What kind of plugs do you guys use ??
03-31-2005, 01:24 PM
#2
Drifting
I've heard from several professional mechanics to stick w/ silver plugs for turbos. Not sure the brand matters, but Beru and Bosch make good plugs. I've only used Bosch's.
03-31-2005, 03:21 PM
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Phoenix, AZ - NJ Runaway
Posts: 3,649
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Plain old NGK BPR7ES (1 range colder). I doubt anyone has ever seen a verified HP or fuel economy increase by running a more "expensive" plug.
At the last company I worked for, the President was the VP of engineering @ Champion (we used to call him sparky). We had a conversation over lunch one day about plugs and he told me that the glitzy plugs generally offer no real drivability benefits as they were really designed to 1. reduce change and gap intervals and 2. incorporate "precious" metals for marketing purposes to charge more over the counter. He did mention that the NGK V-power was a good design (essentially the opposite of a split-fire and he wished he would have come up with it) as it helps unshroud the flame. Take it for what it's worth.
At the last company I worked for, the President was the VP of engineering @ Champion (we used to call him sparky). We had a conversation over lunch one day about plugs and he told me that the glitzy plugs generally offer no real drivability benefits as they were really designed to 1. reduce change and gap intervals and 2. incorporate "precious" metals for marketing purposes to charge more over the counter. He did mention that the NGK V-power was a good design (essentially the opposite of a split-fire and he wished he would have come up with it) as it helps unshroud the flame. Take it for what it's worth.
Last edited by Jeremy Himsel; 03-31-2005 at 03:40 PM.
Trending Topics
03-31-2005, 03:48 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 1,598
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NGK Iridium BR6ES. If you take a look at some turbo books you'll find that most if not all recommend that you stay away from protruded plugs (the P in the part number) due to the creation of a hot spot. If my memory serves, I believe that TonyG also saw a few HP increase when going from Bosch to NGK (of course he has a 400+HP car...so not really apples to apples).
04-01-2005, 08:49 AM
#11
Rennlist Member
Mike S: I have read the very same thing in both turbo books and ignition books (ie by Dr. Jacobs) about staying away from projected tip plugs in forced induction cars (puts electrode ~ 3/16" into the combustion chamber) whereas the Regular(non-projetced) tip plugs position the electrode ~1/16" into the cc. I know these are common rule with Nitrous and other forced induction engines. I am going to try NGK BR7ES, or BR7EY's in the Callaway. And perhaps run a stock heat range for street and keep the colder plugs for track time. And a plus is they are more readily available (at least around here) then the BPR7ES plugs. Anyone ever try these? I seen on Lindsey's site that they reccomend a non-projected tip plug for 951's in NGK fashion (BR-7EIX).
04-01-2005, 11:24 AM
#12
Rennlist Member
Which Plugs
I spoke with Wes at Lindsey Racing yesterday and he said that he saw a HP increase on the dyno just switching from the Bosch W7DC's to NGK V-Power plugs. He said that he felt that the NGK plugs are superior and better suited to a Turbocharged engine. He could not remember the exact NGK number off the top of his head but he did say that the V-Groove plug wsa the one to go with.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
04-01-2005, 11:30 AM
#13
Nordschleife Master
NGK BPR7ES here. Will try the V-power when I change my plugs next.
Others have said to stay away from the platinum tipped plugs, are they are plated and not truely solid. Ergo they can chip off and cause damage inside the chamber.
Others have said to stay away from the platinum tipped plugs, are they are plated and not truely solid. Ergo they can chip off and cause damage inside the chamber.
04-01-2005, 11:33 AM
#14
Drifting
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Taiwan
Posts: 2,101
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm running HKS iridium. Forgot the part no,
but is the equivilant of the NGK BPR7ES.
Expensive but I just have to try it to see if it
made any difference especially with all the
hoo-haa about iridium plugs.
but is the equivilant of the NGK BPR7ES.
Expensive but I just have to try it to see if it
made any difference especially with all the
hoo-haa about iridium plugs.
04-01-2005, 11:40 AM
#15
Originally Posted by ENGINEERMAN
He could not remember the exact NGK number off the top of his head but he did say that the V-Groove plug wsa the one to go with.
This is what NGK lists for our cars......
1988 PORSCHE 944 2.5 L4 M44 FI TURBO
Spark Plug Part No. Stock No. Gap
Standard BPR6ES 7131 .028
V-Power BPR6EY 6427 .028
G-Power Platinum BPR6EGP 7084 .028
Iridium IX BPR6EIX 6637 .028
Why do some of you run the 7 series and is the higher the number the colder the plug?
Answered it myself.
from the NGK website:
A spark plug's heat range has no relationship to the actual voltage transferred though the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors; the length of the ceramic center insulator nose and its' ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat, the material composition of the insulator and center electrode material.
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.
Heat rating and heat flow path of NGK Spark Plugs
The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling. Whether the spark plugs are fitted in a lawnmower, boat, or a race car, the spark plug tip temperature must remain between 500C-850°C. If the tip temperature is lower than 500°C, the insulator area surrounding the center electrode will not be hot enough to burn off carbon and combustion chamber deposits. These accumulated deposits can result in spark plug fouling leading to misfire. If the tip temperature is higher than 850°C the spark plug will overheat which may cause the ceramic around the center electrode to blister and the electrodes to melt. This may lead to pre-ignition/detonation and expensive engine damage. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one heat range to the next is the ability to remove approximately 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. A projected style spark plug firing tip temperature is increased by 10°C to 20°C.