Vacuum Leak + Lean Idle + Gas Smell + 3 BAR FPR = ???
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Vacuum Leak + Lean Idle + Gas Smell + 3 BAR FPR = ???
I finally got around to putting my new motor mounts in (HUGE difference) and for anyone considering doing this, I highly recommend it. I also put in a boost/vacuum gauge, and an air/fuel ratio gauge, as well as Laust's Neat As Hell (TM) vacuum manifold, with the boost gauge on port five. I also had installed a 3BAR FPR some time ago, in anticipation of getting the 38mm TiAL and Vitesse chips that I only just recently (read: a week ago) purchased. I've since read that getting a 3BAR FPR without getting chips to compensate can cause you to run rich, and I had been noticing a lot of black soot on my car's rear end, and also a distinct gas smell. I thought, hmm, I'm running rich, no biggy, it'll fix itself once I put in the new chips. Anyways, now my vacuum gauge is only showing 12ish hg (I think it should be around 18 or 20) and I've replaced a decent number of the vacuum lines and the IC pipe clamps and such.. Also, my rennbay A/F gauge is showing only the third bar from left (red, and also really lean) while I'm still getting this gas smell. Any ideas?
TIA,
Jeff
TIA,
Jeff
#2
Site Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: A great big building in the woods, FL.
Posts: 6,527
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
You may have clogged up the O2 sensor from running rich. Try unplugging it at the fire wall and see what happens. I run the NA without an 02 sensor hooked up at all. (Wideband with the DME input disconnected). It shows a little rich but it runs good. 13.4 is where it settles usually.
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 881
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'll try that... Also, just to see what happened, whenever I tried unhooking any of the other vacuum lines (to the fpr, or bov, etc) it does virtually nothing to the idle, it may go up a tad... I'm idling around 900 or so rpm.. I just tried adjusting it, and it seems fairly solid now.. Hopefully soon I'll replace the o-rings on my t-body and also do Jeremy Himsel's suggestion of putting JB Weld on the ICV..
Also, when its idling cold, should it show more lean than when its idling warm? KThx,
Jeff
Also, when its idling cold, should it show more lean than when its idling warm? KThx,
Jeff
#4
Intermediate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I, too have a Rennbay A/F meter and it shows the same thing although the display is not reading the O2 correctly. My display drops an LED when I turn on the headlights and other electrics...or even drops off full-lean (red bar on far left). With the car on idle, the voltage at the battery is 13.68 but that drops to 12.4 with highbeams and rear defroster on. I'm having my shop check the alternator this week...maybe that's your prob too??
#5
Site Sponsor
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: A great big building in the woods, FL.
Posts: 6,527
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
3 Posts
For readout variations that change with headlight on you may need to find another ground to attach the gauge to. They use a 5v regulator for the power side but if you are getting some noise on the ground it can throw off the reading. You may want to hook it directly to a ground point on the fire wall or the ground wire for the DME. Most of the time you are ok hooking into the ground of the old clock harness but sometimes it needs something more stable.