I am planning on upgrading my car with a turbo/injectors and a map kit. I am not too concerned with the actual install although I don't know what needs to be done, but I have been doing all the work on my car since I bought it. Is a laptop required along with various adaptors plus dyno time? I am trying to get an idea of all the hidden costs. I also don't understand how the tuning module plays into the setup.

 

pretty much yep. Once the install is done, you'll need to download a startup setting to get it running, and then an amount of dyno time will be needed to analyse what the car is doing forst run, a modification on the settings, and then a further run to check. You may have to go through that dyno loop a few times to get things spot on.

 

Will you be using the guru map kit?

I live locally and could help you get the maps made up if you needed help. A wideband o2 sensor from tech edge or zeitronix would make tuning much easier, just something to consider.

The tuning module is just what is used to add or subract fuel in the different zones on the map.

 

Mark,

Yeah, I'm waiting to hear from Dan. Thanks for the offer. I think I may need it. I just found the Link website. Can you use either the pc software or the tuning module to change the fuel zones?

 

just the tuning module

 

The car should at least be driveable right off the bat after you install the MAP kit, assuming there is no serious mismatch between the chip programming and the configuration of your car. The initial thing is to get the boost level correct so your A/F ratios will be in the right range. The dyno will help you fine tune the A/F ratios. As Mark has said, you do that with the Link tuning module, which simply modifies the preprogrammed fuel maps. It's quite easy. You could skip the dyno and do pretty much the same thing with your own WBO2 system and road testing, but the dyno is easier because it's a controlled environment where you can get repeatable results. There's a bunch of info on how to tune with the Link system, which you can probably find with the search function.

My car took a total of seven pulls on the dyno (about one hour of dyno time) to dial it in. The main thing I had to adjust was the fuel on the top end. I was way too rich above 5000 rpm (<10:1) because my boost was dropping towards redline. I gained a lot of power by leaning it out to about 12:1 around redline. Once I'm into full boost my A/F is pretty constant around 12:1 all the way to redline.

 

my car was def driveable after my install with the stage 2 kit. i never went to the dyno, but i did play around with the tuning module to get my idle correct. i wish i would have upgraded my injectors to see what the kit was really capable of but its for sale now on ebay. it will make someone a great deal, as for the install. its pretty easy, all exept for the j pipe install. i found that a little difficult but i made a call to guru and they got me where i needed it to be. the only other thing that is needed is the wiring, and thats pretty much straight forward.

 

I saw that stage II, why did you decide to remove it?

 

i need to repair some bodywork to the car, it was unexpected. some individual hit me in a bowling alley parking lot. i dont know if it was an accident or not, but there is a huge dent in my drivers side fender now. also i have a new project coming along, and i need money for it. so my porsche is going back to stock and i will use it as a daily driver. by the way the new project is going to be a 2nd rx7 with an lt1 v8 in it

 

Alpine951
The Green Machine is in the final tuning stage of a Guru Stage ll upgrade, and it did fire up and run without any tricks. Dyno time coming in May, when I'm back up in the Northeast. See you at the tracks, and keep in touch if you have questions.
RADS

'86 chassis, Green, Turbo S engine, running gear, turbo cup suspension, 3" straight through Fab exhaust, etc.

 

Hi Russ,

Nice to hear from you. I was taliking with Dan yesterday. Today I thought of waiting a bit on the map to dyno my car first. I got a free dyno last year through a dyno day with NER. All they did was hp and torque. It was disapointing. Boost dropped like a rock. I now have an electronic boost controller which was holding boost much better at the end of last year with the k26/6. My plan was to try and yank out the 26/6 and send it out to turbo performance and have a k27 done to the compressor. Its taken me some time to do a koni strut conversion up front with stiffer springs and bigger torsion bars in the back. car is in my garage with the airbox off and I was about to pull the fuel rail and manifold to replace the vacum lines. Considering what is involved in trying to get the turbo out and work, marriage, and my daughter, I am getting itchy to get the car on the road now. I was going to do a map next year but its probably am easier install than doing the turbo now. Now I might wait because I found a dyno day close by with a DOdge SRT club. $65 and I think I would first like to see how it does including air/fuel ratio and boost since I now have 18psi chips whith a stiffer wastegate and ebc. DOing the vacum lines should help also.