Dash01

Boost gauge does nothing: other gauges react at both acc. pos. one and two.

By "acc. pos. one and two," I mean the two key positions short of actually cranking the starter motor. From prior starting attemts, I know she's getting fuel because the exhaust pipe smells strongly of gasoline.

jcb928

I did this today when I put in a set of Europroducts chips. I thought I put the KLR chip in the right way because I put the EuroProducts chip with the writing facing the same way as the factory numbers. The car wouldn't start so I went back in and checked the "notch" and it was the wrong way in the KLR. Check the notch on the KLR chip.

Cyrus951

If the boost gauge does nothing, it's a KLR fault.
Is the plastic line going inside the KLR in the KLR?
I still think your chips are backwards, or you didn't put the boxes in the harnesses correctly.

Dash01

I sure hope you're right, but I'll quadruple check the chips to make sure they both are notch to notch, the plastic line is securely attached, and the harnesses are properly clipped, etc.

Dash01

I checked again, and the chips are both notch to notch: In other words, each chip has a notch at one end, and that end is mated to the notched end of its matching receptacle.

However, on this check the boost gauge does in fact show a reading when the key is in acc. two position. So maybe the KLR is not faulty on that account.

BTW, the cable bundle that goes to the DME has a separate little black plug that sticks out a few inches from the bundle's multi-pin plug end. This little plug has a brown wire and a brown/white wire, but there is no mate for it in sight. Could this be a ground wire for the DME, and if so, where would it's connecting mate be?

Speaking of grounding, are the DME and KLR units grounded via their metal mounting bracket (the one beneath the plywood floorboard)?

Dash01

bump

Dash01

Ok ,

Bringing back a dead thread with some good news. My dad bought another dme. When he was comparing them side by side he noticed that the connection where the chip plugs into on the old "bad" dme that has the notch on it was facing the oposite direction of the notch on the new good dme. We then installed the chip in the old dme "backwards". It fired right up.

Diagnosis is the old dme's inlet for the chip was 180* off, making the notch face the wrong side and us put the chip in wrong. Now the car works great.

Thanks for all the help,
Eric

Sam Lin

Thanks for the final update! First I've heard of something like that happening, was one your original DME possibly refurbed at some point in the past?

Sam

Dash01

I think it may have been refurbished. There were a lot of little dots on different parts, like somone marked it with a felt tip pen to make sure they checked it. I'm pretty stoked now though. The old DME works and I installed an accuboost this morning to bypass a broken CV. MUCH FASTER. Set boost at what looks to be 13psi on the stock gauge. I'm not trusting the gauge so we set it at 13 instead of 15.

Danno

"When he was comparing them side by side he noticed that the connection where the chip plugs into on the old "bad" dme that has the notch on it was facing the oposite direction of the notch on the new good dme."

Guess someone messed up on installing that chip-socket, eh? Typically on circuit-boards, pin#1 is marked with a white dot.

Dash01

I didn't notice pin #1 having any white dot or other marking. However, with both new and old DMEs laid out side by side and each folded open and oriented with ignition drivers to the left, the old DME socket had its notch facing right, but the new DME socket notch faced left. That was the source of confusion, since the chip manufacturor insisted that the chip should be installed with its notch above the socket notch. Not necessarily so, when the socket was put in backwards at the factory.

Actually, it does not matter which way the socket is installed, since the socket just connects one side of the circuit board to the other. What DOES matter is the orientation of the chip itself, as the chip notch should point toward the same side of the board as the ignition driver.

By the way, the ~$4 ignition driver that I got from a mail order place works just fine. (I'd installed that in the old DME and re-flowed the solder joints.)