APKhaos

Paul,
Don't know how I missed this thread, given that you are local and I blew a HG at the last NASA race weekend 6/7 November! I've been trying to figure out whether to do this or shop it out, and your thread has tipped the balance. Rebuild a 911 engine here, so this should be a snap if it caqn be done with the engine in place. I was having nightmares about the logistics fo dropping the engine.

If you are wrenching tonight, or later this week, please PM contact details - I'll be there.

9five1

Paul ~ Yeah, if you are wrenching tonight, I am pretty free as well.

Tony ~ Good to see you on here! Sorry to hear about the car, the HG doesn't seem like too bad a job, plus it gives you a chance to knock off a couple 'while you are in there' things.

~Eric

APKhaos

Ha! That's the problem. There's no way of knowing if any collateral damage was caused when the HG went out. Cylinder scoring, bearings, ....... any number of potential nightmares. If that's not enough, I'm planning to install a Lindsay ClubGate [stock legal], and potentially do a clutch. The engine has a mere 34,000miles so absent problems caused when the HG went it should be smooth sailing.

PM if you have Paul's address/contact info.

PCinDC

Hey Tony, nice to see another local 951'er. Sorry to hear about your misfortune, but like Eric said, its not that bad a job, just time consuming because so many other systems need to be removed to get at. And like you said, you won't be able to diagnose any collateral damage until you have it off.

I won't be home from work until about 7pm, and will probably start on the car around 7:30-8pm. If you and Eric want to stop by after that, you're all more than welcome. I can't do anything else with the belts tonight (waiting on a replacement nut I lost), so I think I'm going to tackle installing the either the intake manifold, or the OPRV and the KISS oil cooler. I'll probably change the fuel filter tonight too. Anyone know if I need a flare nut wrench for that?

Thanks guys, hopefully will see you later.

chapstic951

A flare nut wrench is not required, but nice to have to ensure you do not strip the nuts. Your best bet is to remove the plastic schroud that covers the gas tank to get a good angle on both sides of the filter, otherwise you are looking at a knuckle buster. Remember, no smoking until the job is done....

APKhaos

I put the KISS cooler in mine this summer - straightforward. I'll bring same metric flare wrenches too!

PCinDC

Steve - LMAO! I'll take that note to heart.
Tony, Awesome, your experience doing this should make this a pretty simple task. Can't wait! Now I'm all excited again.

PCinDC

Well I got to meet another few local 951'ers tonight, which is always great. Tony and Eric, thanks for the help!
We were able to get the new oil cooler installed but had an incredibly difficult time disconnecting the stock oil line. We decided after yanking, pushing and pulling on it for an hour or so that we couldn't get enough torque on the fitting to break it free. Lucky for me, Tony and Eric know another local Porsche nut who has a set of wrenches made for this job. Perfect! Hopefully the timing works out and we're able to work on it again later this week.

A big thanks to Tony and Eric, hope to see you guys again soon!

APKhaos

Paul,
Here are the pics of the fuel line fittings I promised.

The pressure side has a swaged fitting onto the rail, the return side has a clamp.



The transition from hard line to flex is made through fittings as well.



Its worth the effort to get these lines secured with decent fittings, particularly with the outstanding work you have done on that engine. Can't wait to see that baby on the track next season!

PCinDC

Hey Tony, thanks for the photos....And thanks again for coming by last night! And of course, thanks for the compliment!


It would appear as though my PO definitely had a fire at some point and replaced these lines with the "as cheap as possible" method....Definitely not the way to go about fuel lines with these cars.
So now I need to add that to my list. I wonder if I will encounter problems installing new lines without the proper fittings in place on either the damper or the hard lines from the wheel well area?
Currently my fuel lines are both hose clamped at both ends. The AFPR has a barbed hose nipple for the return fuel line. The pressure damper also has a barbed hose end, for use with a hose clamp. I take it from your pictures that isn't the stock configuration.
So, I am definitely looking at new fuel lines, and potentially a new damper (assuming mine has been modified for use with hose clamps). Does anyone happen to have a pic of a stock damper off of the rail? Maybe Eric, in your mystery box somewhere?

sm

Fanatic,

Actually, your P.O. may have just replaced the factory hoses due to possible leaks at the crimped fittings, such as the one going to the fuel damper. I have a setup like yours and knock on wood, so far so good.

As long as you're using quality Fuel Injection hoses (not generic fuel hoses), quality clamps, and some heat sheathing, you should be good to go. FWIW, I have two hose clamps for each of the connections of the pressure hose (the one that goes to the fuel damper) just to be extra safe.

But if you want to go OEM "style", check out the hoses by Lindsey Racing and the set made by a lister (Pauter? Can't recall name, but do a quick search). These hoses require you to cut the hard metal lines, though.

Edit - I see you have the SS fuel hoses with hose clamps. Some listers, including myself, feel the SS hoses should be connected with AN fittings only as hose clamps *might not* be able to grip the SS well. That's why I went back to rubber hoses.

chapstic951

Don't leave us guessing!!! Did you get it started and hear the fruits of your labor?!?!?!?!

Ski

Yeah, is that thing running or not?

Big E

Pauerman, used to be an ad in the classifieds, probably still there. I have 'em on both cars, they're real nice, and it's nice not having a fuel connection right above the blazing hot exhaust manifold.