Motor wont start... no spark- UPDATE 4/7
#1
That Guy
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i checked the speed sensor and played with it for the last two days. The DME relay is some what new and looks in great condiction on the inside. What else can there be?
Any help would be great
-Ian
Any help would be great
-Ian
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Last edited by Ian Carr; 04-07-2005 at 04:28 PM.
#2
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Check the KLR.. If the chip was installed with the notches (chip * socket) not ligned up, the chip usually burns up. Or you could have a KLR problem..
Of course the DME could be bad as well..
Of course the DME could be bad as well..
#3
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While doing a top end and waiting for the head to come back I installed a air/fuel gage. Taping into the wires close to the DME so naturally I unplugged the the wires from the DME. NO SPARK a week later when trying to start. After checking the PU sensor, coil, etc...and spending about 10 hours of trouble shooting it was one pin not making contact on the DME plug, check the plug connectors.
#4
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Turbo X
You need to give us more information. Did you change anything? Install anything? Did this happen all of a sudden for no reason?
Ok this is what I would do
1. Does your car have an factory alarm system if so that could cause this no start stiuation on my 86 I had to remove the system because it whent bad (there is a write up about this if you do a search)
2. Did you have the clutch replaced recently pull the two sensors out of the back of the block and check to see if they have any scrapes on them or scars if so replace them.
2. Does this happen after a car wash or rain water will get to the fuse box easily and on the passenger side foot well
3. Does the tac bounce when trying to start if not thats a bad sign
You need to give us more information. Did you change anything? Install anything? Did this happen all of a sudden for no reason?
Ok this is what I would do
1. Does your car have an factory alarm system if so that could cause this no start stiuation on my 86 I had to remove the system because it whent bad (there is a write up about this if you do a search)
2. Did you have the clutch replaced recently pull the two sensors out of the back of the block and check to see if they have any scrapes on them or scars if so replace them.
2. Does this happen after a car wash or rain water will get to the fuse box easily and on the passenger side foot well
3. Does the tac bounce when trying to start if not thats a bad sign
#5
That Guy
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Well i just rebuilt the Entire motor and got it back in. This will be its first time running in 5-6 months. It has fuel pressure.
we have played with the two referencee sensor in the rear for two days now and should be lined up. I had special tool over today to give me a hand and the sensor seem to be alright. The coil has power but is not giving a spark. The car has a factory alarm system which i need to look up how to get rid of it. The tac does move it goes up and stays up above 1000-2000 rpms. We put special tools DME in my car to see if i can get a spark and no we did not.
We came to the conclusion that we need to investigate the alarm system.
Also we tryed guru chips and the stock chip both didnt work
-ian
we have played with the two referencee sensor in the rear for two days now and should be lined up. I had special tool over today to give me a hand and the sensor seem to be alright. The coil has power but is not giving a spark. The car has a factory alarm system which i need to look up how to get rid of it. The tac does move it goes up and stays up above 1000-2000 rpms. We put special tools DME in my car to see if i can get a spark and no we did not.
We came to the conclusion that we need to investigate the alarm system.
Also we tryed guru chips and the stock chip both didnt work
-ian
#6
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The 944 system is very simple to troubleshoot:
1. Check the three corner pins of the DME for +12 (pins 1, 18, 35).
If these powers are O.K., then forget the alarm, i.e. It only removes one of the powers.
2. Check the sensors for the correct voltages;
a. ref - pins 25 & 26 should have >.10VAC when cranking
b. speed - pins 8 & 27 should have >1.0VAC when cranking
3. the coil must have +12 on both pins
4. the DME must have ground on pins 5 & 16/17
If all the above are O.K., then bypass the KLR by removing it and jumping
pins 21 & 32 on back of DME connector. You can jumper pins 9 & 16
on the KLR too, which is generally much easier. Remember, remove the
KLR unit.
If the car runs with KLR removed (not a short term problem), then
focus on troubleshooting the KLR.
1. Check the three corner pins of the DME for +12 (pins 1, 18, 35).
If these powers are O.K., then forget the alarm, i.e. It only removes one of the powers.
2. Check the sensors for the correct voltages;
a. ref - pins 25 & 26 should have >.10VAC when cranking
b. speed - pins 8 & 27 should have >1.0VAC when cranking
3. the coil must have +12 on both pins
4. the DME must have ground on pins 5 & 16/17
If all the above are O.K., then bypass the KLR by removing it and jumping
pins 21 & 32 on back of DME connector. You can jumper pins 9 & 16
on the KLR too, which is generally much easier. Remember, remove the
KLR unit.
If the car runs with KLR removed (not a short term problem), then
focus on troubleshooting the KLR.
#7
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The alarm system has been jumpered and is no longer a problem as of now...hopefully...
We swaped the ref sensor and the TDC sensor and plugged them in. The motor tryed to start but the RMP gauge did not work and the motor would not stay going.
Going to try and get another sensor because we think that one might be busted and its to bad we didnt save our old ones
-Ian
We swaped the ref sensor and the TDC sensor and plugged them in. The motor tryed to start but the RMP gauge did not work and the motor would not stay going.
Going to try and get another sensor because we think that one might be busted and its to bad we didnt save our old ones
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-Ian
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#8
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Sounds like you are almost there Turbo x
I know how frustrateing this can be. Last summer I had spent many days and nights trying to track down some electrical problem ended up replacing the injector harness, both ref sensors, Dme (this was the best the car would start go down the street then die I would tap on the dme box and to my surprise the idle would change) Check all your connections in the harness to the DME
I know how frustrateing this can be. Last summer I had spent many days and nights trying to track down some electrical problem ended up replacing the injector harness, both ref sensors, Dme (this was the best the car would start go down the street then die I would tap on the dme box and to my surprise the idle would change) Check all your connections in the harness to the DME
#10
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His old man is pretty sharp - He got spark this morning.
He didn't have batteries for his meter yesterday - so we couldn't check it while I was there.
Indications are now that he was sent a brand new factory reference sensor that was bad.
Obviously, we tried all the elementary suggestions made by Lauren first.
He didn't have batteries for his meter yesterday - so we couldn't check it while I was there.
Indications are now that he was sent a brand new factory reference sensor that was bad.
Obviously, we tried all the elementary suggestions made by Lauren first.
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#11
That Guy
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Bad news. While at school my dad almost started the car. It wanted to start and i guess there was spark. He opened up the oil filler and............ water!!@!#%R$@$%@$%#^!@$%#%^
I guess two o-rings went on the external pump or some thing so we get to start over again! YAY
Ill update when we get it back to normal non working position
I guess two o-rings went on the external pump or some thing so we get to start over again! YAY
Ill update when we get it back to normal non working position
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#15
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We were not getting spark out of the coil... but like i said we switched the sensors and the car was trying to start but no rpms would come up on the tac. I guess trying to start it today it wanted to start but didnt and looked in the pol filler and boom milk colored oil
-Ian
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-Ian