APE Chips or Cup Car Chips?
#1
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In the process of installing some APE chips, I've discovered that my car (an 88 turboS) currently has a chip with a hand written "DME Cup 87" on it.
In addition, on the outside of my DME has a black label (sealing the bottom of the unit- looks like an offical Porsche sticker) that says: TYPE: CUP-CAR and then PROSCHE95HNCUPO34 on the other side.
Anyone know what this is? Do all turboS's have this (the sticker)
Which is considered a 'better' chip? APE or Cup?
Thanks!
In addition, on the outside of my DME has a black label (sealing the bottom of the unit- looks like an offical Porsche sticker) that says: TYPE: CUP-CAR and then PROSCHE95HNCUPO34 on the other side.
Anyone know what this is? Do all turboS's have this (the sticker)
Which is considered a 'better' chip? APE or Cup?
Thanks!
#3
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I've got a KLR chip that says Turbo CUP handwritten on it. However, it's a bootleg copy. Yours' labeling means it's a real Cup DME, and should be pretty valuable.
Sam
Sam
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First, no that is not a standard Turbo S brain unit/chip, you have something special there.
Are both DME and KLR chips/boxes labelled as "Cup" or just the DME? Is the DME a 24 pin chip or 28 (if the whole DME unit is from an '87 Cup car, it should be 24 pin). If the DME box is 24 pin, the Autothority DME chip will not work in the unit, because it will be 28 pin. So if you decide to run the Autothority chip set, there are ways to rig it, but its probably best to look for an 88-89 Turbo DME box.
I believe the Canadian Cup cars in 87 were rated around 250bhp, so I dont think those will be real hot chips. May have some slight ignition advance based on using race fuel, and the rev limiter is either higher or not there. So in the end, the autothority chips will probably run higher boost and have more power output.
Are both DME and KLR chips/boxes labelled as "Cup" or just the DME? Is the DME a 24 pin chip or 28 (if the whole DME unit is from an '87 Cup car, it should be 24 pin). If the DME box is 24 pin, the Autothority DME chip will not work in the unit, because it will be 28 pin. So if you decide to run the Autothority chip set, there are ways to rig it, but its probably best to look for an 88-89 Turbo DME box.
I believe the Canadian Cup cars in 87 were rated around 250bhp, so I dont think those will be real hot chips. May have some slight ignition advance based on using race fuel, and the rev limiter is either higher or not there. So in the end, the autothority chips will probably run higher boost and have more power output.
#6
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Originally Posted by RPG951S
The DME & the KLR chips both say "87 CUP XXX" (DME/KLR). The DME is a 28 pin.
I went with the APE chips. A least I know what they are![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I went with the APE chips. A least I know what they are
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They really haven't been updated in years , why risk it , for $300-$500 bucks you could get Guru's or Vitesse and have alot more power and a safer chip with no lean spots.
Just my 0.02 cents
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I have used APE stage 2 chips in my 87 with 26/8 turbo for two years with no problems.
I sold my chips to My Swiss, upon install we checked the AFR, in the midrange we were at 9.1 AFR very rich, at 6000rpm we were at 13.1 AFR so you can see we were a bit lean at 6000 rpm. We were running a 26/8 turbo tial WG set at 15 psi.
Me personaly i would get a set from Vitesse. You should read what Jermey Hemsel had to say about all three chips APE Guru, and Vitesse interesting reading.
I sold my chips to My Swiss, upon install we checked the AFR, in the midrange we were at 9.1 AFR very rich, at 6000rpm we were at 13.1 AFR so you can see we were a bit lean at 6000 rpm. We were running a 26/8 turbo tial WG set at 15 psi.
Me personaly i would get a set from Vitesse. You should read what Jermey Hemsel had to say about all three chips APE Guru, and Vitesse interesting reading.
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Guys, I want to bottom line it here.
YOU CANNOT RUN THE APE CHIPS WITHOUT THE BANJO BOLT OR ANY OTHER FORM OF BOOST CONTROL!
The chips ASSUME a mid range boost spike and then a decreasing level of boost at higher RPM's.
If your using a manual/electronic controller, or anything other than a stock wastegate, your ourside of their parameters. Period.
A local TurboS guy has been running his APE chips for 10 YEARS on street/track car. Zero problems. (He's using the BB.)
I've driven his car. It's awesome. That's all I need to know.
YOU CANNOT RUN THE APE CHIPS WITHOUT THE BANJO BOLT OR ANY OTHER FORM OF BOOST CONTROL!
The chips ASSUME a mid range boost spike and then a decreasing level of boost at higher RPM's.
If your using a manual/electronic controller, or anything other than a stock wastegate, your ourside of their parameters. Period.
A local TurboS guy has been running his APE chips for 10 YEARS on street/track car. Zero problems. (He's using the BB.)
I've driven his car. It's awesome. That's all I need to know.
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I've got the APE chips installed with banjo bolt. It works exactly like RPG said. There is a little spike midrange up to 16psi or so and then it falls off to 13 or so at redline. G-tech pro results gave me 238 hp with a test pipe. The chips seem to work well for me, but i haven't tried others.
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Originally Posted by jyoon
I've got the APE chips installed with banjo bolt. It works exactly like RPG said. There is a little spike midrange up to 16psi or so and then it falls off to 13 or so at redline. G-tech pro results gave me 238 hp with a test pipe. The chips seem to work well for me, but i haven't tried others.
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i would not expect the ape chips to be as good as the guru or vitesse, hope you didn't get that impression. i just meant to say, they work fine in their correct application. the guru chips, from what i understand require a 3.0 fpr and shimmed wastegate. i heard the gurus assume 15 psi to redline, if so, of coarse they are gonna make more power.
#14
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Originally Posted by jyoon
i would not expect the ape chips to be as good as the guru or vitesse, hope you didn't get that impression. i just meant to say, they work fine in their correct application. the guru chips, from what i understand require a 3.0 fpr and shimmed wastegate. i heard the gurus assume 15 psi to redline, if so, of coarse they are gonna make more power.
Ya Guru sends you a Reliaboost MBC, 3 bar FPR, and the chips also Danno has a new 18 psi chip that puts out some serious torque numbers.