Wormhole

For those who have removed the engine from the top, can it be removed with the bell housing attached?

PorscheDoc

Yes

Wormhole

Thanks. Did you have any clearance problems? Did you remove the crank pulley?

Perry 951

I needed to remove the crank pully when I did it. Now I go out the bottom.

Wormhole

Thanks Perry. I already removed the crank pulley. I think I may remove the bell housing for a little extra clearance. Besides the eight or so bolts, is there anything else that needs to be removed to separate the engine from bell housing. The starter and slave are removed, and the sensors will be once I can work on the car again.

I disconnected the exhaust from the downpipe to test pipe. Is that going to be enough, it looks like it will be a very tight fit? Did you need to remove the downpipe to turbo, or cross over?

Sam Lin

4 bolts hold bellhousing to engine, but to get it off you also need to pull cliutch pivot pin to drop the fork out with it. You should be set exhaust-wise. I do remove the radiator, gives a very helpful amount of space.

Sam

MySwiss

You don't need to remove the bell housing. Espacially if you removed the crank pulley, you will have enough room to pull it out. You will need an engine hoist with a tilt mechanism, so you can tilt the engine back, and clear the cross member (which should be left hanging by the struts).

Wormhole

Thanks. Radiator is out.
Where is the clutch pivot pin? Not sure what that is.

Looks like I would need to remove my wastegate in order to get one of the bolts that attach the torque tube to bell housing. That’s why I though it might be easier to remove the bell housing to engine instead. If it's only four bolts, it should be just as easy, right? How difficult is it to remove the clutch pivot pin? I'll probably need to look at the PET diagram when I get home tonight.

Thanks Guys.

Perry 951

The clutch pivot pin is what holds the clutch fork in the bellhousing. You can't get the housing off with the pin holding the fork in place. (rather, you are not supposed to)

Looking underneath the bellhousing, close to where the slave cylinder attaches, you should see a round plug looking thing with a notch out of one side and a threaded hole in the middle. This is the pin, and it is about 6" long. You'll need to thread a bolt into it and hook up some vice grips and with lots of luck, you can pull the pin out. If it won't budge, a little bit of heat and persuasion from a hammer should get it.

If you can see where the needle bearings wore into the pin, it's junk. Buy a new one with new bearings. If there are no markings, run it!

Good luck!

Wormhole

Thanks Perry. I'll take a look. I vaguely remember seeing something like you described. At least now I know where to look.

MHT

the pin is held in place by the 6mm bolt and locknut you see screwed into the bell housing, back off the locknut and loosen the bolt by several turns.

dualblade

ahahahahaha, welcome to the four worst bolts in the universe. well, they are kind of a pain in the *** to get off. i was helping skoot with a clutch job this weekend and they really are in like the worst places. just barely enough room to get a ratchet on them.

if you need a hand with the clutch pin, or bellhousing bolts, i might be able to spare some time this week so shoot me a pm

Wormhole

Thanks for the offer Andrew. I'll let you know. All that's left really is the bell housing and cross member. If it weren’t so cold last weekend I would have tried to finish the job. Hopefully next weekend it will be a little warmer.

M758

I have done it from the top and the bottom. Bottom was pain. Top was a bigger pain. I will stick to the doing it from underneath from now on.

KuHL 951

Just be thankful those bolts weren't cheeseheads, wouldn't that be fun? I'm back in reassembly mode on mine, flywheel, clutch all back together again. I'm doing a few other things on the engine before I finish the clutch. I want to make sure all my wiring, heat control valve and sensors are in before reconnecting the torque tube this time!