new to 951
01-28-2005, 08:20 PM
#32
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Fresh to me means the bottom end is pretty close to perfect, and/or new, as well as things like hoses, vaccuum lines, injectors, valves, t-belt, turbo shaft bearing, etc. It's just an issue of increasing every type of stress on an old engine. If the major issues have been sorted out already, then go for it. If you're a gambler, afterall, it's your money, then go for it either way. Also check the fuel lines. Our cars sometimes have fires as a result of the stock fuel lines. General stuff like that.
01-28-2005, 08:29 PM
#33
Track Day
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yes the major issues are being delt with, the belly pan gasket was leaking, so that is also being done, and my mechanic told me that since he was at it, it was wise to replace the bearings with the mods coming. everything is checked and repaired/replaced if necessary (I got the car cheap fully aware I was going spend € with my mechanic)
01-28-2005, 09:36 PM
#34
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You're doing it the right way. 951 brakes are excellent if you keep good pads and rotors on them.
Don't forget about your front control arms, ball jts, and the updated castor blocks, the rear spring plate bushings, and sway bar bushings - all of these can really tighten up a car; accompanied by new shocks all around and front springs of course. good luck with the project. If you copy and paste the link in my sig on JAB Racing, you can see how the rear spring plate bushings were all worn and deformed over time, which made me do my own street car.
Don't forget about your front control arms, ball jts, and the updated castor blocks, the rear spring plate bushings, and sway bar bushings - all of these can really tighten up a car; accompanied by new shocks all around and front springs of course. good luck with the project. If you copy and paste the link in my sig on JAB Racing, you can see how the rear spring plate bushings were all worn and deformed over time, which made me do my own street car.
01-30-2005, 02:37 PM
#35
Track Day
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Spent too much money on regular maintenance so I’m on a smaller budget now for the upgrades, but then again I now have new rotors, pads, shocks, belts and a lot of smaller items
I’m lowering my initial goal of 300 rwhp to about 250, what would it take to get there without exceeding 15 psi with the k26-6?
jummie
has anyone done this?
I’m lowering my initial goal of 300 rwhp to about 250, what would it take to get there without exceeding 15 psi with the k26-6?
jummie
has anyone done this?
01-30-2005, 04:23 PM
#36
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Factory AFM, Vitesse AFM chips, wastegate shims with accuboost or LR boost enhancer or DP wastegate with manual controller set to 15 psi, IIRC has yielded repeatable results of 245rwhp and 280+/- torque. I didn't read all the way through so I don't remember if you have AFM or MAF.
Last edited by Ski; 01-30-2005 at 04:43 PM.
01-30-2005, 06:19 PM
#38
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Usual,
“Please list a good upgrade path” is a request that has come up more than once, so here is the “boilerplate” listing, that I am following and will be more than happy to share:
The following assumes that all basic mechanicals are in tip top order (no ugly sounds, compression >135psi, recent timing belt, minimal fluid leaks, tight bushings and engine mounts, good shocks, wheels aligned, high temp brake fluid, no leaking exhaust, etc.).
1 Boost controller and remove cycling valve
2 Chips
3 Wastegate (good time to invest in and install boost and AFR gauges).
4 Thermal coating/wrapping/shielding (between engine and turbo) (+260 HP)
5 Larger injectors (72 lb) and better fuel pump (+ revised chips or change FQS setting if GURU chips)
6 MLS head gasket or O-ringed head with WFHG.
7 Port water injection (+ revised chips, +300 HP)
8 Water injection controller (+ revised chips, +310 HP)
9 Better brake cooling
10 Stiffer suspension (springs, shocks and sway bars)
11 Better aftermarket exhaust system with interchangeable “test pipe” (+ revised chips, +330 HP)
12 MAF or MAP system (+ revised chips, +350 HP)
13 Larger turbo (+ revised chips, ++400 HP)
Ad 1) allows for slightly more and better control of boost
Ad 2) removes boost limit and paves to way for following upgrades especially if GURU chips are chosen
Ad 3) the unmodified standard wastegate is a limiting factor for maximum boost
Ad 4) this gives potential for more boost and reduces turbo spool-up time, but is a also a benefit for reliability, keeping engine room temperatures down
Ad 5) OEM injectors and fuel pump limit the power to between 250 and 300 HP
Ad 6) the standard head gasket is a well-known weakness. Since this is a “soft” failure (if detected early) it may be OK to wait with the upgrade until the failure occurs
Ad 7) gives a minor direct power increase, but allows much higher boost without detonation (30 psi verified) and therefore major indirect power increase. This step only includes a pressure switch, which results in a too little water at high boost and high rpm
Ad 8) this gives the option to optimize the water injection for any rpm and load and should keep boost constant with rpm. Not as big of an advantage as initially thought.
Ad 9) with the added power it is now time to improve the brake cooling
Ad 10) the original suspension is quite soft and very marginal for the track
Ad 11) at these power levels a new exhaust gives good “bang for the buck”, especially if the original exhaust system is less than “as new”.
Ad 12) the standard induction system is now pushed to the limit and the AFM pushed beyond, making it difficult to program the chips to cover all load and rpm combinations. This also paves the way for a larger turbo
Ad 13) the K26-6 or-8 is now pushed to the limit at high rpm. The larger turbo will sacrifice low-end boost and spool-up time though
Each upgrade is built on prior steps with no need for part re-substitutions except for the chip upgrades, which seem to be unavoidable.
The frequent chip upgrades could be substituted with a stand alone engine management unit, but that too would need equally frequent software upgrades. Unfortunately its acquisition and installation cost would be much higher than the sum of the chip upgrades.
Well, this is my path with more emphasis on water injection than most. Danno and I are working on commercializing the port water injection, so everybody can have the same (safe) fun.
Laust
“Please list a good upgrade path” is a request that has come up more than once, so here is the “boilerplate” listing, that I am following and will be more than happy to share:
The following assumes that all basic mechanicals are in tip top order (no ugly sounds, compression >135psi, recent timing belt, minimal fluid leaks, tight bushings and engine mounts, good shocks, wheels aligned, high temp brake fluid, no leaking exhaust, etc.).
1 Boost controller and remove cycling valve
2 Chips
3 Wastegate (good time to invest in and install boost and AFR gauges).
4 Thermal coating/wrapping/shielding (between engine and turbo) (+260 HP)
5 Larger injectors (72 lb) and better fuel pump (+ revised chips or change FQS setting if GURU chips)
6 MLS head gasket or O-ringed head with WFHG.
7 Port water injection (+ revised chips, +300 HP)
8 Water injection controller (+ revised chips, +310 HP)
9 Better brake cooling
10 Stiffer suspension (springs, shocks and sway bars)
11 Better aftermarket exhaust system with interchangeable “test pipe” (+ revised chips, +330 HP)
12 MAF or MAP system (+ revised chips, +350 HP)
13 Larger turbo (+ revised chips, ++400 HP)
Ad 1) allows for slightly more and better control of boost
Ad 2) removes boost limit and paves to way for following upgrades especially if GURU chips are chosen
Ad 3) the unmodified standard wastegate is a limiting factor for maximum boost
Ad 4) this gives potential for more boost and reduces turbo spool-up time, but is a also a benefit for reliability, keeping engine room temperatures down
Ad 5) OEM injectors and fuel pump limit the power to between 250 and 300 HP
Ad 6) the standard head gasket is a well-known weakness. Since this is a “soft” failure (if detected early) it may be OK to wait with the upgrade until the failure occurs
Ad 7) gives a minor direct power increase, but allows much higher boost without detonation (30 psi verified) and therefore major indirect power increase. This step only includes a pressure switch, which results in a too little water at high boost and high rpm
Ad 8) this gives the option to optimize the water injection for any rpm and load and should keep boost constant with rpm. Not as big of an advantage as initially thought.
Ad 9) with the added power it is now time to improve the brake cooling
Ad 10) the original suspension is quite soft and very marginal for the track
Ad 11) at these power levels a new exhaust gives good “bang for the buck”, especially if the original exhaust system is less than “as new”.
Ad 12) the standard induction system is now pushed to the limit and the AFM pushed beyond, making it difficult to program the chips to cover all load and rpm combinations. This also paves the way for a larger turbo
Ad 13) the K26-6 or-8 is now pushed to the limit at high rpm. The larger turbo will sacrifice low-end boost and spool-up time though
Each upgrade is built on prior steps with no need for part re-substitutions except for the chip upgrades, which seem to be unavoidable.
The frequent chip upgrades could be substituted with a stand alone engine management unit, but that too would need equally frequent software upgrades. Unfortunately its acquisition and installation cost would be much higher than the sum of the chip upgrades.
Well, this is my path with more emphasis on water injection than most. Danno and I are working on commercializing the port water injection, so everybody can have the same (safe) fun.
Laust
