Won’t Start Damn DME??
#1
Won’t Start Damn DME??
Okay, my car has been idle for over two months.. Any advice is welcome.
It started with the engine cutting out over bumps.
The car has ARC1, Huntly Mass Air, K27DR, Authority chips, none of which I did it all was the previous owner.
The car would not start and I replaced the battery and plugs. It started, but issue was still present.
Next the cap and rotor. Again ran well for a period then the cutting out came back.
Next the fuel pump, didn’t fix it.
Next a rebuilt DME.
I sent mine to be repaired and the shop said it was not repairable.
I bought a rebuilt one, transferred the chip and no go..
No spark and no fuel.
Here are my top three guesses!!
Bad chip in DME
Bad DME or I shocked it
A mouse in the wiring harness….
Here are some basic questions;
Can I swap the old chips back to the DME/KLR and expect anything to work since the car has the MAF and ARC?
The DME is on the floor of my car, does it need to be bolted in to work, be grounded?
When I turn the car key on should my fuel pump buss? It does not?
Thanks...
It started with the engine cutting out over bumps.
The car has ARC1, Huntly Mass Air, K27DR, Authority chips, none of which I did it all was the previous owner.
The car would not start and I replaced the battery and plugs. It started, but issue was still present.
Next the cap and rotor. Again ran well for a period then the cutting out came back.
Next the fuel pump, didn’t fix it.
Next a rebuilt DME.
I sent mine to be repaired and the shop said it was not repairable.
I bought a rebuilt one, transferred the chip and no go..
No spark and no fuel.
Here are my top three guesses!!
Bad chip in DME
Bad DME or I shocked it
A mouse in the wiring harness….
Here are some basic questions;
Can I swap the old chips back to the DME/KLR and expect anything to work since the car has the MAF and ARC?
The DME is on the floor of my car, does it need to be bolted in to work, be grounded?
When I turn the car key on should my fuel pump buss? It does not?
Thanks...
#3
I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a failed solder joint on the transistor that fires the ignition circuit on the DME circuit board (simply replacing the chips will not solve this problem, you either have to resolder the leads, which is cheap and easy, or replace the whole DME, which is expensive and easy). When the solder joints crack you will get intermitant stalling, and indeed a whack to the floor board will often temporarily correct the situation. You stated no spark and no fuel, so if this is indeed the case you may have other issues.
#4
Burning Brakes
DME/KLR diagnostics
JLeake, could you please tell us more about how you found the fault? I'm having similar problems as noted in another thread, and so welcome any and all suggestions about fixes.
#5
UAE Rennlist Ambassador
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
How are you running APE chips and having a Huntley MAF with an ARC2?
Doesn't the ARC2 control fuel mapping for the MAF?
You should have special Hunley Chips allowing you to use the ARC2 for mapping/control.......
Right?????
Doesn't the ARC2 control fuel mapping for the MAF?
You should have special Hunley Chips allowing you to use the ARC2 for mapping/control.......
Right?????
#6
Dash01- Do a search for "DME transistor solder" and you should find my thread on the subject. I don't have pics unfortunately, but maybe your search will pull some from another Rennlister. As I recall the transistor was at the edge of one of the circuit boards. Transistors have 3 leads, and this transistor is pretty large (maybe 1 cm? This was a while back so don't hold me to that). At any rate, I just inspected it visually and noticed the cracks in the solder where the leads pass through the circuite board. Get a solder sucker bulb ($3) and a 20 or 25 watt soldering iron ($12) from Radio Shack. Buy really thin solder. Easy fix....haven't had trouble since. Of course, this may not be the problem in JKTurbo's situation, but it's always good to elimanate the cheap and easy options first.
Trending Topics
#8
Pro
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Waukesha Wisconsin
Posts: 551
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Your problem may lie in the DME relay. It is located in the fuse/relay panel on the driver's side in position G5. The updated part is 993.615.227.00. The relay enables the DME which sends a signal back to the other section of the relay to enable the fuel pump. So no fuel and no spark would be consistent with this failure.
#9
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: 951 -> 958 (SOCAL)
Posts: 3,726
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JK,
Take your DME to a TV repair shop, and ask them to resolder all of the cracked solder joints (if you don't trust yourself)
They shouldn't charge you more than 50 bucks
Take your DME to a TV repair shop, and ask them to resolder all of the cracked solder joints (if you don't trust yourself)
They shouldn't charge you more than 50 bucks
#11
Rennlist Member
The problem is likley the DME relay, as people mentioned. Also, there is an early and late style DME for these cars -- the later uses a chip that has more pins that the earlier one. You may want to check to make sure the DME chips are oriented properly (notch in chip aligned with notch in silkscreen), and that the DME and KLR chips are in the proper boxes, and that there are no extra socket pin locations on your DME (which would mean you have early chips in a late DME). Also, while you are in there, you can check for voltage at the DME. If you have none, then the relay is very likely.
#12
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by hosrom_951
How are you running APE chips and having a Huntley MAF with an ARC2?
Doesn't the ARC2 control fuel mapping for the MAF?
You should have special Hunley Chips allowing you to use the ARC2 for mapping/control.......
Right?????
Doesn't the ARC2 control fuel mapping for the MAF?
You should have special Hunley Chips allowing you to use the ARC2 for mapping/control.......
Right?????
#13
I did purchase a Rebuilt DME(Easy and expensive) and the engine did not fire. Still no power at the coil. Rigth now it looks like a DME issue, the DME relay does not have powere at it.
With the ARC and the mass air are there any power controls that would cause the computer(DME) not to send a signal to the coil or fuel pump? Thanks, JK
With the ARC and the mass air are there any power controls that would cause the computer(DME) not to send a signal to the coil or fuel pump? Thanks, JK
#14
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by JKTurbo
I did purchase a Rebuilt DME(Easy and expensive) and the engine did not fire. Still no power at the coil. Rigth now it looks like a DME issue, the DME relay does not have powere at it.
With the ARC and the mass air are there any power controls that would cause the computer(DME) not to send a signal to the coil or fuel pump? Thanks, JK
With the ARC and the mass air are there any power controls that would cause the computer(DME) not to send a signal to the coil or fuel pump? Thanks, JK
I'm not quite following this. Have you replaced the DME relay yet? If not, I would test that first and replace it if needed. It is the most common cause of your problem.
The ARC2 and MAF would not affect ignition, absent seroiusly bad installation/wiring.
#15
Race Director
[i]"How are you running APE chips and having a Huntley MAF with an ARC2?"[i]
"No need for special Huntley chips for the ARC. You will be fine whether the chips say "Huntley" or "APE" on them. Nuff said."
Hmmmm, you can also view the last 18 bytes on both these chips with a binary-text editor and it'd tell you something interesting... The ARC2 is needed because the Huntley MAF outputs a different voltage-response curve than the APE MAF.
"No need for special Huntley chips for the ARC. You will be fine whether the chips say "Huntley" or "APE" on them. Nuff said."
Hmmmm, you can also view the last 18 bytes on both these chips with a binary-text editor and it'd tell you something interesting... The ARC2 is needed because the Huntley MAF outputs a different voltage-response curve than the APE MAF.