porshhhh951

Okay heres my take. 951 can be dragged...but, they arent as effective at it as others.

If you are set on taking the 951 to the strip. Do so. I have been to ennis raceway in mine 4 times now. My car has turbo S 1st and 2nd gears along with steel syncro's....to add to the rebuild. I would recomend going with the turbo S gears as well. A serious clutch is a must. Upgrade your axels(I got brand new ones) Make sure your cv's are in good shape and have fun.

Slip the clutch a little more than instinct tells you and this will help. Once I do finally get my new clutch in I plan on going back to the strip before the new turbo. I want to show that 300rwhp will get a 12 sec timeslip all day long. Hell some guys on here are running mid 14's with multiple mods. I ran a 14.0 STOCK. I could of gotten a high 13 had I really set the car up with a good set of dr's.

The 1/4 is all about the first 300ft. Everything after that is hp. So if you have a local place to pratice launching I suggest you get at it. Launching a 951 is nothing like launching a GM or mustang.

I have video of me running the 1320 stock but, that footage is so old now i want to get new stuff. When I hit the 1/4 this summer I will make sure to post my findings. I figure the spec clutch will hold just fine. Pray I dont blow out another cv....grrrrr

porshhhh951

oh and btw....I wouldnt spray in 1st. lol. wait till 2nd hits.

DanaT

I am actually very happy that this thread hasn’t taken the flame war direction. That’s good thing.

I guess to follow-up this thread, I should probably say that I have “drag-raced” my 951 at the local strip before so I am not really afraid of hurting it. Did I have the best 60 foot times. No. I was in th 2.3-2.5 second range. I need to be 1.9-2.0 to be doing well. However, my launch technique leaves a little to be desired, but its not really abusing the car. Basically I hold the car at 5000rpm on the line and dump the clutch. Yeah, I get tire spin, but it seems to be pretty consistent. Launching at low RPM bogs the car and trying to slide the clutch isn’t too consistent.

I guess that to go back one step I need to define “drag racing”. I would break drag racing down into a few different types of “racing”.

There is good old fashioned heads-up (i.e. grudge racing). In this type of racing there is all the smack talking, etc, etc, two cars line and get the green light at the same time. This is real racing. It doesn’t matter what time/speed you run, you have to get across the line first. You can have the faster car, but if you sleep at the light, you will loose. This is also professional level style racing.

Next in the order is “bragging racing”. This is what most people do. They go out on test nights and want to post the lowest ET and/or highest trap speed. This is time skip racing only to have bragging rights. In this type of racing R/T doesn’t really matter and in many cases trying to hit a low R/T can actually hurt a run. Basically with this, leave the line when you are comfortable. It doesn’t affect E/T if you wait 5 seconds after the green light or even if you red light.

Finally, last on the list is what most racers actually race in; bracket racing. Bracket racing is all about consistency and not speed/low ET. There are many strategies for bracket racing. Sometimes it is better to actually sandbag it and run slower on a slower dial-in. You then stay just ahead of your opponent and let them loose race instead of you winning the race. The other thing that you do on bracket, if you are ahead at the end, is to slow down so as to ensure that you won’t break out. Bracket racing was designed to even the playing field. It works pretty well as long as you aren’t racing someone with electronics. Consistency is the name of the game, not speed.

On my 951 I have run a 14.3at103mph at 5800ft and a 90 degree day. Take these numbers with a grain of salt as they are not directly comparable to most tracks. To put this in perspective, my friends 32V mustang cobra turned a 15.5 at 88mph at the same track and maybe a little cooler day. One of the “hp goals” for the C5 vette boys at that track is to break a 100mph ¼ mile. So, my 951 has posted times and ET that are faster and lower (respectively) than most vettes, mustangs, and camaros post. However the highly modified American muscle is still the fastest/quickest.

Also, when I run at the track, I follow some self-imposed rules that hurt times but not really speed. Regardless if I have run a stock vehicle or a motorcycle on nitrous I have followed my rules. My rule is that I run in a “true street” setup. What does this mean? It mean that I don’t deflate tires for more traction. I don’t run my shocks full soft for better weight transfer. I don’t have a set of drag radials or MT E/Ts to swap on. Basically, I run the vehicle just as I have driven it to the event (or when I have trailered a motorcycle I still run it just as I drive it on the street). Yes, I could go faster by changing easy to change stuff, but that is not how I drive my vehicles around. I want to run them exactly as I do on the street. That is just me.

As far as the nitrous, I want to run it and I am trying to justify to myself that its OK to run and hook up the kit that I have taking up space in the garage. However, there is a part of me that says “no”. I have run nitrous safely for a long time but I have ZERO experience with nitrous in a turbo application. A screw-up on a 951 engine (i.e. learning curve) could be very expensive. That is why I am batting around water injection and/or spraying the intercooler. I think I can get some more power out of the car and have it be “safer” power. I wouldn’t crank up the boost (I am already running 19psi), just run “better” boost.

Some of my obsession is also coming from having to stay ahead of friends/co-workers. Basically, a co-worker has a Shelby GLHS that he thought was really fast for a 4-cylinder turbo car. He was always giving me crap about the Porsheeeeeee and how slow they are. We went down to the local strip. Lets just say, that it wasn’t even close. I beat him by over 2 seconds in the ¼ mile. This realy PO’d him because he is a total mopar guy and actually has a street (drag) race car that runs 9s (at altitude). He is big time into drag racing and have someone who does it for fun on a limited basis beat him set him off onto getting more power. Over the winter he has taken that little car and totally built the engine (custom everything: pistons, cams, head, etc) plus bigger turbo (t3/t4), etc. He is now making a little over 280 fwhp in a light car. He will be running 25psi of boost (when he gets it working right) and “estimates” over 320fwhp. He wants a rematch. I don’t want to loose to a little 1980s econobox with peeling paint and simulated leather interior. This is some of what is driving me for more power.

-Dana

ztnedman1

lol he raced you where he wanted now take him to where you want and really stick it to him ahaha.

toddk911

"Uncorrected - you will get more power at 32 degrees than at 80 degrees"

Which means real world power.

special tool

Yes

Helstrm

So who here runs Water Injection? After reading up on it, It sounds like it is a good idea to drop intake temps and lessen the chance for detonation. Even the cost is pretty low. Kits starting under $200 and a dual stage kit for around $300.

Will this increase HP? I have no clue. But it sounds like a dual stage system. 1 Injector in the intake right by the throttle body and another in the return line from the IC. I may add this to my project. $$$$$$ I need to stop reading Either way I ordered 75lb Fuel injectors so I know I will have enough fuel in the mix and I am going to attempt the "CRAP" Mod Thanks to NZ951.... Now if I can locate all the rubber strips you used.

toddk911

"It sounds like it is a good idea to drop intake temps and lessen the chance for detonation."

That's exactly what the military thought even 50 years ago.

Helstrm

Yup and it worked....

DivineE

I'd just like to add that I also like your ideas. I will say that the phrase "not suited to drag racing" does have some backing with the 944 that noone else has mentioned yet and thats the fact that the turbo has a 51/49 front to rear wieght split and reletively stiff suspension because it was intended to be fast on a track, which you know better than I do is not good for launching. Likewise though civics can run quick times so lets not get confused! Obviously as shown in the M3 example earlier in the post this doesn't have a bit effect on a standard car which suffers lots of lag and not enough power its only when your trying to go really quick that you need worry about wieght and springs. Since these parts and the gearbox/ drive train can be replaced, the real reason there are no 944's running under 10seconds is because noone spends the sort of money you need to achieve that! How many 944's have short ratio sequential boxes?? Exactly its too expensive! But I say if you spend the same money on a 944 as your co-worker has spent on his shelby you'll knock him down and wipe the floor with him no problem + you'll have an evily fast road rocket! Then you can fit the NOS.

Ben

Helstrm

Okay a mechanic just told me that water injection can also cause rust issues in the exhaust and could cause issues with the rings as well. Not sure what I think about that. Time to google...

hrk

I have been running water injection for coule of years now.
I have water sparyed over 11 psi of boost, my max is only 14, so I don't really need it, I just wanted to experiment with it.
No problems, other than worn throttle shaft lets TPS to get wet on (road) track where 80-90% of the time car is on boost and water is put in. New seals are going in this year.
Car dynoed 212 on the rear wheels without water and 208 with water. Water displaces some of the air so if you don't crank the boost up you lose hp.
I haven't experimented with boost levels, I just turn it on for a lap or two to clean up the engine and on very hot days at the track.
hrk

porshhhh951

Your not too far off the pace. I turn a 2.0-2.1. It's hard to cut a really good 60ft on street tires running 32psi

A set of BFG or Nitto's running 17psi will hook much better. Ahh here's comes the breaking. Our cars just arent built for it. If you change a few things though I dont see any reason why you can't meet or even exceed your goals.

There are some guys on here with plenty of drag racing expeirence in their 951's. Rage has multiple video's. Although he was having a serious problem with once again...traction. I think he was trapping 117 on his old old setup with like a 12.7 ET. I think you get good tires get away from the line good and with a 108-110 trap you could net a 12 sec run. Ofcourse from there where do you go. It just gets crazy expensive and parts just really arent cheep.

Goodluck with your project. It would be kinda werid to have a 951 in the 10's or low 11's....but, also kind of cool. So have fun with it

Dark Lightning

I ran water injection daily at 20+ psi for four years and never had such symptoms.

NZ951

Laust, Big John, B951S, and Darius have all run water injection of various types from custom to Snow to Aquamist. It wont rust your exhuast. Do you know how hot it is?!