Loud tapping noise..
#17
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From: Effingham, IL
Originally Posted by JDeitz951
If you have metal bits on the drain plug, your trouble is much more than rod bearings, since rod bearings are made of bronze, a non-magnetic metal.
#18
vogel, just have to go too far to prove your point, lifting a whole set of rod bearings :P
Anyhoo, for the lifters, try a bottle of ATF in the oil, warm it up, and change the oil. It helped quiet mine down.
As for removing the 3mm allen bolt, here's how I got mine out.
Wait until it's time to change the cap-rotor. Place a flat-head screwdriver behind the ceramic part of the rotor, against the cam gear, give it a little twisting/prying, and the ceramic part of the rotor will shatter. Grab the allen bolt with a pair of vise grips, and remove. Then pry the brass sleeve part of the rotor off, replace allen bolt and rotor.
Some have had luck hammering a slightly larger torx bit into the allen key, but I prefer not to hammer anything on the end of a camshaft, and I don't like hammering my torx bits.
Anyhoo, for the lifters, try a bottle of ATF in the oil, warm it up, and change the oil. It helped quiet mine down.
As for removing the 3mm allen bolt, here's how I got mine out.
Wait until it's time to change the cap-rotor. Place a flat-head screwdriver behind the ceramic part of the rotor, against the cam gear, give it a little twisting/prying, and the ceramic part of the rotor will shatter. Grab the allen bolt with a pair of vise grips, and remove. Then pry the brass sleeve part of the rotor off, replace allen bolt and rotor.
Some have had luck hammering a slightly larger torx bit into the allen key, but I prefer not to hammer anything on the end of a camshaft, and I don't like hammering my torx bits.
#21
Burning Brakes
I have noticed wierd tapping noise coming front that region. I figure it is belt slap because the belt cover vibrates everytime I hear the noise, like it is being slapped. That being said, how do I make it go away? Is it just a matter of retensioning the belt? The belts are new(800 miles so far) so my dad and I are about to retension them anyway. Is belt slap bad for anything? I am kinda scared of it at this point(#2 rod bearing).
Tia/Sorry to hijack thread,
Eric
Tia/Sorry to hijack thread,
Eric
#23
That Guy
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This could be off topic... If you are running aluminum pistons (ex. JE aluminum pistons) When your motor is cold the pistons will rattle but once its up to temp itll stop. I am not sure if this happeneds with stock pistons but that could very well be your problem and it isn't any thing to worry about...
My 2 cents is to take it to a GOOD porsche mechanic (not dealer) and have him look at it
My 2 cents is to take it to a GOOD porsche mechanic (not dealer) and have him look at it
#24
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by TurboX
This could be off topic... If you are running aluminum pistons (ex. JE aluminum pistons) When your motor is cold the pistons will rattle but once its up to temp itll stop. I am not sure if this happeneds with stock pistons but that could very well be your problem and it isn't any thing to worry about...
My 2 cents is to take it to a GOOD porsche mechanic (not dealer) and have him look at it
My 2 cents is to take it to a GOOD porsche mechanic (not dealer) and have him look at it
#25
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Piston slap generally occurs in engines with cast iron blocks and forged aluminum pistons. The reason is the differential in expansion of the different metals as they warm up. To get proper running temp clearance, the bores will be oversize for al pistons, and you'll hear the noise every time you cold start.
If it's belt slap, you better take care of it pronto, else we'll be hearing another sad tale of broken belts. Check the easy stuff first, belts. Take the cover off, make sure you have the updated water pump and the belts are tensioned correctly. Next, check the rotor button in the distributor. If those are ok, try the ATF and oil change trick to see if it's a dodgy lifter. If the ATF fluid cures it, don't go fixin' any further until necessary.
If it's belt slap, you better take care of it pronto, else we'll be hearing another sad tale of broken belts. Check the easy stuff first, belts. Take the cover off, make sure you have the updated water pump and the belts are tensioned correctly. Next, check the rotor button in the distributor. If those are ok, try the ATF and oil change trick to see if it's a dodgy lifter. If the ATF fluid cures it, don't go fixin' any further until necessary.
#26
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Burning Brakes
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From: Atlanta, GA
meh, I never got to the retensioning of my belts.. i think i'm going to just bring it into the mechanic who did my last belt change and get him to take care of it
#27
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So did you resolve the problem yet?
I had some tapping noise comming from the front of the cam housing today. After closer inspection it turned out that the dist. cap was loose and the rotor as well (minor play).
I took off the rotor screw (carefully) added a drop of loctite, put everything back and the noise went away...........hope this helps.
I had some tapping noise comming from the front of the cam housing today. After closer inspection it turned out that the dist. cap was loose and the rotor as well (minor play).
I took off the rotor screw (carefully) added a drop of loctite, put everything back and the noise went away...........hope this helps.
#28
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Burning Brakes
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From: Atlanta, GA
Actually yes.. I took off my distributor cap and tried taking off the rotor, but the screw was stripped, and both looked like they were in decent condition... so i put it back together and the tapping was gone.. just to make sure i brought it to a mechanic and all the belts were tensioned correctly.. so *shrugs* its fine now =D thanks for the help guys
#30
Originally Posted by Dave951M
If those are ok, try the ATF and oil change trick to see if it's a dodgy lifter. If the ATF fluid cures it, don't go fixin' any further until necessary.
Can you give a little more detail on that trick??