toddk911

Also, I went to that site to search those parts and did not shoow up.

dhallilama

the constant bleed relieving is what the second regulator is...
first is prettymuch an adjustable relief valve. sounds damn confusing, and had me pulling out my hair for about a week.


as for the site, the search is weird... have to search the manufacturer's part #...
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNLMIP...07-200-RNEA260
and
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNLMIP...07-200-NNLA260

im interested in getting a better regulator (the second one) that's supposed to be more finely adjustable, though...
this one isnt bad, at all... but want to give the other a go. that one is made by metalcraft, in italy... there is a distributor somewhere in colorado or something... it was $26 or so, delivered COD to my door (havent ordered it yet).

Ryan B

Ok, what the hell, I'm convinced....

Dhallilama, do you have a line on the 'better' regulator (other than ordering it from Italy).

I'm REALLY curious about the vacuum to wastegate setup you mentioned...that way you can close up a wastegate at high RPMs when exhaust pressure is keeping it open but your boost is dropping... it would be an improvement over the $400 EBCs even!

How do you intend to control that electric 3-way valve (not the valet bypass, the one to send either vacuum or positive pressure)? Do you have an electronic pressure sensor hooked in??? Tell me its not a switch in the cabin...

also, why bother hooking into a vacuum canister (you indicated). You could use the original plumbing (assuming its still there) and go to the J-boot before the turbo...

dhallilama

i have a line on the 'better' metalcraft regulator... a distributor here in the US. i'll find the contact info...

the vacuum to wastegate setup... still a work in progress, dunno how well it'll truly work.... but in theory, it will.
controlling the electric valve: right now i have a pair POS mechanical switches and a relay. REALLY not comfy with this, and want a pair of electronic pressure sensors. the mechanical switches send 12v to the relay when they have pressure applied to them. when 12v is coming from just the intake side (on boost, nothing going to wastegate),the relay sends 12v to the valve to open for vacuum. when there is pressure present between the two regulators, switches the 12v from that pole on the valve to the other pole, switching the source back to pressure. problem right now is on engine vacuum, it shuts off the vacuum source to the wastegate, too. still workin on that part.

it seems to have held the wastegate shut better...
right now the whole rig is on my kitchen table, waiting refinement (car needs smog checked... didnt think they'd dig this setup under the hood).

i know there are a lot of things that could fail in this setup... but... it's a fun project

now... the J-boot connection for the vacuum source... um.... well.... didnt think of that. how much vacuum is present there?

Ryan B

I like where this is goin....ALOT!

In theory, the vacuum in the J-boot is dictated by the pressure the turbo is pumping out...somebody should know based on the spring rate of our standard AFM...my guess is that its somewhat close to opposite the pressure in the manifold. Probably, at 15 psi of boost there's almost that in vacuum inside the J-boot (I'm assuming its less because the J-boot is volumetrically larger than the inlet of the turbo).

Still, that actually might be TOO MUCH vacuum for the wastegate diaphram, and more than whats needed. SO, a little bleeder valve might be necessary to keep the pressure down.

SO, I have an idea...I'm drawing up a diagram, gonna run it by a buddy whos good with this crap.

I THINK, using the setup described by the Audi guys except instead of a one-way valve going back to before the relief valve it should lead to the vacuum via a vacuum regulator...do they make those (if not, I have a simple idea of how to make one, by reversing the spring and ball inside my reliaboost).

Tomas L

Sorry but the vacuum level in the J-boot will not be very high. If you have as much as 1 psi I suggest that you change air filter.

Ryan B

time to measure...I think I can rig that up this afternoon...

I'm betting there's more than 1psi...

dhallilama

the one-way valve isnt on mine when testing the vacuum setup (it would prettymuch not work at all with that one-way there).

i sure wish my car was over here, rather than 40 miles away at my house... have some time to blow today, wouldnt mind playing with it some more. interest is growing again, because of this post...

this is actually a project i started about 2 months ago, but keep getting side tracked with work, relationship, laziness...

as for the 'better' regulator...
it's made by Metal Work Pneumatics, Bit Regulator, 1/4", 0-30 psi.
Pneumatic Industrial Devices around los angeles (actually might be in orange) carries them for $19.80
not sure if they have a website, or not... but the sales guy's email address is: pete@hfwinc.com

i really want to get my hands on this better regulator and see how that goes.

Ryan B

OK, Thomas is right! (see, I can readily admit when I'm wrong )

And its obvious why: the intake shouldn't have any restriction on it, therefore there's no chance to generate a vacuum...

SO, back to vacuum canisters we go...

edit: I did actually generate around 1 or 2 psi when I pegged my boost at high rpm...note to those out there doing 18psi with stock intake...I think 15 or 16 psi is all she can handle without restriction. But, for those of us still using the stock AFM, 15psi is restrictionless...so no need to upgrade unless you need much more boost!

toddk911

OK, I'm ready to build one now

toddk911

You have a link for the new regulator?

toddk911

hello?

toddk911

Ok, placed my order for the 2 regulators

toddk911

Ok, got them last night. WOW, 1 day turnaround.

Just gotta get some hose and 1/4 fittings

toddk911

"the return valve... smaller one-way valve that dumps pressure back into the intake, relieving the wastegate... is just a $3 PCV valve from a local auto parts store. "

How does this differ from the DV/BOV ???