DME/KLR chips
#1
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I hate to get another thread like this going, but I need to get something sorted out before I get too far in the re-assembly of my 951.
When I bought the car, I brought it to Adrial's place, to do some work on it. After some disassembly, he told me that he thought I had an autothority banjo bolt. I have no idea what the difference is, how they look or anything (sorry, kind of new to the little things on a turbo car), could somebody please enlighten me on this?
Also, I had this feeling, that if I had an autothority banjo bolt, I should probably also have their chips, so I pull the DME and KLR (which were not even secured in there!!!!!!!!!!!!!), open them up and find what look to be aftermarket chips.
They both have stickers on them, which say 93-260 DME and 93-260 KLR (respectively). I'm presuming the 93 is the year they were made/thought of/something, and 260 means something that I don't know. Could somebody fill me in what chips these are?
That said, I need to be sure that I have the correct banjo bolt for these chips, to make sure that everything works properly.
Final question (hopefully), with these chips, will it be using the O2 sensor? I think mine is pretty much done for, the entire exhaust is just buried in soot inside, so I'm planning on replacing it, but if the chips ignore it, there's no point in spending money on a new one.
Thanks!
When I bought the car, I brought it to Adrial's place, to do some work on it. After some disassembly, he told me that he thought I had an autothority banjo bolt. I have no idea what the difference is, how they look or anything (sorry, kind of new to the little things on a turbo car), could somebody please enlighten me on this?
Also, I had this feeling, that if I had an autothority banjo bolt, I should probably also have their chips, so I pull the DME and KLR (which were not even secured in there!!!!!!!!!!!!!), open them up and find what look to be aftermarket chips.
They both have stickers on them, which say 93-260 DME and 93-260 KLR (respectively). I'm presuming the 93 is the year they were made/thought of/something, and 260 means something that I don't know. Could somebody fill me in what chips these are?
That said, I need to be sure that I have the correct banjo bolt for these chips, to make sure that everything works properly.
Final question (hopefully), with these chips, will it be using the O2 sensor? I think mine is pretty much done for, the entire exhaust is just buried in soot inside, so I'm planning on replacing it, but if the chips ignore it, there's no point in spending money on a new one.
Thanks!
#2
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The APE banjo bolt has a restrictor inside of it.. Remove banjo bolt from Turbo-to-intercooler pipe, look inside of it.. a restrictor is very easy to identify.
As far as the chips, most (if not all) APE chips will have the APE (AutoThority) name on the sticker.. If unable to figure out what chips you have, it's advisable to place back stock banjo bolt and stock chips, or get a well know set of aftermarket chips.
As far as the chips, most (if not all) APE chips will have the APE (AutoThority) name on the sticker.. If unable to figure out what chips you have, it's advisable to place back stock banjo bolt and stock chips, or get a well know set of aftermarket chips.
#3
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Ditto what John said.
Zero, I can take pics of my banjo bolt if need be. I don't really feel like ripping the interior for a pic of the chips
At any rate mine say "Autothority" right on the chip.
Zero, I can take pics of my banjo bolt if need be. I don't really feel like ripping the interior for a pic of the chips
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Here is a pic of my chips and banjo bolt (look close and you can see the restrictor), from Autothority. Mine are for the MAF kit, but I'm guessing the banjo bolts are the same, and the chips are probably very similar. Hope this helps some.....
![](http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/trwright/mass-chip-paper.jpg)
#5
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Okay, I don't have the banjo bolt handy, but that is definately not how mine looked. It had some copper piece on the inside of it though.
The chips had what I wrote above, handwritten on a white sticker on them, that looked about as old as the car, or perhaps 1993?
I have one theory on this one...
The DME and KLR were obviously removed when the engine was swapped, or else they were just poorly installed from a previous removal. The engine was swapped for an 86 engine, what went with the old engine was a webcam, and what sounds like the autothority setup, sounds like they pulled the DME and KLR with the 86 motor, and they already had some no-name chips.
If I open the DME and KLR up again, could you guys try to help me figure out what I do have?
The chips had what I wrote above, handwritten on a white sticker on them, that looked about as old as the car, or perhaps 1993?
I have one theory on this one...
The DME and KLR were obviously removed when the engine was swapped, or else they were just poorly installed from a previous removal. The engine was swapped for an 86 engine, what went with the old engine was a webcam, and what sounds like the autothority setup, sounds like they pulled the DME and KLR with the 86 motor, and they already had some no-name chips.
If I open the DME and KLR up again, could you guys try to help me figure out what I do have?
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What you want to make sure of, is that you are not running the banjo bolt without the chips. The Autothority banjo bolt has a restrictor in it, to let less air through, tricking the CV into opening the wastegate later, allowing more boost. It is a problem if you are running these boost levels on the stock chips, because they are mapped for like 10psi, and if you were to spool more than that, you will lean out.
#7
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Ahh, well I did make one big oopsy right after buying the car, I guess the wastegate was disconnected, and I got into it really hard a couple times, it went like hell, but I never heard any knock, so I hope it's alright.
Let me see what I can do about pictures, I was out of town all day today on school-related things.
Let me see what I can do about pictures, I was out of town all day today on school-related things.
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#8
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" I got into it really hard a couple times, it went like hell, but I never heard any knock, so I hope it's alright."
Be careful! By the time you can hear knock, it's way, way too late!!!
Be careful! By the time you can hear knock, it's way, way too late!!!
#9
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I had those same damn chips when I bought my car!! white sticker, 9#-### DME or KLR written on them!! Pulled them and put Europroducts replacements in them. If you find out what they are let me know!!! Probably came from San Diego somewhere...
Also zero10, Do you have a dither at your O2 sensor at idle?? Check for 5V voltage between testport terminals B and C at idle...
Also zero10, Do you have a dither at your O2 sensor at idle?? Check for 5V voltage between testport terminals B and C at idle...
#10
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I'm thinking of sending them to somebody to have the data on them read, maybe they're very similar to another set out there?... Maybe somebody can identify them?
I may be interested in a set of stock chips, since they're definately safer than these, lol.
have a dither at my O2 sensor? What is a dither?
I'm just wondering if the chips ignore the O2 sensor, not sure if I can really test for that.
I may be interested in a set of stock chips, since they're definately safer than these, lol.
have a dither at my O2 sensor? What is a dither?
I'm just wondering if the chips ignore the O2 sensor, not sure if I can really test for that.
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SURE YOU CAN (as I learned!). Simply get your voltmeter, go to the testport in front of your fusebox, and measure voltage with car running between terminals B and C (one all by itself is C, and if C is the bottom, of the other top 4 terminals B is third from left). See if this is 5V. Also, Measure voltage at back of DME pin connector 24, to a chassis ground, and if it jumps around between say 0.1V and 0.7V or so. This jumping is the dither, meaning youre in closed loop, and that your O2 sensor is active. Let car warm up before this measurement though.
#12
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It should actually straddle 0.5v, so 0.4 -> 0.6 -> 0.3 -> 0.7 -> 0. 5 -> etc...
"The chips had what I wrote above, handwritten on a white sticker on them, that looked about as old as the car, or perhaps 1993?"
Handwritten labels, eh? That's scary...
"The chips had what I wrote above, handwritten on a white sticker on them, that looked about as old as the car, or perhaps 1993?"
Handwritten labels, eh? That's scary...
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#14
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I took some pics, but they're pretty blurry, I'll post them later tonight.
Now, my understanding of the O2 sensor is as follows, once it's good and hot, it generates it's own power, between 0 and 1V, if I'm right, then the only way to check if the DME is reading that value, would be to replace the O2 sensor connection to the DME with a variable power supply, and vary it between 0 and 1V, see if the O2 sensor reading changes in correspondance to my changes.
I'm wondering if any of the guys on the motronic code website would be interested in reading my chips?...
Now, my understanding of the O2 sensor is as follows, once it's good and hot, it generates it's own power, between 0 and 1V, if I'm right, then the only way to check if the DME is reading that value, would be to replace the O2 sensor connection to the DME with a variable power supply, and vary it between 0 and 1V, see if the O2 sensor reading changes in correspondance to my changes.
I'm wondering if any of the guys on the motronic code website would be interested in reading my chips?...