AEM EMS in a 944/951/952
#61
Nordschleife Master
#62
So the best bet is to drop 1000+ on a standalone and then another 500+ to have someone else tune it? If you are new to standalones, there is not one you can find and tune because you aren't a tuner. Finding others base maps online will leave you stranded with flooded motors or even popped ones. You could --try-- and spend time perfecting cold start maps and tip in enrichment maps and so on, or you can start with the best base tune there is.
The only time I justify a standalone is with a proper standalone (Motec, Bosch Motorsports, Haltech) and if the motor just happens to have a ton of money and work into it. It would be stupid not to invest in proper tuning after spending over 10k on a motor build. If the stock ECU is powerful enough, I don't see an issue with using it either.
The only time I justify a standalone is with a proper standalone (Motec, Bosch Motorsports, Haltech) and if the motor just happens to have a ton of money and work into it. It would be stupid not to invest in proper tuning after spending over 10k on a motor build. If the stock ECU is powerful enough, I don't see an issue with using it either.
I have ordered a Link G4 Extreme for my 3 liter build for my 951. I am expecting a great experience, but I love electronics and fiddling / tinkering with them.
As always YMMV,
#65
#66
Three Wheelin'
Just for the price vs features vs usability I would prefer Link G4 or VEMS (they now have very good UI called VEMSTune) but as me and Chris already stated, it comes down to the local support (is there any tuners nearby and what systems can they tune).
You don't want to buy a system just to discover that nearest guy who could tune it good is thousand miles away.
You don't want to buy a system just to discover that nearest guy who could tune it good is thousand miles away.
#67
Rennlist Member
Just to add to this topic, has anyone been successful in running sequential ign with the stock 132 crank trigger sensors? Seems that pretty much all the systems (Wolf, Electromotive, Motec) that I have seen run a crank and cam trigger need to run a front wheel with a tooth number divisible by 4? Anyone run off the OEM trigger happily?
#68
Three Wheelin'
Starting from firmware 1.1.47 and up, VEMS can utilize it with ease (in fact there's a drop-box where you can select car model and it automatically adjusts trigger settings accordingly and Porsche 944 is there).
No problem running either active or passive COP's (no need to send ECU for remake or something, just use different pins) but by using just crank sensors (no cam sync) allows you to run COP's in wasted spark mode. To run sequentially, ECU needs to know exactly where to reset firing order.
No problem running either active or passive COP's (no need to send ECU for remake or something, just use different pins) but by using just crank sensors (no cam sync) allows you to run COP's in wasted spark mode. To run sequentially, ECU needs to know exactly where to reset firing order.
#69
Formula One Spin Doctor
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The only time I justify a standalone is with a proper standalone (Motec, Bosch Motorsports, Haltech) and if the motor just happens to have a ton of money and work into it. It would be stupid not to invest in proper tuning after spending over 10k on a motor build. If the stock ECU is powerful enough, I don't see an issue with using it either.
Just to add to this topic, has anyone been successful in running sequential ign with the stock 132 crank trigger sensors? Seems that pretty much all the systems (Wolf, Electromotive, Motec) that I have seen run a crank and cam trigger need to run a front wheel with a tooth number divisible by 4? Anyone run off the OEM trigger happily?
#70
Addict
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I have never understood the big attraction to using the stock trigger system. (or any of the stock wiring for that matter). Sensor location is a little annoying to work on, gapping the sensor is a pain and you need two sensors to make it functional. The missing tooth system works a lot better – even Porsche went to the 60-2 tooth trigger in the S2 / 968 series.
There are several available front mounted 60-2 trigger systems available (OK, one of them is mine so I might just be a little biased!). It makes life a lot easier to set these up and maintain them.
As for the full sequential – as somebody pointed out you have to have a cam based trigger to identify which cycle the engine is on. You can run a cam only trigger but you lose some resolution that way. It is better to run a crank trigger for actual timing and a single tooth cam trigger to identify the engine cycle.
Geez, don’t be so harsh, Motec and Bosch aren’t too bad…..
There are several available front mounted 60-2 trigger systems available (OK, one of them is mine so I might just be a little biased!). It makes life a lot easier to set these up and maintain them.
As for the full sequential – as somebody pointed out you have to have a cam based trigger to identify which cycle the engine is on. You can run a cam only trigger but you lose some resolution that way. It is better to run a crank trigger for actual timing and a single tooth cam trigger to identify the engine cycle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by robstah
The only time I justify a standalone is with a proper standalone (Motec, Bosch Motorsports, Haltech) and if the motor just happens to have a ton of money and work into it. It would be stupid not to invest in proper tuning after spending over 10k on a motor build. If the stock ECU is powerful enough, I don't see an issue with using it either.
In the same senstence .....
Originally Posted by robstah
The only time I justify a standalone is with a proper standalone (Motec, Bosch Motorsports, Haltech) and if the motor just happens to have a ton of money and work into it. It would be stupid not to invest in proper tuning after spending over 10k on a motor build. If the stock ECU is powerful enough, I don't see an issue with using it either.
In the same senstence .....
#71
Rennlist Member
That's what I mean. I know that you can run many ECUs off the stock trigger but not when you want to run sequential with cam trigger too? Then there's the added exercise of squeezing it in when running dry sump. Bit less room.
What symptoms have people experienced when running with the stock 132 and cam sensor?
What symptoms have people experienced when running with the stock 132 and cam sensor?
#74
Three Wheelin'
OK for reference I believe this is the unit this thread was about and yes it is still available. It comes with a 279 page install PDF and when UPS drops it off they should say “good luck with that!”
http://www.aemelectronics.com/ems-4-...nt-system-1216
http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-6905.pdf
Yes it is under a grand but it leaves you to do everything! I'm sure there are those on here that can deal with it but many cannot.
So you have to look beyond price if you want to be able to actually drive your 951. So that's where support comes into play. Chris White and the Tec 3 , Lindsey's Wolf EMS and ViPec http://www.pauertuning.com/index_fil...Management.htm
among others the Vipec has a tie in with link I belive. I believe all those systems are plug and play they are 951 specific.
And I'm with Chris you can probably use the OEM sensors but why? If I go with a standalone getting rid of the crap OEM triggers is high on my list!
.
http://www.aemelectronics.com/ems-4-...nt-system-1216
http://www.aemelectronics.com/Images...%2030-6905.pdf
Yes it is under a grand but it leaves you to do everything! I'm sure there are those on here that can deal with it but many cannot.
So you have to look beyond price if you want to be able to actually drive your 951. So that's where support comes into play. Chris White and the Tec 3 , Lindsey's Wolf EMS and ViPec http://www.pauertuning.com/index_fil...Management.htm
among others the Vipec has a tie in with link I belive. I believe all those systems are plug and play they are 951 specific.
And I'm with Chris you can probably use the OEM sensors but why? If I go with a standalone getting rid of the crap OEM triggers is high on my list!
.
#75
Just to add to this topic, has anyone been successful in running sequential ign with the stock 132 crank trigger sensors? Seems that pretty much all the systems (Wolf, Electromotive, Motec) that I have seen run a crank and cam trigger need to run a front wheel with a tooth number divisible by 4? Anyone run off the OEM trigger happily?
I have compared both Vi-PEC/Link softwares and they look 99% identical.
Not sure I understand the benefits of running a 60-2 tooth trigger, as the stock 132 tooth trigger set up should offer better resolution...?
They introduced the 60-2 set up with the 944S in '87 yet they didn't convert the 8V cars to it.
Last edited by Thom; 06-09-2011 at 04:17 PM.