Mikeaagesen

After you remove those pesky bolts, you should switch to regular hex bolts like I did. Hopefully removing them this time will be a lot easier.

Crazy Eddie

After you remove those pesky bolts, you should switch to regular hex bolts like I did. Hopefully removing them this time will be a lot easier.

Jeez I never thought of that ...
Thanks to z3bra I bought these 12 hardness bolts ...but they are still socket type bolts....
BTW I have quite a few extras if need by anyone ( both long and short )
rregards
Ed

David Floyd

Anti-Sieze when you put them back in !!!

johne

Correction, you do not have to remove the down pipe. I just removed my turbo last week and per Danno's advice (a year or two ago) I left the downpipe attached to the turbo. I did unbolt the cat section of the exhaust from the downpipe, though. This makes the job much easier, and the downpipe comes right out with the turbocharger.

-John

johne

This is really good advice. In fact I recommend this technique on all stuck nuts or bolts. This really decreases the chances of stripping a bolt/nut. Also as aforementioned, stabilize the head of the ratchet with one hand and twist on the handle with the other.

-John

Crazy Eddie

Yes my mistake ... I should have said its all comes out together
but it has to be disconnected from the crossover

johne

No problem, just trying to help out a fellow lister.

-John

z3bra

Clearance could be an issue. as there is somewhat of a countersink for the bolt heads in the engine mount casting. In looking at it I didn't think a standard hex head bolt would be able to turn freely. I believe that's why the factory went with the socket head capscrews. If I had the money or tools to do them myself I'd look into using some reduced head 12point external or the like. If you could get them in a material like A286 that's desgined for the high temps without getting annealed that would be even better. Unfortunately given the volume needed to get those produced at a reasonable price. It aint happening. Even with a group buy we'd probably need everyone to buy 20 or so each. Of course if anyone has connections at a bolt and screw company that will do low volume stuff in A286, please speak up.

The easier alternative might be to drill the center housing of the turbo's threaded holes and helicoil it to 5/16 x 24 at which point you could use a reduced head version of an AN5-51 aircraft bolt. (Don't have the part # handy but it's probably a NAS bolt anyway in A286). That's honestly the best option to get the best material for the application. Unfortunately the thought of rethreading the center section of the turbo doesn't thrill me nor does using imperial measurement crap, but the logistics of the aerospace industry mean that imperial measurement based fasteners probably aren't going anywhere in the forseeable future. As I understand it, it would basically cost a fortune to recertify everything into metric equivalents. Really a shame although hopefully with most american cars using metric fasteners now too there might be a faint glimmer of hope at least. On the upside, regular aerospace bolts are significantly less expensive than metric ones. (hell they're still probably cheaper than 22+ bucks for the long turbo bolt from the dealer).

If you went to studs you could most likely use some MS21042-5 self locking "jet nuts" or an H20-5 12 point locknut. They're pretty reasonable at under a couple bucks each. Arguably with some halfway decent studs you wouldn't even need to get A286 for the studs since you're not faced with stripping out the internal socket's hex, it still wouldn't hurt as the application lends itself to corrosion with the temperatures of the turbo. Probably overkill but you'd never again have to worry about stripping those damn things out and I think that's something we all like the idea of. Might also make it so less things need to be removed to pull the turbo as a standard 12 point socket could get in there with a universal joint. Hmm I'm liking the idea of rethreading the center housing more and more.

Mikeaagesen

z3bra,

Well I just found some bolts in the hex design that looked the same length of the original mounting bolts. Now that I think of it though, I probably should have used a washer between the mount and the bolt head. Maybe thats why its leaking oil in the first place?

z3bra

That could definitely cause you to leak oil if the o-ring under the bearing housing doesn't have enough pressure applied evenly to seal properly. I had to special order the bolts at about 2 bucks each just for the standard grade 12.9 metric ones. I've been trying to dig up some 5/16" A286 rod to make some studs instead as I think combined with some all metal lock nuts like I mentioned earlier that would be the easiest way to go about rethinking the maintainence problem the Porsche engineers were kind enough to throw in our laps. I'll just get some 8x1.25 cheapie threaded rod and test fit it but if that fits ok then I'll probably take the plunge and switch it over to studs for good. Again I'm not thrilled about chucking the metric for fractional fasteners but I can make threaded studs pretty easy and finding reduced diameter metric nuts is tough.