Holson

How many cans of Freeze12 did you put in? What about oil? What oil did you use?

Thanks
-Holson-

Porsche-O-Phile

All the info. you need about freeze-12 is on their web site. I was going to use this product on my cars until I got a batch of r12 "donated" to me. It does look like an excellent product and you can buy the kits fairly inexpensively direct.

azmi951

I just recently painted the nose, bumpers and header pannel with a single stage DuPont alpine white. Total cost (I already had a gun) was $140. The results are great, it really makes the car look fresh.
However, the nose is the most difficult thing to shoot because of all the non flat parts and edges so I go a few drips that I had to sand out. No big deal.

ferkel

"Fogging" the last coat is not recommended by DuPont. In doing so you can create an adhesion problem as the clear will adhere to the layer of overspray you just applied. Chromabase applied with the right equipment and proper solvent for ambient temp rareley needs a dust/fog/mist coat. If you ever see a peeling clearcoat that has a little color attached, this is the cause. I always tack my base before clearing, just make sure to use a "base coat" tack cloth and be thorough. If you miss a spot it will show in the sun..especially if you applied a mist coat. Fogging is a throw back to the days of acrylic enamel single stage mettalics. Wasn't a problem then because the paint stayed wet long enough for mist to melt in. It was also more necessary because enamels were applied much wetter so metalics tended to shift.

streckfu's

Selling the K27? How much and when?

Peckster

[QUOTE=tammons]
I know of a body shop guy down here that has been spraying for 20 yrs without a mask, so no telling what kind of shape he is in !!
QUOTE]

That's just sad. Bet we won't be seeing him on Jeopardy!

car_slave

Thanks, I did use a tack clothe on the base to pull any loose paint dust - I read about doing that somewhere- The problem I have now is that the paint is a different color at different angles. Matches perfectly from the sides, but looks darker head on. The car was repainted before in two stage and I'm just using a $100 HVLP gun from Home Depot. What do you think the problem is? Will a fancy spray gun make all the difference, or is that just the nature of metalics?

ldt1

I personally know two auto painters that have irreparable liver damage from yrs of exposure to the various toxic chemicals that are in auto paint. I have never worn a suit, but to paint in an enclosed space without a proper respirator is just plain stupid.

DanG

Any special care/products/methods recommended for the front valence? I'm getting ready to paint my front end and have a virgin urethane piece to get ready. Its completely unpainted, just plain black urethane. Its going to be on a Guards Red car.

Obviously it doesn't have any major scars, but what kind of primer/filler should I use? And how can I make sure it stays flexible and doesn't chip off on the first drive?

pflyers

http://hotrodders.com/forums/

really good forum for this kind of stuff

azmi951

use a flexable primer

Porsche-O-Phile

What can be used to re-connect cracked plastic also? IIRC there's some kind of "super-epoxy" the body shops use for this but I don't know the trade name or manufacturer. Specifically I'd need it to repair the lower valence; there's a crack at one of the attachment points.

car_slave

I did my lower attachment points with fiberglass, and aluminum for any big holes. Worked well, but there is something called plastic weld which is supposed to work also, although I have never used it.

Ben Z.

If you find out, let me know. I haven't tried regular epoxy because I only want to do it once so I don't have globs of epoxy everywhere.