I need help! Only exp. engine guys please.
#1
I need help! Only exp. engine guys please.
I am trying to establish a plan for some additional mods to my car. Here is the deal, I just blew my head gasket. I am going to pull my engine next week to stop a couple of oil leaks and instal a new clutch. So I thought while the engine was out I might want to throw some goodies at the engine.
This what I have:
o '87 951 with about 50,000 miles, LSD, Full coilover Carrera shocks with 550# frt and 700# rear (tbar delete) bunch of heim joints, new bushings, ball joints, etc. 225x18 and 295x18 PZero Corsa the handling is dead on, and like I like it, very mild understeer that can be turned into to oversteer with the accelerator.
o $3000.00 budget
o Kokeln Stage V dual ceramic BB turbo
o Autothority mass air flow
o Unknown chips
o Seimens 55# injectors
o MAF tuner and narrow band fuel air monitor
o Lindsey dual port waste gate
o 3" Lindsey coated exhaust, this will be for sale as I'm working on my own exhaust
o I am a capable mechanic, only work I will be letting out is machine work
I think I want better air fuel monitoring and control, improved oil cooling/ oiling, proper chips, alittle more power, and reasonable reliability as my goal.
So what would you experienced gentlemen suggest?
Thanks,
This what I have:
o '87 951 with about 50,000 miles, LSD, Full coilover Carrera shocks with 550# frt and 700# rear (tbar delete) bunch of heim joints, new bushings, ball joints, etc. 225x18 and 295x18 PZero Corsa the handling is dead on, and like I like it, very mild understeer that can be turned into to oversteer with the accelerator.
o $3000.00 budget
o Kokeln Stage V dual ceramic BB turbo
o Autothority mass air flow
o Unknown chips
o Seimens 55# injectors
o MAF tuner and narrow band fuel air monitor
o Lindsey dual port waste gate
o 3" Lindsey coated exhaust, this will be for sale as I'm working on my own exhaust
o I am a capable mechanic, only work I will be letting out is machine work
I think I want better air fuel monitoring and control, improved oil cooling/ oiling, proper chips, alittle more power, and reasonable reliability as my goal.
So what would you experienced gentlemen suggest?
Thanks,
#2
May not exactly being what you're looking for as it's not direct engine parts, but with your setup, for the $3k:
I'd swap to a standalone like the Tec3 or Haltech for 1.5-2.5k, you can then sell your MAF Tuner, APE MAF, and chips to recoup some costs (likely over 1k recouped!)
You don't mention your boost controller, but I'd then spend $250 for an AVCR or $400 for an SBC-iD.
Those will gain you that little bit more power, give you far better a/f control, and improve reliability.
You then have 1k-1.5k left over, which you can use on rod bearing coatings, an oil pan baffle, a new oil pump pickup, an oil cooler, and an Accusump, or the Kokeln oil cooler/air separator kit.
Sam
I'd swap to a standalone like the Tec3 or Haltech for 1.5-2.5k, you can then sell your MAF Tuner, APE MAF, and chips to recoup some costs (likely over 1k recouped!)
You don't mention your boost controller, but I'd then spend $250 for an AVCR or $400 for an SBC-iD.
Those will gain you that little bit more power, give you far better a/f control, and improve reliability.
You then have 1k-1.5k left over, which you can use on rod bearing coatings, an oil pan baffle, a new oil pump pickup, an oil cooler, and an Accusump, or the Kokeln oil cooler/air separator kit.
Sam
Last edited by Sam Lin; 11-05-2004 at 12:44 AM.
#3
I would be thinking Tech Edge or Zeitronix for a decent WB unit. Then you can tune it in properly then, maybe add a EGT sensor to wire into the unit. Also on the tuning front, a Knock Block which wires into the knock sensor and outputs to headphones is a very good way for detecting knock! And its cheap...
I guess you are in a good position for some head work while you are there, maybe a miledge cam to suit. At least have a talk to him...
Being able to control your timing and fuel would be nice in a standalone, but that may not be your style... Tec and Link make some pretty cost effective solutions, especially when you can sell a lot of your old parts! Water injection is fun too! But you need to be able to control and tune timing to get the most out of it...
Mostly you need monkeys, maybe 2 each wheel I figure with your goals.
PS dont pay any attention to me, I know nothing. I should not have even posted.
I guess you are in a good position for some head work while you are there, maybe a miledge cam to suit. At least have a talk to him...
Being able to control your timing and fuel would be nice in a standalone, but that may not be your style... Tec and Link make some pretty cost effective solutions, especially when you can sell a lot of your old parts! Water injection is fun too! But you need to be able to control and tune timing to get the most out of it...
Mostly you need monkeys, maybe 2 each wheel I figure with your goals.
PS dont pay any attention to me, I know nothing. I should not have even posted.
#4
I would start by figuring out what caused the HG to blow. If you intend on running some boost, O-ring the head and use Wide Fire Ring gasket.
Do you know if the chips you have are for a MAF or AFM? Not knowing which chips will make it harder to figure out if the timing is suitable for whatever boost level you intend to run.
Is the MAF getting maxed out? Not knowing the flow of the turbo, and not knowing the HP your engine is making makes it tough to figure out if the MAF is the correct size (not physical size, but calibration wise).
Of course new bearings, etc... are good. A well built engine should last a long time, assuming it's well tuned.
Do you know if the chips you have are for a MAF or AFM? Not knowing which chips will make it harder to figure out if the timing is suitable for whatever boost level you intend to run.
Is the MAF getting maxed out? Not knowing the flow of the turbo, and not knowing the HP your engine is making makes it tough to figure out if the MAF is the correct size (not physical size, but calibration wise).
Of course new bearings, etc... are good. A well built engine should last a long time, assuming it's well tuned.
#5
fast951
I don't know why the head gasket failed yet, but I will let you know where it failed when I take the head off. I do intend to O-ring the head. One of my questions, which head gasket? Wide Fire, Cometic, Broadfoots solid copper? I am sure the chips are for a MAF. Do you have the ability to calibrate the MAF?
Thanks for your suggestions
Sam and NZ thanks for your input,
I would like to go that way,it is hard for me to make a commitment to a stand alone when my mods in the future will probably be some what limited. I am hoping to "marry" a chip instead. Don't get me wrong I love the idea and I will keep it in mind.
I don't know why the head gasket failed yet, but I will let you know where it failed when I take the head off. I do intend to O-ring the head. One of my questions, which head gasket? Wide Fire, Cometic, Broadfoots solid copper? I am sure the chips are for a MAF. Do you have the ability to calibrate the MAF?
Thanks for your suggestions
Sam and NZ thanks for your input,
I would like to go that way,it is hard for me to make a commitment to a stand alone when my mods in the future will probably be some what limited. I am hoping to "marry" a chip instead. Don't get me wrong I love the idea and I will keep it in mind.
#6
I like the WFR gasket, it held up to lots of boost (20+) under track conditions for years. Stay away from copper, it's a pain to get them to seal. Cometic is a good gasket, I have not used it yet, others have with success. The MAF can be calibrated, however you will need chips to match. Better off to sell what you have and get a system designed to work with your setup. Also APE MAF does not use IAT, and the chips are not setup to handle IAT sensor... The simpler you keep your rebuild, the closer to stock the happier you will be.
#7
I would say if it was tuned off your NB, that may be a reason. I think going standalone is a good choice for you at the stage of mods you are at. I have a WFR gasket holding 20psi fine also...
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#8
Originally Posted by fast951
I like the WFR gasket, it held up to lots of boost (20+) under track conditions for years. Stay away from copper, it's a pain to get them to seal. Cometic is a good gasket, I have not used it yet, others have with success.
EDIT: By the way I am agreeing with you fast951, in that the WFR gasket seems like the best way to go. A little more strength for higher boost, yet not a pain in the *** the seal properly.
#10
Not to start anything, but as Fast951 mentioned you should determin what was the cause of a blow HG before you start doing anything. It would be a shame (and a PITA) if you just replace the HG, go and start adding goodies then the HG blows once more. Determine the source first.
#14
Agree with fast951 - what blew it; lean, low octane etc.
With your mods, my .02 is to get a piggyback(SMT6 or Mafterburner) and some good chips(Vitesse has nice set for APE MAF) and a WBO2(LR or Tech Edge). Since you blew the headgasket, take a good look at the cylinder walls and make sure you don't have any light scratches. Change your head studs and if you change rings, breakin the car with 30wt ND oil for 200 miles. Lightly coat the piston SKIRTS and put a LIGHT film on the cylinder walls with the 30wt, 200 miles no boost, vary RPM, change oil and go. While the oil pan is off, if you track the car at all, install the LR baffle kit.
If you o-ring the head or block or both, use the WFHG, do not use the Cometic with an o-ringed head ro block. 93 octane for 15psi, increase octane for anything over 15psi for safety.
With your mods, my .02 is to get a piggyback(SMT6 or Mafterburner) and some good chips(Vitesse has nice set for APE MAF) and a WBO2(LR or Tech Edge). Since you blew the headgasket, take a good look at the cylinder walls and make sure you don't have any light scratches. Change your head studs and if you change rings, breakin the car with 30wt ND oil for 200 miles. Lightly coat the piston SKIRTS and put a LIGHT film on the cylinder walls with the 30wt, 200 miles no boost, vary RPM, change oil and go. While the oil pan is off, if you track the car at all, install the LR baffle kit.
If you o-ring the head or block or both, use the WFHG, do not use the Cometic with an o-ringed head ro block. 93 octane for 15psi, increase octane for anything over 15psi for safety.
#15
hosrom_951 Not to start anything, but as Fast951 mentioned you should determine what was the cause of a blow HG before you start doing anything. It would be a shame (and a PITA) if you just replace the HG, go and start adding goodies then the HG blows once more. Determine the source first.
Thanks hosrum,
I think you guys are correct. I have over 25 years of engine building and tuning so lets assume I will be taking care of the basics, ie, why did the HG blow. My experience, however is mostly with N/A cars and turbo diesels. This why I am asking for you collective advise.
When the head gasket blew, it was 70 degrees I was in heavy traffic temp was normal I had driven 18 or 19 miles. Not on boost once the entire trip, but boost was set at 18#, 96 octane, 12.3 to 12.8 AFR. I then stopped at my destination and was stopped for 20 minutes, restarted car... big cloud of white smoke, shut it down and went to get my trailer.
Thanks all of you, please keep the suggestions coming!
Thanks hosrum,
I think you guys are correct. I have over 25 years of engine building and tuning so lets assume I will be taking care of the basics, ie, why did the HG blow. My experience, however is mostly with N/A cars and turbo diesels. This why I am asking for you collective advise.
When the head gasket blew, it was 70 degrees I was in heavy traffic temp was normal I had driven 18 or 19 miles. Not on boost once the entire trip, but boost was set at 18#, 96 octane, 12.3 to 12.8 AFR. I then stopped at my destination and was stopped for 20 minutes, restarted car... big cloud of white smoke, shut it down and went to get my trailer.
Thanks all of you, please keep the suggestions coming!