Are custom Maf chips worth it????
#1
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Are custom Maf chips worth it????
Hi all, I just talked to Lindsey racing about my problem and they where AWESOME as usually. They told me to pull my O2 sensor because of smoke on cold startup and my power perfect was messing with the dme. I did that and it seemed to help, but I am still rediculiously rich. I have the folowing mods; Power Perfect, Lindsey stage 2 maf, linsey full 3" exhaust, 3 bar fpr, bypassed cv, reliaboost, europroducts chips, and shimmed wastegate. I am running 15 psi boost. My main question is should I continue to struggle messing with my power perfect or should I try and get a custom set of chips for my set up. I have dynoed the car and I am still a bit rich but, a/f was only done on boost. Anyways, I folowed the car and it is smoking black at every light just a little on light throttle. I know that black smoke is fine on boost but this is off boost. I was thinking of vitesse chips if he makes them.
Sorry for the long post but any help would be greatly appreciated.
Sorry for the long post but any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by black944 turbo; 04-05-2005 at 08:13 AM.
#3
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The power perfect should allow you change your A/F ratio. I dpn't understand why would you need custom chips, just dial your power perfect leaner. Do you have a wide band sensor? or how do you monitor your a/f ratio?
#4
Drifting
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The way I see it is that the chips have an "inbuilt" A/F curve, so by adjusting the powerperfect, you could in theory overcome any shortfalls in that. But John has told me off for that before (without really explaining what happens then!!)
I think the chips thing is more of a *what else they do* thing also. There's redlines, fuel delivery and all sorts thrown into them, which will obviously have an effect too.
I think the chips thing is more of a *what else they do* thing also. There's redlines, fuel delivery and all sorts thrown into them, which will obviously have an effect too.
#5
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I control my a/f ratio with the power perfect and it's rather easy, the timming and redline is set by the chip.
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here is a log from my wideband
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#8
Three Wheelin'
I highly suggest going back to a stock 2.5 bar fpr. I just dyno'd my 951 w/ AFR monitoring and above 5k rpm my car drops off the charts (below 10:1 = rich as hell!) with the 3 bar fpr. All I have is Guru 15psi chips and a EBC set at 1bar. I don't think a 3bar fpr is really necessary unless you do a turbo upgrade. With full bolt-on mods, the stock FPR should work fine from what I've seen.
#9
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If you are running over 13 psi you need more fuel. I know with the stock fpr I was going dangerously lean, now with the 3 bar and power perfect I am still a touch lean at redline. But not enough to be worried about, Anyways the power perfect has its drawbacks that is why I am asking. Yes the europroducts chips are mapped to 2.5bar fpr but I am overiding that part of it. I don't have anything to monitor a/f that's why I dynoed it and then started to use the power after getting it safe. Lart can you explain how you got your a/f so good and what is your a/f at idle?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
#10
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Originally Posted by black944 turbo
If you are running over 13 psi you need more fuel. I know with the stock fpr I was going dangerously lean, now with the 3 bar and power perfect I am still a touch lean at redline. But not enough to be worried about, Anyways the power perfect has its drawbacks that is why I am asking. Yes the europroducts chips are mapped to 2.5bar fpr but I am overiding that part of it. I don't have anything to monitor a/f that's why I dynoed it and then started to use the power after getting it safe. Lart can you explain how you got your a/f so good and what is your a/f at idle?
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
You need to play with your power perfect send me your power perfect map here is my email:
artiga@earthlink.net
Luis
#11
i ran a maf with europroduct chips for a while but after i threw in the 3bar fpr it ran like ****. i ended up getting chips for my car from guru and have worked great since the turbo upgrade and etc..
#13
Three Wheelin'
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While you may need more fuel on top and the 3 bar will supply that, you are really rich in the pt throttle and idle area. By using the piggyback to adjust fuel you are also affecting timing. BTW the Europroducts chips are definitly not mapped for 15psi to redline which is probably why you were so lean with a 2.5bar
The piggyback is really best to fine tune. At the very least you should get chips mapped for a 3bar
FPR, that will make tuning a lot easier.
The Best thing to to would be get a set of chips custom mapped for your configuration. Vitesse comes to mind
Why not pop in the 2.5 bar, dial your boost back to 13 or 14 psi, or just stay off boost and see if your idle and pt throttle problems go away.
The piggyback is really best to fine tune. At the very least you should get chips mapped for a 3bar
FPR, that will make tuning a lot easier.
The Best thing to to would be get a set of chips custom mapped for your configuration. Vitesse comes to mind
Why not pop in the 2.5 bar, dial your boost back to 13 or 14 psi, or just stay off boost and see if your idle and pt throttle problems go away.
#15
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It would depend on how much it is off nominal, I have never messed with a signal massager and prefer to make adjustment in the chips. That way I can change fuel without affecting timing.