Erratic idle.....vid inside
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Erratic idle.....vid inside
i had a leaky intake gasket,you could see the fuel stains.so i decided to check it out...i pull the dme relay to depressurize the fuel system and i start taking off the fuel rail.i didnt take off the manifold and just lossened all the bolts to get a good look at the #1 intake gasket.it seemed like i just needed to retorque it so i did.put everything back together and when i started iti get this erratic idle,just like my uncles suzuki gsxr.sounds like its missfiring,but i checked all the spark plugs,wires,cap and rotor.so it must be a vaccum leak,a seriously big one,but $hit i cant find it!hahahaim suspecting the intake gasket but i want to hear what you guys think......BTW:can someone host the video?its 9mbs,the sound isnt crystal clear as it was from my sony digital camera.thanx in adavnce guys..
#2
UAE Rennlist Ambassador
Rennlist Member
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Shortboy: Go here to upload vids http://autos.movie-host.net/
Once again, thanks to John (Porschhhh951) for that linke
Once again, thanks to John (Porschhhh951) for that linke
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanx for the link but ive tried uploading to that site a few times and it didnt go through....does anyone want to host this file for a bit just so everyone here can hear what it sounds like.thanx
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#8
Race Director
Yes, NAPA has a replacement injector-connector. Comes with a 6" tail of wire that you can butt-splice into the existing harness.
To test your injector wiring, unplug all the injector connectors carefully, also disconnect the idle-stabilizer and CV:
1. turn key to ON
2. use voltmeter to check rear-pin (power) on all connectors (use battery-ground for ground probe). Should read +12-13v on all the rear pins or whatever your battery voltage is.
3. check forward-pin (ground) on all the connectors, should read zero volts, if not, you've got a short with the power line somewhere, most likely under the rubber boot right where the wires go into the connector.
4. check continuity between forward-pins of injector-connectors #1 . This should be zero-ohms, full continuity
5. check continuity between forward-pins of injector-connectors #3 . This should be zero-ohms, full continuity
The big test is in #3. If you can read any power on the ground-pin, you've got a short. You can wiggle the wires under the rubber-boot to see if it changes. Then you've found the short. Last resort, you can also use a razor to slice off the rubber boots and see what the wires look like underneath.
The connectors that NAPA sells is about $10/each I think.
To test your injector wiring, unplug all the injector connectors carefully, also disconnect the idle-stabilizer and CV:
1. turn key to ON
2. use voltmeter to check rear-pin (power) on all connectors (use battery-ground for ground probe). Should read +12-13v on all the rear pins or whatever your battery voltage is.
3. check forward-pin (ground) on all the connectors, should read zero volts, if not, you've got a short with the power line somewhere, most likely under the rubber boot right where the wires go into the connector.
4. check continuity between forward-pins of injector-connectors #1 . This should be zero-ohms, full continuity
5. check continuity between forward-pins of injector-connectors #3 . This should be zero-ohms, full continuity
The big test is in #3. If you can read any power on the ground-pin, you've got a short. You can wiggle the wires under the rubber-boot to see if it changes. Then you've found the short. Last resort, you can also use a razor to slice off the rubber boots and see what the wires look like underneath.
The connectors that NAPA sells is about $10/each I think.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
thanx danno.but i got it fixed earlier today and it was exactly that!the #2 injector connector.got mines at carquest.thanx all....good to have you back danno