shmark

Got a couple of problems and looking for some diagnostic help. I'm virtually certain I need to replace both ball joints and here's why. Consisent clunk from the front end, getting worse over time. At first it was just over speed bumps but now I get the clunk just driving low speed through the neighborhood and weaving from side to side. Turn right, clunk from the left. Turn left, clunk from the right. I'm looking at the Rennbay kits, which one should I get? I'll be tracking my car a few days a year, autocrossing a few days as well, otherwise just an aggressive street driver. I'm considering either the Super Deluxe or the Track kit.

On the a/c compressor, the clutch won't activate when the button is pressed. I have a light on the button and the relay is clicking like it should. Next in line is the low-pressure switch. Where is it located? It may be that I simply need freon, but this system was freshly serviced and working well last summer, according to the PO and I have no reason to doubt him.

Jeremy Himsel

The clunking sound you are getting is quite possibly (and likey) bad struts. Jack the car up and see how much free play you have in the ball joints. I'l be willing to bet if you look at your struts, you will see evidence of fluid leaking out the top.

shmark

Both struts? I did check them and the dust boots are pretty much toast and it looks like the bump stops are gone too. I also put a channel lock on the ball joint and was able to get a tiny bit of play in them.

Jeremy Himsel

If they're original, they are gone by now. Did you check the sway bar bushings as well.

ehall

AHHH the infamous clunk. See Jeremy's advice above. You might also check your wheel bearing sdjustment while you're there.

shmark

Sway bar bushings are perfect, wheel bearings are less than 3k old and check tight. I'm getting under there again today and will take another look at the struts. Bummer. Where's the best place to pick up new ones?

[edit] What about rebuilding? I've got Koni yellows up front, how much to rebuild?

hosrom_951

Lift the car, grab hold of a wheel (front passenger and/or driver) and try moving it up/down and left/right..........

Rob

Also check out the upper strut mounts. Mine were bad and caused simular problems.

shmark

Yep, that's how I check 'em. They are fine, so the problem is either strut or ball joint. Checking the upper strut mounts now.

shmark

I used a jack to raise and lower the driver's side strut and I don't think I have a strut mount problem. The clunk is coming from the lower frame around the control arm. I'm able to grab the shock body and no free play or rattle at all. Ball joint also seems ok but the boot is split. However...

The rear control arm bushing is clearly shot and has a strange scab-spacer installed you can see here. Also noticed the driver and passenger control arms are radically different - anyone tell me why the arms are so different?

[edit] Looks like I have an upgraded 968 caster block on the driver's side, and a back-dated pre-'86 caster block on the passenger side. Hmmm.

shmark

In frustration and not wanting an expensive problem, I figured I'd at least eliminate one possible source. So I disconnected the drop links and went for a quick drive around the neighborhood. The clunk is gone! Now I just need to figure out why it was doing it. The bushings look great, not sure why it's having a problem.

Travis - sflraver

That doesn't eliminate the ball joints though. The clunk is usually from the sway bar lifting up on one arm causing the ball joint pin to compress the internal spring. On release the ball comes up and reseats itself. If there is enough play for this to happen its time to do ball joints.
Checking them is as easy as taking the tire off and removing the pinch bolt. Pry the pinch and pull the ball joint pin out of the spindle. Check it by hand and you can stop guessing. Probably easier than dropping the sway bar links, which you have already done.

shmark

Yep I am going to replace the ball joints anyway, since the boots are split (be giving you a call shortly ). However after completely removing the sway bar I found the problem. Between the drop links being unequal and the 6mm hex bolts being slightly loose on the sway bar mount, it's no wonder I was getting a clunk. I went through everything, tightened all bolts progressively and amazingly enough, no more clunk.