VDO Boost Gauge Install??
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: BALTIMORE MD
VDO Boost Gauge Install??
I purchased a VDO boost gauge and tubing and hardware kit and I need the parts to install. The connector (1/8) was not included in the kit and I need a proper T connector as well, where can I source these parts? I bought a T from home Depot, but I do not think it will seal properly.
I will be connecting at the DMW KLR area and I do not know the size tubing so I can get a good connection?
I will be connecting at the DMW KLR area and I do not know the size tubing so I can get a good connection?
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 0
From: 951 -> 958 (SOCAL)
The easiest way it to splice into the KLR hard plastic line with a 7/16" (IIRC) tee.
Remove the passenger side footwall carpeting to see the long hard clear line going into the KLR computer.
Remove the passenger side footwall carpeting to see the long hard clear line going into the KLR computer.
Rennlist Lifetime Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,130
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
Whats wrong with the tee you got? Too large or small? If you are concerned about leaking, perhaps some sealant would solve the problem?
You also talk about a 1/8" connector - I am going to assume you mean an 1/8" NPT hose nipple? That should also be readily available at Home Depot or Lowes - check in the Pneumatic Tools section or ask someone for NPT fittings. Don't forget to get some teflon tape to seal the threads.
I've found Pep Boys is a great source for all these little vacuum bits. They have a ton of different style tees and cheap too. Not affiliated.
EDIT: Forgot to mention - while I will agree that teeing into the KLR's pressure line is the easiest way to do this, it has been argued that response will be better with the shortest length of pressure line as possible. For this reason (and since my SPA gauge is electrical and not mechanical), I have the MAP sensor placed under the intake manifold, zip tied to the #4 runner. There's about 2" of pressure line between it and the manifold. Probably a bit more difficult having to run a pressure line all the way from the back of the gauge to the intake manifold though. Another easy way if you don't want to tee into the KLR's line is to tee into the line going to the FPR, at the back of the fuel rail.
HTH
You also talk about a 1/8" connector - I am going to assume you mean an 1/8" NPT hose nipple? That should also be readily available at Home Depot or Lowes - check in the Pneumatic Tools section or ask someone for NPT fittings. Don't forget to get some teflon tape to seal the threads.
I've found Pep Boys is a great source for all these little vacuum bits. They have a ton of different style tees and cheap too. Not affiliated.
EDIT: Forgot to mention - while I will agree that teeing into the KLR's pressure line is the easiest way to do this, it has been argued that response will be better with the shortest length of pressure line as possible. For this reason (and since my SPA gauge is electrical and not mechanical), I have the MAP sensor placed under the intake manifold, zip tied to the #4 runner. There's about 2" of pressure line between it and the manifold. Probably a bit more difficult having to run a pressure line all the way from the back of the gauge to the intake manifold though. Another easy way if you don't want to tee into the KLR's line is to tee into the line going to the FPR, at the back of the fuel rail.
HTH
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,222
Likes: 0
From: Enfield, CT
Originally Posted by Cyrus951
The easiest way it to splice into the KLR hard plastic line with a 7/16" (IIRC) tee.
Remove the passenger side footwall carpeting to see the long hard clear line going into the KLR computer.
Remove the passenger side footwall carpeting to see the long hard clear line going into the KLR computer.
Trending Topics
Rennlist Stories
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
Every Era of 911 Owner Explained in One Sentence
Verdad Gallardo
Thinking of Buying a Porsche? Do These 10 Things First
Joe Kucinski
Pixar Pals Turned Into 1-of-1 Porsches!
Michael S. Palmer
Theon Goes Full Carbon Fiber With Stunning New Build
Verdad Gallardo
Genius Porsche-Themed Gifts That'll Make Any Dad or Grad Smile
Joe Kucinski
10 Used Porsches Are Selling for Way Too Cheap
Joe Kucinski
Tuner Is Converting Porsche 911s Into Shooting Brakes
Verdad Gallardo
This Coachbuilt Creation Is A Modern Take on the Legendary Porsche 917
Verdad Gallardo
Is This Convertible Cayenne A Steal, Or A Returnless Investment?
Verdad Gallardo
Banned
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,822
Likes: 0
From: seattle, washington - usa
i got my t-connector at the local auto parts store (called 'schucks'). you can order them online as well here;
http://tinyurl.com/4pyfd
the two most popular locations to tap the boost reading from are either;
1) the klr connection inside the car by the passenger footwell or
2) the vacuum line coming out of the banjo bolt in the air intake manifold near the fuel pressure regulator
i believe i've found an even better location;
3) the vacuum line in the engine area on the driver's side located near the copper metal 'bell'.
the reason i believe this location is the best is because it's a very short (around 6-inches) run from that location to the passenger cabin. just to the side of the fuse box is a large rubber hose that enters a rubber grommet where you can easily poke a tiny hole to run the boost line, which will end up near the steering wheel column. from there it's a very short run to any location on the dash, or to the a-pillar via a metal 'tunnel' that runs from below the dash to the a-pillar area.
http://tinyurl.com/4pyfd
the two most popular locations to tap the boost reading from are either;
1) the klr connection inside the car by the passenger footwell or
2) the vacuum line coming out of the banjo bolt in the air intake manifold near the fuel pressure regulator
i believe i've found an even better location;
3) the vacuum line in the engine area on the driver's side located near the copper metal 'bell'.
the reason i believe this location is the best is because it's a very short (around 6-inches) run from that location to the passenger cabin. just to the side of the fuse box is a large rubber hose that enters a rubber grommet where you can easily poke a tiny hole to run the boost line, which will end up near the steering wheel column. from there it's a very short run to any location on the dash, or to the a-pillar via a metal 'tunnel' that runs from below the dash to the a-pillar area.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 855
Likes: 0
From: BALTIMORE MD
Thanks, I am going to go get my parts in a few minutes.
I will then decide if I am going to go to the back of the fpr or the dme area, I am hesitant to go into the engine area, but I am also doing to air fuel ratio gauge and the manual boost controller install, so I will have to go to under the hood for the mbc install. I am just waiting for my wastegate and chips.
Ben
I will then decide if I am going to go to the back of the fpr or the dme area, I am hesitant to go into the engine area, but I am also doing to air fuel ratio gauge and the manual boost controller install, so I will have to go to under the hood for the mbc install. I am just waiting for my wastegate and chips.
Ben
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 225
Likes: 1
From: Clinton, CT
NPT fittings are probably the best, however...
One way to connect the boost gauge pressure line is to use a plastic T fitting (usually have barbs on the outside) that has the same inside diameter as the line you are tapping into (which usually makes it hard to insert the T), so you can use a 1 inch section of rubber fuel line as an outer sleeve and use 2 zip ties on each connection to secure it.
- Later.
One way to connect the boost gauge pressure line is to use a plastic T fitting (usually have barbs on the outside) that has the same inside diameter as the line you are tapping into (which usually makes it hard to insert the T), so you can use a 1 inch section of rubber fuel line as an outer sleeve and use 2 zip ties on each connection to secure it.
- Later.