Vacuum leak causing low boost? (UPDATE: Still low boost, TPS?)
#76
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Originally Posted by danny951
so that would explain why my CV is telling my KLR to pull ignition back and my boost back, right. And that's why it would be bad to just pull my CV!
#77
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But it is still a bad idea to delete the CV out of the system. It basically saved his engine. See my comments about this in a prior post.
Until you can put in a check engine light in these cars, the boost gauge is one of the gauges that will tell you that something is wrong (limiting boost to limp home values - 1.2bar absolute).
Dal.
Until you can put in a check engine light in these cars, the boost gauge is one of the gauges that will tell you that something is wrong (limiting boost to limp home values - 1.2bar absolute).
Dal.
#78
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right, that's what I was saying.. I'm glad I didn't just delete the CV and go on.. I would have been looking at some serious damage. good call Dal
#79
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well, I'm still without my car and so far my CV is good -- tests out just like a brand new one.. and now the culprit appears to be my stock AFM. Don is swapping it out with the one from his 88 Turbo S car to see if it helps the situation. He is going to call me back and explain what he things is happening... I'm assuming the AFM from the turbo and turbo S is the same?
#80
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alright, he cleaned the contacts on my original AFM and after driving a few minutes, he said the car just came alive. It boosts nearly to the 2 bar indicator on the stock gauge and drops down (like it should, stock) at 5800 RPM.. the master caution light that was coming on, he said is coming on with the oil pressure light. He checked the oil and I was a quart low, so he filled it and the light still came on, but only under hard acceleration and it would just blink on and off like a loose connection.. He did monitor the oil pressure gauge and it was steady at around 3 bar and raised to around 4.5 bar under acceleration like it should... so his opinion is that it's a loose wire or causing the light to come on, but no mechanical problem.
So, I pick it up probably tomorrow and I can't wait! I've got my new VDO boost gauge and my Guru chips to put in it and I'll be good to go!
So, I pick it up probably tomorrow and I can't wait! I've got my new VDO boost gauge and my Guru chips to put in it and I'll be good to go!
#83
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So did you pick it up already??
I am off wed. and thurs. this next week we need to gtg soon homie!
i'll have my iceshark light kit in 2 weeks wanna come over to the house and help me install it? lol.
If you want I can stock the fridge with nice beverages...
I am off wed. and thurs. this next week we need to gtg soon homie!
i'll have my iceshark light kit in 2 weeks wanna come over to the house and help me install it? lol.
If you want I can stock the fridge with nice beverages...
#84
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yeah I picked it up Friday.
Icesharkes? sweet. definately, I'll be there... that way I can see if I like the difference (well of course I will haha).
just let me know when -- did you get the driving lights too?
Icesharkes? sweet. definately, I'll be there... that way I can see if I like the difference (well of course I will haha).
just let me know when -- did you get the driving lights too?
#85
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nah just the full foglight kit. I wont be placing the order for another week and a half but, dan is saving a set for me so its all good.
#86
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danny; how did don test the cv? i'm having identical problems and so far i've eliminated;
-vacuum leaks
-bov
-tps
if the cv is 'bad', would this cause the problem?
also, where did you crimp off the wastegate line to test it? from under the car or above?
i'd also be interested in how to test and/or clean the afm. thanks.
-vacuum leaks
-bov
-tps
if the cv is 'bad', would this cause the problem?
also, where did you crimp off the wastegate line to test it? from under the car or above?
i'd also be interested in how to test and/or clean the afm. thanks.