89 951 starting problem, need help ASAP!!
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hello, weird problem in my 951.
After I finish driving the car for around 20 minutes, I park the car, go to class, and come back in about 4 hours. When I try and start it, all it does is crank, and crank, and crank. What I have to do to get it to start is disconnect the negative battery terminal, and reconnect it. Then, when I try to start it, it fires right up..
Any ideas???
After I finish driving the car for around 20 minutes, I park the car, go to class, and come back in about 4 hours. When I try and start it, all it does is crank, and crank, and crank. What I have to do to get it to start is disconnect the negative battery terminal, and reconnect it. Then, when I try to start it, it fires right up..
Any ideas???
#2
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Clean the battery terminals and ground connections first, then try a new DME relay. The grounds are to the body in the battery box, and the two on the rear of the engine. There are others, but they run other circuits.
#5
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Is your tach bouncing when you are cranking? Pulling the negative cable, could have been enough movement to bump one of the reference sensor wires enough to start.
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Maybe the alarm system. The DME is powered down when the key is off. Karl point is well taken, when it is running, try wiggling the wires around the battery area and see if it quits.
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I had an alarm on my car which was installed with scotchlocks which damage the wiring. It's still not 100%, but removing it helped a lot. Every once in a while now my car needs to have the wires to the reference sensors (rear of the intake) jiggled and it starts right up.
#9
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Peckster: Not necessarily. The grounds for the DME system are independent of the battery cable. I was going for the loose connection/dirty grounds theory first. It is free!
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Southern California
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
OK,
My problem has returned.
Today when I attempted to turn the car on, it just cranked and cranked, like before.
Well, I know that pulling the negative and putting it back will make it start, so I decided to experiment, and pulled each fuse and relay 1 by 1, until the car started.
I went through ALL of them, and the car still didnt fire.
But, as soon as I disconnect the negative, and reconnect it, it fires right up.
And when I shut it off, and try and start it again, all it does is crank and crank, like before.
I've tried wigging the speed/ref. sensors, but the car didnt fire.
I've also tried swapping DME relays, but it still does NOT fire.
What the hell is wrong with it?
My problem has returned.
Today when I attempted to turn the car on, it just cranked and cranked, like before.
Well, I know that pulling the negative and putting it back will make it start, so I decided to experiment, and pulled each fuse and relay 1 by 1, until the car started.
I went through ALL of them, and the car still didnt fire.
But, as soon as I disconnect the negative, and reconnect it, it fires right up.
And when I shut it off, and try and start it again, all it does is crank and crank, like before.
I've tried wigging the speed/ref. sensors, but the car didnt fire.
I've also tried swapping DME relays, but it still does NOT fire.
What the hell is wrong with it?