Alpine951

Everything going great. All the bolts came off. Now to get the downpipe off and one off the studs breaks flush with the turbine flange. i have never had to remove a stud that was broken off flush. I have heard of things called easy outs but don't have a clue what these are or how they work. Just got a K27 delivered yesterday and I have a buyer for my stock turbo. HELP!!!

Tom M'Guinn

Is the turbo off the car? If so, should be able to drill straight through it with a smaller diameter bit, no? Thay may release enough tension to turn it out -- but I seem to recall those have loctite on them, so you may need a little heat or force. EZ-outs are litte reverse thread sharp self tapping bits -- you drill a pilot hole and then reverve thread the EZ out into the pilot hole until it bites on the stud so you can turn it out. These things are even better (but more costly)

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00952152000

Soak it with PB Blaster or similar penetrant before doing anything. And heat it up with MAP gas torch is it seems glued in place.

Can you get at it from the back side? If so, you might be able to drill a pilot hole into it and just screw a woodscrew into it until it bites and turns (out) the stud.

A friendly gas station mechanic can pull it out too probably.

johne

be careful with easyouts, they can take less torque than the original stud, and they are mad out of quite hard metal. I had a similar situation with a stud in my stock wastegate. I broke it off flush and then drilled a hole down the center. Then when I tried to use an easy out on it I tried twisting a little too hard ~50 ft*lbs and snap the easy out broke off in the stud. I was completely unable to drill out that easy out, I swear it must be made out of undrillium alloy. In fact the easy out is still in that WG today, I ended up buying a Tial and saying F it.

HTH
-John

Bengt Sweden

I have had success with welding another screw to the broken one with a MIG. The heat helps to losen up things. Then work back and forth with some WD40.
Good Luck
Bengt

Rip It

take it to a machine shop!!!!! they will remove it cheap. Actually it will be cheaper BEFORE u try to and snap an easy-out. I have never figure out how they got away with calling them "easy" anything.
Good luck.

KLR

Agreed on the easy outs -- pretty much a waste of time and likely to make things much worse in this case. I you can get the part to a machine shop, you'll be happiest here. The few $ will be well worth it. Alternatively, you can try to use a dremel to cut a slot in the stud that you can get a flat blade screwdriver into.

Danno

Screw extractors can be tough to use and they can be a pain when they break. You want to use the largest one possible, so the hole you drill should be as large as possible. I've found that it's best to clamp the part in a vice on a drill-press so you can get a clean centered hole; use a hard carbide bit, not those crappy titanium-coated soft bits. In fact, if you drill a perfectly centered pilot hole, then expand to just under the diameter of the threads, you can grab the remaining threads of the bolt and peel it out in a single long strip, like peeling an apple in one long piece. Then just use a bolt in that hole the next time.

Laust Pedersen

And remember that the hole is blind, although probably is no disaster if you drill all the way to the scroll, since a stud is going to plug it anyway. Drilling all the way through will disturb the internal aerodynamics a bit and may create worries about leakage.
As I recall the thread is M10, 1.50 mm pitch.

Laust

ibkevin

I have the same mess going on! A well centered hole has removed pratically all the old stud and I skipped the ez-out because I know the hell they cause. I have been able to "peel out" about half a thread and have about three threads open.
I think my next move is running a bottoming tab into the threads that are open, hoping to cut the rest out. I'm thinking they used Locktite 9000 in there!