running leaner than a starving kid in africa *update on pg 3*
#16
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I couldn't find any links so I pulled out the Turbo Manual for you.
Idle Switch (Throttle Switch)
Connect ohmmeter + to terminal 2 of DME plug and - to a ground. Closed throttle should be 0-10ohm, open throttle should be infinate. If no indication, test direcly on pins 4 and 6 of TPS.
Throttle Potentiometer
Connect volt meter to pins 1 and 2 of TPS connector and turn on ignition. You should get 5V.
Turn off ignition and connect ohmmeter to pins 22 and 23 of KLR connector, move throttle from idle to full throttle slowly. You should not see dips or spikes on the ohm meter and values should be 320-670 ohms at idle and 2.7-4.7Kohm at full throttle.
Throttle Valve Cut-off
Bridge terminals 4 and 6 of TPS connector with a wire and start engine. Increase to 1600rpm and motor should begin to surge.
If these tests fail, TPS should be suspect.
On the TPS and Connector, with the 2 indents at the top and 3 at the bottom, pins are 1-6 from left to right.
Idle Switch (Throttle Switch)
Connect ohmmeter + to terminal 2 of DME plug and - to a ground. Closed throttle should be 0-10ohm, open throttle should be infinate. If no indication, test direcly on pins 4 and 6 of TPS.
Throttle Potentiometer
Connect volt meter to pins 1 and 2 of TPS connector and turn on ignition. You should get 5V.
Turn off ignition and connect ohmmeter to pins 22 and 23 of KLR connector, move throttle from idle to full throttle slowly. You should not see dips or spikes on the ohm meter and values should be 320-670 ohms at idle and 2.7-4.7Kohm at full throttle.
Throttle Valve Cut-off
Bridge terminals 4 and 6 of TPS connector with a wire and start engine. Increase to 1600rpm and motor should begin to surge.
If these tests fail, TPS should be suspect.
On the TPS and Connector, with the 2 indents at the top and 3 at the bottom, pins are 1-6 from left to right.
#18
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okay so today I started checking through everything.
first thing I checked was the supply voltage of the air flow meter.
it states to: connect a voltmeter to terminals 9 and 5 (ground) on the reverse of the control unit with suitable measuring tips.
control value: 5 +/- 0.5 volts
so I took a volt meter and stuck (into the dme harness) positve into #9 and negative into #5, with the ignition turned on, I got 0.5 volts.
that's qute a distance less than 5 volts.
now what do I do?
first thing I checked was the supply voltage of the air flow meter.
it states to: connect a voltmeter to terminals 9 and 5 (ground) on the reverse of the control unit with suitable measuring tips.
control value: 5 +/- 0.5 volts
so I took a volt meter and stuck (into the dme harness) positve into #9 and negative into #5, with the ignition turned on, I got 0.5 volts.
that's qute a distance less than 5 volts.
now what do I do?
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Not sure if you had the AFM disconnected for the test so....
On the AFM plug, insert + of your volt meter into terminal 3 (center pin) and ground to motor with the -. With the key on you should see 5V. Now check pin 9 on DME with + and chassis ground the -. You should see 5V. Also, no matter what you see as voltage, it should be the same on either end.
If no voltage on either end, DME could be the issue.
On the AFM plug, insert + of your volt meter into terminal 3 (center pin) and ground to motor with the -. With the key on you should see 5V. Now check pin 9 on DME with + and chassis ground the -. You should see 5V. Also, no matter what you see as voltage, it should be the same on either end.
If no voltage on either end, DME could be the issue.
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Ok.. 2 more checks on AFM.
Connect + to terminal 7 and - to terminal 5 on DME plug with VM and it should be 250 - 260mV. Push open the barn door on the AFM and it should go to 4.6V smoothly. If not , wiper assembly in AFM is not working correctly.
Temp sensor
Connect + to 22 and - to 6 on DME plug with ohmmeter. It should be 1.4 - 3.6K ohms.
If all check, do the TPS test.
Connect + to terminal 7 and - to terminal 5 on DME plug with VM and it should be 250 - 260mV. Push open the barn door on the AFM and it should go to 4.6V smoothly. If not , wiper assembly in AFM is not working correctly.
Temp sensor
Connect + to 22 and - to 6 on DME plug with ohmmeter. It should be 1.4 - 3.6K ohms.
If all check, do the TPS test.
#22
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idle switch test:
closed throttle was betwenn 0-10 ohms, open was undefined
throttle potentiometer:
5.01 volts between 1 and 2 tps connector
ohmeter between pins 22 and 23 of klr - linear, closed throttle @ .5 Kohms, full throttle @ 3.7 Kohms
throttle valve cut off:
cuts out @ ~1500 rpms
it passed everything.
the book says that a short curcuit on temperature sensor causes lean mixture.
I also came across a thing saying there is an a/f adjustment in the afm but you have to drill to get to it.
my dad thinks that low compression might have a little to do with it.
cyl:
1-120
2-115
3-123
4-115
closed throttle was betwenn 0-10 ohms, open was undefined
throttle potentiometer:
5.01 volts between 1 and 2 tps connector
ohmeter between pins 22 and 23 of klr - linear, closed throttle @ .5 Kohms, full throttle @ 3.7 Kohms
throttle valve cut off:
cuts out @ ~1500 rpms
it passed everything.
the book says that a short curcuit on temperature sensor causes lean mixture.
I also came across a thing saying there is an a/f adjustment in the afm but you have to drill to get to it.
my dad thinks that low compression might have a little to do with it.
cyl:
1-120
2-115
3-123
4-115
#24
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Originally Posted by emwporsche
my dad thinks that low compression might have a little to do with it.
cyl:
1-120
2-115
3-123
4-115
#25
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Connect + to terminal 7 and - to terminal 5 on DME plug with VM and it should be 250 - 260mV. Push open the barn door on the AFM and it should go to 4.6V smoothly. If not , wiper assembly in AFM is not working correctly.
I just tried this and it was unresponsive.
it stayed at .05 volts, no matter where the barn door is.
the ignition was on and the I used the dme harness to get the reading so the harness wasn't plugged into the dme, correct?
I just tried this and it was unresponsive.
it stayed at .05 volts, no matter where the barn door is.
the ignition was on and the I used the dme harness to get the reading so the harness wasn't plugged into the dme, correct?
#28
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Open the DME connector to gain access to the back of the pins. Unplug the connector and pull the black boot off the connector, remove the set screw, then slide top of connector towards you. Use the probes from the meter or paperclips attached to alligator clips to insert in the back of the pins. .
Ignition will be on for this test. This is the signal returning to the DME.
Ignition will be on for this test. This is the signal returning to the DME.
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weltmeister chips
Put a 3bar FPR in and try it.