Ryan B

damn those avc-r units look nice...I think my desire to do this PROPERLY supercedes my desire to have a better boost controller IMMEDIATELY.

maybe I'll wait a year until I graduate and get one with the fuzzy logic business. Cheapest on ebay is like $350, except for a few used ones that have no 'buy it now' option, but I bet they'll be over $300 anyways.

ok, thanks for the discussion boys (hmm, just realized, no girls, no?)

dhallilama

ok, the parts im currently using....

Pressure relief valve (the first valve):
Norgren R07-200-RNEA260 $15.46

Pressure regulator (second valve):
Norgren V07-200-NNLA260 $15.94

Both bought through MSC Industrial Supply... MSCdirect.com

the springs inside both valves were replaced with softer ones... which i used the scientific method of "squeezing between my fingers" different springs at a local hardware store.
I do want to replace the regulator valve with a better one (like the article suggested), but dont know if it'll really make a difference.


the return valve... smaller one-way valve that dumps pressure back into the intake, relieving the wastegate... is just a $3 PCV valve from a local auto parts store. All the fittings and hose were bought at a local hardware store. Figure i had about $60 into this thing at that point.

I've made some further changes to it...
added a "valet" switch, which bypasses the unit all together and prettymuch only lets the boost hit like 4psi... using an extra electric solenoid i had around (next i want to limit the RPM's to something like 3k, but that's a different story).

added an additional electric solenoid downstream of it to dump off any pressure in the wastegate line if the pressure is lower <i>before</i> the boost controller (so, say during a shift)... and actually applying vacuum from a vacuum reservoir... in theory keeping the wastegate closed a little better. Or something that can fail real good and blow my motor up. one or the other. that part is a major work in progress...

toddk911

Looks like only about 40 bucks???

Any pics of it??

dhallilama

the fittings, hose, hose clamps and stuff all added up... plus tax and shipping... think it was pretty close to $60.

the electric solenoids were some old ones i had laying around.... i think from an air-horn setup.

i'll try to get some pics of it this weekend. it's all sorts of ugly, but... i dont care much about the "show" part of under the hood, as long as the "go" part is right.

here's a site i got some decent info from, too.... it's Audi TT related, but...
http://public.fotki.com/ttschwing/boost_machine_and/

toddk911

OK gotcha.

What is the purpose of the one way check valve???

toddk911

Could you do this with just the regulator valve and not use the relief valve?? Or is the relief to keep out boost spikes??

dhallilama

one way check valve... lets pressure off of the wastegate, back to the intake side... so the wastegate actually closes again.
As long as the pressure is greater BEFORE the boost controller (as in the controller is limiting pressure to the wastegate), the one way valve does nothing.... when the boost drops, and there is still pressure against the wastegate, the one way valve lets that pressure go back to the intake.

im taking that further, so that when there is meant to be no pressure on the wastegate, there is actually a bit of vacuum on it. not a clue if that will actually work, but...

dhallilama

the relief valve is to control the boost creep...
i first had just the regulator, and it was pretty good. adjustable boost, but felt pretty linear... as in the boost would climb up.
adding the relief valve, i can adjust the rate at which the boost comes on. i really like the kick-in-the-pants feeling of a whole lotta boost all at once... and the relief valve allows that to be adjusted. it's nice being able to turn it down in a second, too... like driving around in the rain, lately... so take that "suddenly on boost" feeling away, and keep the *** end of the car from sliding all around.

so... if the relief valve is set to not open until like 12psi:
under 12 psi, NO signal (pressure) goes to the wastegate... over 12, it does.

Just with a regulator, some pressure will hit the wastegate immediately, when boost starts.


in the end, given a choice i'd like to have a nice electronic boost controller...
but the cost...
plus this does (almost) everything i want it to, and has been fun to make/experiment with.
I'd really like cockpit adjustability, as well as not having to adjust it from time to time to keep the same boost levels as i drive in different weather/altitudes.

toddk911

Ok, very cool. So I definately wanna run the regulator

toddk911

Sorry, relief valve I mean.

toddk911

So without the check valve the WG will not close??

dhallilama

without the check valve, the WG closes, but not nearly as fast as it does with it.
the regulator will bleed the pressure off of the WG, but slowly...

this post is a hell of a lot more fun than actuallly working today

toddk911

Oh, sorry for all the quesitons.

But if this works like you say it does, I am stoked to get one made

dhallilama

there's a guy actually selling complete ones... more marketing them towards Audi's, but...
if i can find the link, ill post it. pretty sure he's wanting more like $150 though...
way cheaper to just make one yourself.

have heard of 'em being used on all sorts of turbo cars, but never another on a 951. i just love the thing.

no problem about the questions... like i said, beats the hell out of working... any excuse, really...

toddk911

What about regulators that are also Constant Bleed, Relieving??? Insted of running both types.