Rough Cam Tower Lifter Bores: What to do?
#1
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rough Cam Tower Lifter Bores: What to do?
Many of you know my crazy powder coating experiences, well, it just keeps going and going. I really think the Porsche Gods do not want me to finish my car. Anyways, I got my cam tower back and cleaned it up. There are shavings of metal stuck in the grooves in the lifter bores. I cleaned that out best I could. But the bores feel like someone took a 100 grit sandpaper and went to town on the bores. Also, the journals that the cam goes in feel the same, but are not as bad. I think someone did not cover the bottom or sides of the cam tower when it was sandblasted. There is also a little bit of overspray of powder in the bores. I don't know what to do now. I am out of money/time/patience. Have others had this problem when people PC your stuff? Can anyone do a decent job anymore? I have been shafted by people more in this month than ever in my life. I am growing tired of it. But is there anyway to fix this? And quickly? Ideas? Thanks
#3
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok, I might be able to get another cam tower, but it has 140k on it. Would this be ok? Or should I look for a newer one? Do these wear out easily? I don't think I have ever heard of that...
#4
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Sam Lin
What about the entire bottom mating face of the cam housing? Was that masked?
Sam
Sam
Yeah, that looks untouched, so I don't know what happened.
#5
Race Car
Wow, if they screwed up the bearing surfaces for the cam, that's really bad news. I would be sticking it where the sun don't shine if they did that to my cam tower.
Cams and the housings don't really wear (at least not appreciably), so one with 140k on it shouldn't be bad.
One thought, is to drop a N/A cam in, I've been told the late N/A cams are good to help cut spool-up time, without any measurable losses in power/torque.
Cams and the housings don't really wear (at least not appreciably), so one with 140k on it shouldn't be bad.
One thought, is to drop a N/A cam in, I've been told the late N/A cams are good to help cut spool-up time, without any measurable losses in power/torque.
#6
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Would putting in the N/A cam just advance the timing? Cus I don't want that. Lots of boost and advanced timing don't mix to well so my engine has told me. At any rate, I am not changing the cam, just the tower housing itself. My lifters and cam are good.
Trending Topics
#8
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Originally Posted by Tom M'Guinn
#9
I masked off the openings before I blasted anything and never blasted the bottom of the cover at all. In fact the media I use is very fine. Most of the clean up on that tower was done with stripper. However since there is no way to say the last guy did it and he would never say he is responsible because it has been stripped I will be happy to help you out with finding another cover. Let me see what I can find.
I just checked 2 other covers that I did and the bores were fine. I use a fine Aluminum Oxide in my blasting cabinet and the only way I could have damaged the bores is to place the gun directly in the bores. I will bet that the last guy that coated them put them in an industrial blasting cabinet. Sand blasting would tear those bores up. Is there any difference in the NA and turbo Cam Cover? They look the same?
I just checked 2 other covers that I did and the bores were fine. I use a fine Aluminum Oxide in my blasting cabinet and the only way I could have damaged the bores is to place the gun directly in the bores. I will bet that the last guy that coated them put them in an industrial blasting cabinet. Sand blasting would tear those bores up. Is there any difference in the NA and turbo Cam Cover? They look the same?
Last edited by Helstrm; 04-05-2005 at 10:07 AM.
#10
I am driving down to GA Sunday to get a few parts. I will pick up another cam tower. Just let me know if you want it coated or not before I ship it to you. Don't worry about the bores. I am sure I did not blast them...
#11
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rick, I know you did not do it now. It was the turd before you. He did put it in a cabinet.
Ok, I got my calipers back. There is blue in the back side within the caliper. Like the piston is out and there is overspray into the cylinder or whatever you call it on a caliper, on the inside of it. Will brake fluid melt that off and mess up my brake system? This is getting ridiculous.
Ok, I got my calipers back. There is blue in the back side within the caliper. Like the piston is out and there is overspray into the cylinder or whatever you call it on a caliper, on the inside of it. Will brake fluid melt that off and mess up my brake system? This is getting ridiculous.
#12
That guy was a moron,.. I noticed that overspray too. The best thing to do is use a brake hone to clear it out. You can get these at any auto parts store and they aren't much. I do this anytime I rebuild brakes. I would not worry about the powder getting in the fluid but you want to get it as smooth as you can so they don't leak. If you don't have access to a hone then at least take the finest sand paper you can and clean up the inside a bit.
#13
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
The hone may work for the sides, but the most of the powder is on the bottom, the flat part. Is there some type of stripper I can take to that?
#14
oh ****. I did not look inside!!!! You can get aircraft stripper from the auto parts store also just be careful and only get it inside or it will eat up the coat on the outside. Let it sit for about 20 minutes they you should be able to scrape most of it out. Hose it down good afterwards because the water makes the stripper inert.