Kelly Chiu

Living in CA we have the lovely smog check requirement. My car's number is up and I need a smog certification to renew my registration. I am pretty sure it will pass. It is stock condition, the exception being the exhaust system..

My dilemma is that my clutch needs replacement soon. My clutch slips anytime you get into boost hard. I am sure the rolling portion of the exam won't slip the clutch, but I feel it should be replaced anyways. I have budgeted up to 2k to get the clutch fixed this year. I am leaning about 60% towards having a shop do the work... but I like the idea of trying to do this myself.

If I were to embark on a DIY approach, I would look at dropping the engine, resealing, cleaning and belt change in addition to the clutch.

What are the required and recommend tools to get this done? I am thinking of renting an engine hoist. Whats the best way to get the car 21+ in. above the ground? I have my parent's garage indefinately. If I were to seriously get started in mid Feb. to March about how long will it take? I am not that mechanically inclined, but expect to learn allot on the way.. I have read and re-read the procedure from Clark's Garage as well as the factory manuals. In paragraph form it doesn't look like that much work, but the actual labor will likely be allot more.

After factoring in the cost of the clutch parts and a new air compressor, impact wrench and sockets, thats already about $1200. The tools obviously can and will be reused, so those costs could be written-off eventually. Is an engine drop too daunting for someone by themelves who has only done something up to a brake job? I have not done any suspension work before, or used and engine lift, but it can't be that hard right? Course I have been to some West Coast Wrenching Parties and picked up allot while watching and doing.

So whats your advice? Spend extra money, have it done professionally? Spend almost as much money and get new tools and experience? Any other advice I should know about?

Summing up the post:

Should I replace the clutch myself?
If yes, is this something one person can do?
What tools will be required?
Whats the safest way to get the car into the air 21+ in and supported?
Whats a realistic time frame for one person with no experience to get this done?

Charlotte944

Kelly:

Unless you are going to do a complete engine rebuild I don't see any reason to remove it as there will be plenty of room to reseal the front end with the engine in place.

As for replacing the clutch, set aside A LOT of time.

You will need:
Floor jack
Four jackstands
Torque wrench
8mm 12 point "cheese head" "Allen" wrench for CV bolts.
Metric wrenches with more than one 13mm, 17mm, and 19mm wrench (I have TWO complete sets)
3/8" and 1/2" drive ratchets, extensions (multiple legnths), "wobbel" or universal joints, and metric sockets.
Metric Allen Wrenches.
1/2" drive "Breaker Bar"
Decent work light
Safety glasses
pneaumatic grinder w/cut off wheels
NOTE: Exhaust bolts/nuts will be particularly difficult. The p-grinder and cutting wheel is your friend!
Leather work gloves
PB Blast or Liquid Wrench (I used LW for years, but now I swear by PB Blast)
CV joint grease (may as well clean and re-grease while the axels are out.)
HI Temp Bearing grease for transaxel input shaft and torque shaft splines.
Long 8mm x 1.25 bolt nut and washers for extracting clutch fork pivot pin.
Zip Lock parts bags.
Digital camera to document your progress and where parts go.
Fine wire brush for cleaning electrical connections (engine /bell housing grounds and starter/solenoid connections)

Other than the front engine seals, belts, rollers and clutch kit (pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch disk), you will need new exhaust hardware (nuts, bolts, washers) new exhaust header to X-over pipe seals, down pipe to CAT seals, and a CAT to muffler seal. You may also to get a new rear main seal just to be on the safe side.

Before you actually start the job, I HIGHLY recommend giving the under carriage and exposed drive train a good cleaning. I use Gunk Engine Brite and a garden hose or pressure washer.

Once you have the cleaning done, put the car on jackstands (two under the front cross member and one under each trailing arm carrier, in front of the rear wheel just out board of the trailing arm spring plate), and soak every nut and bolt with PB Blast. Let this soak over night and reapply the PB Blast just prior to actual disassembly.

One thing that can cost a lot of time and effort (besides getting the tranny out) is pulling the clutch release for pivot pin.

The pin is held in place with a small bolt and lock nut. Be sure to soak these with PB Blast, and then completely remove the locking bolt. Spray PB Blast liberally into the bolt hole. The end of the release pin is threaded to accept an 8mm x 1.25 bolt.

To get the pin out you need to put a deep socket over the threaded end, and then install the long bolt with a couple of washers and the nut. Bottom out the bolt, but do not over torque. Hold the bolt with a wrench and use a second wrench to tighten the nut, pulling the pin in the process.

Bengt Sweden

I would add a workshop manual and an "experienced friend" to the list.
Bengt

Rob 3

www.clarks-garage.com has a procedure to follow to change the clutch, its about 6 pages long. Go to the website and use the search feature, type in clutch replacement, and you can see the procedure in text form.

PorscheDoc

Clarks garage procedure follows it almost exactly. There was one step that i think can be done better, and that is dropping the tranny itself. It is a lot easier to leave it attached to the crossmember and remove the fuel lines that attach to the filter, and just undo the 2 17mm bolts and bring it out as one unit, that saves trying to get those stupid little 13mm bolts where the tranny attaches to the crossmember in and out. Much easier when putting it back in, since the 17mm bolts are long and you have more room to play with. I have done a few, and i dont think you need any aircompressor or air tools, unless you really want them. One of those luxuries you really dont need to drop money on, unless you just want to have them around. Get the clutch accessory kit from lindsey racing for 65 bucks, that has the rear main, alignment tool, FW bolts, PP bolts, Guide sleeve, Clutch fork bearings, and pilot bearing. All in one shot. then get your main clutch kit with the PP, Disc, and TOB. You will also need new exhaust crush seals (4) for the crossover pipe and exhaust pipe. Wobbles (universal joints) and lots of long extensions make this job alot easier, along with a flex head rachet. Hardest part is laying on your back for hours at a time trying to hold your neck up. If you can get a buddy to just sit there and hand you tools while you lie under the car, it is worth a lot of time.

Kelly Chiu

Thanks for the advice guys.

I have the workshop manuals... the procedures outlined don't LOOK too tough. The emphasis is on the word look is purely speculative on my end.

Leaving the engine in is probably a better idea, but dropping the tranny seems like just as much work. I am warming to the idea of doing this myself, what would be a reasonable time to allow for this procedure. I am assuming work to be done only on the weekends as its shaping to be late nights at the office until this Boeing project gets through the building department.

My major concern is missing something. There seems to be allot of stuff that has to be removed put back onto the car. The plastic bags labeled seem to be a good idea, but there is always something that you miss. Also how can you test the operation of the newly installed clutch while the car is still apart so you know it works without having to take everything apart a second time? Basically how do you insure your work is done properly without putting the car together? Or is this a really dumb question?

Rob 3

Not a dumb question if you haven't done it before. Clarks Garage says 24 hours to do the job, so maybe a hard three day weekend with loooonnnngggg nights. I haven't done one my self on these, but in general with something like this, you have to put it together to find out if it'll work or not. Take your time, study the drawings and reread the procedure. Take pictures as you take it apart if you are concerned about something. Labelled baggies is a good idea of you don't want to lose or mix things.

Dave951M

Dropping the tranny is NOWHERE near as much work as dropping the engine. With the car in the air, it can be done in about 1.5hrs. The real fight will be with the bellhousing, removing the clutch fork has to be done first and the pin it rides on is often stubborn. This isn't a job that you can't do with some tools and patience. Get some help and take your time. Budget about a week minimum, working every night and each weekend if you've never done this before.