It burned up
01-21-2005, 12:36 AM
#18
Halon actually is corrosive, and vey toxic, I does get the job done better than chemical extinguishers. I personnaly carry a CO2 and Halon, so I have a choice. Small fire CO2, and I still have a backup.
I did salvage an engine that was put out with Halon, and there was corrosion on the block, in the intake, and even in the head. This is why I decided to carry both. The engine I bought had belts intact, with lots of plastic melted everywhere, it did get intothe interior, and poped tires. You may be lucky.
You will not Know if the engine is salvagable until you can remove the melted garbage from the aluminum. What you want to look for is crystalization of the aluminum. It will look like it's got bumps, or beads. If you see that the aluminum is garbage. It will not just affect the surface, as aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. More likely the fire will fry the head. If the block was in good condition, It might be worth it to but it back from insurance. Just make sure that you get a fair salvage value, then you can buy it back on speculation.
Good luck.
I did salvage an engine that was put out with Halon, and there was corrosion on the block, in the intake, and even in the head. This is why I decided to carry both. The engine I bought had belts intact, with lots of plastic melted everywhere, it did get intothe interior, and poped tires. You may be lucky.
You will not Know if the engine is salvagable until you can remove the melted garbage from the aluminum. What you want to look for is crystalization of the aluminum. It will look like it's got bumps, or beads. If you see that the aluminum is garbage. It will not just affect the surface, as aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. More likely the fire will fry the head. If the block was in good condition, It might be worth it to but it back from insurance. Just make sure that you get a fair salvage value, then you can buy it back on speculation.
Good luck.
01-21-2005, 02:51 AM
#19
Race Car
Thanks for the information on what to look for.
The plan is to pull the engine out, scrape as much of the burnt plastic off as possible, and take a very close look at it. I don't know what to use to get all of the melted plastic off. Hopefully the block is okay. I could probably go dig through some of the worst parts and take a close look, maybe I could tell whether it's salvageable or not?
The plan is to pull the engine out, scrape as much of the burnt plastic off as possible, and take a very close look at it. I don't know what to use to get all of the melted plastic off. Hopefully the block is okay. I could probably go dig through some of the worst parts and take a close look, maybe I could tell whether it's salvageable or not?
01-21-2005, 03:45 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by special tool
"waste time doing that"?? You are kidding, right?
You must be a young'n, dude
Those 4 inch lines are under tremendous pressure, and they want to straighten out everything in their path - take it from the ex-navy guy.
You can't just run a 4 inch line around someone's front bumper, kido.
You must be a young'n, dude
Those 4 inch lines are under tremendous pressure, and they want to straighten out everything in their path - take it from the ex-navy guy.
You can't just run a 4 inch line around someone's front bumper, kido.
01-21-2005, 03:57 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by DHC8FO
Halon actually is corrosive, and vey toxic, I does get the job done better than chemical extinguishers. I personnaly carry a CO2 and Halon, so I have a choice. Small fire CO2, and I still have a backup.
I did salvage an engine that was put out with Halon, and there was corrosion on the block, in the intake, and even in the head. This is why I decided to carry both. The engine I bought had belts intact, with lots of plastic melted everywhere, it did get intothe interior, and poped tires. You may be lucky.
You will not Know if the engine is salvagable until you can remove the melted garbage from the aluminum. What you want to look for is crystalization of the aluminum. It will look like it's got bumps, or beads. If you see that the aluminum is garbage. It will not just affect the surface, as aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. More likely the fire will fry the head. If the block was in good condition, It might be worth it to but it back from insurance. Just make sure that you get a fair salvage value, then you can buy it back on speculation.
Good luck.
I did salvage an engine that was put out with Halon, and there was corrosion on the block, in the intake, and even in the head. This is why I decided to carry both. The engine I bought had belts intact, with lots of plastic melted everywhere, it did get intothe interior, and poped tires. You may be lucky.
You will not Know if the engine is salvagable until you can remove the melted garbage from the aluminum. What you want to look for is crystalization of the aluminum. It will look like it's got bumps, or beads. If you see that the aluminum is garbage. It will not just affect the surface, as aluminum is an excellent conductor of heat. More likely the fire will fry the head. If the block was in good condition, It might be worth it to but it back from insurance. Just make sure that you get a fair salvage value, then you can buy it back on speculation.
Good luck.
Sounds more like they used an ABC monoamonium phosphate on it. Halon and Halotron-(IIRC) are the only FDA approved fire extinguishing agents on aircraft for their non-toxicity, best fire extinguishing potential and lack of cleanup required. Monoamonium phosphate is highly corrosive AND causes irritant from exposure. Halon is the only alternative for a car nut who loves his high risk automobile. The 944 could probably be considered high risk.
