Does anybody know what size the elbow at the top of the air/oil seperator is?

Anybody have luck finding something that works as a replacement from the local parts store?

Thanks,

 

Hey Rob
I was told it 3/4 inch or 20 mm
I am very close to getting one
regards
ed
ps Karl2 (Doc )? has a pretty good write up on that

 

GAH!!! I spent hours at parts stores trying to match one up. I was getting ready to put the final parts on my engine when I found that hose was cracked to bits. I had no luck at all. Ended up re-using my old one, until I can get a new one from the dealership.

Please let me know if you find a solution.
I considered eliminating the metal tube assembly, and just running a rubber hose the full distance, but I wasn't sure if it would be a good idea or not.

 

You could ask for a hose in that size that already HAS a 90 bend in it... That might work.

 

Did that, I couldn't find anything that fit, since it changes size as well.

 

Thanks for the replies everybody. IIRC, Zero10 is correct about the different sized ends

Anbody have access to an AOS to measure the top connection size?

Thanks again,

 

Mines apart, ill measure it and the hose tonight.

 

Ok Rob
I had gone to the parts cabinets where 1/2 my car is and dug out the part
The ASO itself had a ID of 14mm
the metal tube ( at the end of the ASO had a ID of 5/8
the hose out of the ASO has an ID of 18mm
mind you this is the hose that has been sitting inside the ASO
so it may have stretched a tad ...
but I believe that these are good to go with ...
hope this helps
BTW I am removing all the stuff as well I just haven't yet found the exact replacement Let me know what you find out ...
I looked at silicone hose but it was ridiculously expensive with a 90 degree bend it was 35 bucks minium.
Regards
Ed

 

Thanks Ed! I'll report back if I find anything that works.

 

I found that little hose at various online retailers for around $10, I guess for that price, might as well go with the original hose?....
I think I will replace mine with the original part again the next time the manifold is off.

 

Hey Zero
Who may those online retailers be ?? :-)
regards
Ed

 

Hey Rob
I found and email from Hosetechinques
The quoted me 7.32 per ft 3 ft min on that AOS hose
If your interested ?
Regards
Ed
ps that would not include a 90 degree bend they said it would be 3 months before they have that hose

 

Are you talking about the one on the flat top of the AOS or the one that comes out the side pointing toward the front of the car? If it's the one on top and you have your AOS off, consider drilling it out and replacing it with a 37 degree flare AN/JIC nipple. I went with a -10 to 1/2 NPT nipple and then put a jam nut on the inside part which I then epoxied in place. Then just get a -10 elbow piece in either push on type barbed end or a regular AN variety and get the equivalent hose size to run back to the J-boot. Keep in mind that you need to pull the top off the AOS to do this properly. I would suggest getting 6 of the little tiny cheapo screwdrivers with the pocket clip like a pen at a hardware store and using those to push in the 6 clips holding the top cap on the AOS onto the body of it. Just be careful as it may be a little bit brittle from the time/heat it's been exposed to. You'll probably chip a few corners off of the lid piece prying it off, but if you're careful it will still hold just fine putting it back together. Also while you have it off, replace the o-ring between the lid and the body of the AOS. I don't have the size offhand but I just used a standard "dash" size o-ring and it was pretty close to what was in there aside from being soft and rubbery instead of squashed flat, hard, and brittle. It was also a nice big vacuum leak source for the engine as well. Replace the o-ring in the oil filler cap too while you're at it. It's another case where the exact metric one might be tough to source without ordering but the dash sized equivalent is more than suitable.

The other one is a bit more trouble. (the oil return line) That elbow is much bigger on the AOS end compared to the end that it crimps onto the metal tube. For that one I got a 90 degree -8 elbow (compact variety) with a standard 37 degree flare male end and a 3/8 npt end. The plastic tube on the AOS that points toward the front of the car can be cut off and then tapped with a 3/8 NPT tap and the elbow threaded and epoxied in. Then, get a straight -8 AN female fitting and hose and run that back to the metal tube part. You'll have to cut it off short and then get the end bubble flared for the hose but now you're not stuck buying a less than ideally designed $160.00 factory hose to replace it next time. Worst case if you screw up too badly you needed a new $160.00 hose anyway right?

And lastly, don't use silicone hose in this application at all. Oil related parts and silicone hoses are a terrible combination unless it's the specially lined silicone hose designed for use in oil related systems. Oil will make the silicone fall apart pretty quickly otherwise.

 

Hey Brian
Thanks for the heads up on the silicon vs the oil as not being a good idea ..
I had no clue ??
What about a braided stainless steel line for the ASO to the J pipe ??
I got a little lost when you were referring to the ASO and connecting it to ??
I just want to take the ASO get 90 fitting ( how and what I don't know ) and run a Home Run to the J pipe ( I have a SS J pipe from John at Viteese )
Any suggestions would be welcome
Also would love to do it in An fittings :-)
regards
Ed

 

Braided is fine, or just get some industrial hydraulic type hose that's designed to convey oils. Aeroquip and Parker both make some. If you use the hydraulic without external braiding you can just use push on barbed fittings which are more than enough for this application. If you're set on stainless, just get the stainless ends instead. The catch to using stainless on the J pipe end is that you've got to fit an AN fitting onto the tube somehow whereas just using hydraulic hose you can use the existing return's flared nipple piece and a hose clamp. Technically, you can use braided stainless there too if you want but it's going to look nasty and come unravelled. Use the fake hose clamp AN fitting lookalikes maybe, personally I can't stand em, all show, no go.

There are silicone hoses that have a fluoropolymer inside layer that you can use with oil, but if it's not specifically stated that it's designed for use with oil it's going to come apart sooner than you'd like. Same thing with using heater hose, there's enough hot oil vapor that they go to hell pretty quick too. I had some heater hose on there for about 5 months that I took off again and it was already looking pretty bad.