at.
So john if you could let me know which one would work best that would be great.
Woooo hoooo...........
So today he came over..............cause he had problems to.
I guess his chips for his 55lb injectors were not mapped correctly (will not mention the name of the Sponsor who no longer sponsors here)
So we threw his dme and klr into my car..........and it exhibit similar symptoms as what was happening in his car. The car would not start......... etc...etc.........So we tried a few different FQS settings and voila we found a setting that worked..........
AND then a light came on. Maybe I should change the FQS settings.
So after playing with them we found 2,4 and 8 worked perfectly.
.........and 1,3,5,6,7 exhibit my wandering/stalling idling problem.
It was the FQS setting.
Now its been a while since I set this up and I can't remember what my FQS is supposed to be set at.
So john if you could let me know which one would work best that would be great.
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Woooo hoooo...........
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Alex, Sorry but things got more complex.. Each chip has a unique FQS settings.. However let's see what you got.. (I usually use base 0 for numbering, you used base 1 and we'll go with it).
FQS: 1st & 5th (0 & 4) use same fuel
FQS: 2nd & 6th (1 & 5) " "
FQS: 3rd & 7th (2 & 6) " "
FQS: 4th and 8th (3 & 7) " "
So 4th and 8th are fine as they are the same. But why 2nd worked and nit 6th position?
Usually the positions that worked for you increase fuel.. Now you have to figure out why it was running lean. Shouldn't have.. Email me the SMT6 map file you are using.
FQS: 1st & 5th (0 & 4) use same fuel
FQS: 2nd & 6th (1 & 5) " "
FQS: 3rd & 7th (2 & 6) " "
FQS: 4th and 8th (3 & 7) " "
So 4th and 8th are fine as they are the same. But why 2nd worked and nit 6th position?
Usually the positions that worked for you increase fuel.. Now you have to figure out why it was running lean. Shouldn't have.. Email me the SMT6 map file you are using.
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It was literally like flipping a switch on Alex's car to make it idle smoothly. Out on the test run it seemed to be running pretty nicely at part throttle and once the WOT fuel maps get cleaned up, it will once again be the rocket it's meant to be.
Alex and I also hatched a marketing plan for FQS adjustment tools. Finely Machined (grinder) durable steel rods with a convenient flat and pointy ends (nails) $5.99 Canadian.
Alex and I also hatched a marketing plan for FQS adjustment tools. Finely Machined (grinder) durable steel rods with a convenient flat and pointy ends (nails) $5.99 Canadian.
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