Badass951, I try to go the extra mile when I can, because I myself have wasted a ton of money over the last 4 years on parts that do not work together.

I try not to assume the knowledge level of anybody ( some I know are Guru's some I don't ) and go in to some detail if I can, trying to save anyone some of the money I have wasted.

 

This is what I was trying to say that I appreciated about your posts. I am going to try to use your approach from now on when answering any posts.

 

Turbo first, any day. The AFM has been used in multiple 400+hp cars, it's not an issue. As has been mentioned, you will need at least injectors and either chips or piggyback.

Sam

 

haha no doubt. I was one of the first autothority MAF customers. I bought it for the special price of $1999 when they first advertised it through Excellence. Over the years, it's bolt on after bolt on, brainwashed through magazine ads, bogus reviews, and clever marketing until I finally unplugged myself from the Matrix and bought a standalone.

So ya, I suggest getting a standalone of some sort as a first mod and learn how to tune. From there, you're completely free to buy any mod and tweak the settings for YOUR car, not a tune that's tweaked for 5000 cars that's just a bit different than yours .

 

David,

LOTS of quesitons, please help.

The Vitesse Kit is about $3000 with injectors, and quick spool upgrade. How much labor is involved?

If I just got turbo, piggy back and chips, it would be a bit cheaper, though $1450 seem up there for a turbo. If 27/6 is around $700, 60HIFi around $730, TEO4 around $730, and Lindsey Sport around $1000. Am I missing something? Are these cheapo options just no where as good?

My goal is low end power, not so much high end power.

Does the Vitesse turbo spool up faster or slower than a 26/6 and AFM?

Also, I already have chips, so why would I buy chips AND a piggy back? If a piggy back can tune the car, what's the point?

Let's say I decide to stay wtih my stock turbo and no MAF, just chips and LBE. I was considering buying Vitesse Chips for $300 and would lose $250 on my other chips. So for $550 I'd have Vitesse chips. Why wouldn't I just buy the Piggy back and have John tell me how to work it? I'd have the same $550 down and have the car custom tuned? Unless the Piggy Back won't work on the 18 psi guru chip.

Seems to me if A/F ratios are the #1 priority, then piggy back would be 1st upgrade, not trading in your APE, Kolken, Guru, etc. chips, not upsizing a turbo, and not adding MAF. I'm wondering if I can achieve 90% of what I want with just tuning?

 

David or anyone who knows,

One last question. Is the piggy back something you hook up, tune, then put away, or is it something which is permanently mounted in the interior?

Thanks

 

Not to be glib, but please clarify what you want. That's the only way we can give the best recommendations.

Sam

 

Not to be glib, but please clarify what you want.

Power that comes on quick, please re-read my posts.

SECOND POST: I am looking for more low end grunt. The track I drive is full of turns (14), one which is hairpin turn (30mph). I find myself in many occassions where I have to down shift, then upshift immediately thereafter. With more low end get up and go I would be happy.

So I don't want a car that makes HP really high in RPM range, but is doggy down low.

I have actually toyed with changing my final drive gear ratio to get a bit more low-end, since I can't get 160 mph out of the car anyway.

THIRD POST: My goal is low end power, not so much high end power.

 

I read all your posts - all I found was what you quoted, which is hardly clear - low end power, great, but you don't say what you want on the high end, if stock hp is good enough and you just want faster spool than stock (as fast as possible), or you're ok with stock spool and another 50hp up top - that's why I asked for clarification.

Sam

 

Aren't we kinda of kicking the dead dog here? I guess maybe I am just lost.

They are suggesting a piggy back I was suggesting a power perfect which is a digital fuel controller that you can mount lot's of places....it gives you the ability to adjust your fuel in different area's of your rpm range and can work with any set of chip's. It's what we call a more long term mod. You can use piggback system's with lot's of different stuff. A piggyback is something you hookup tune away and then enjoy.....whenever you make a change or a new mod to your current car you can then go back and change and adjust your fuel accordingly.

I think since you don't know exactly yet your future mods some sort of piggyback system would be very good....and a standalone would be even better. Although a standalone is a pretty serious undertaking for some people.

Why don't you call up Vitesse and talk to him about your plan's and see what he has to say. Ask him about piggyback's along with a custom set of chip's with a good base to tune from and then take it slowly from there.

It kind of depends on how serious your future mods for the car are going to get and how much money you are willing to spend to get desired result's. I hope this helps in some way.

 

Blueman33, Your goal of low end improvement without much money, I think would be best done by making sure your current setup is in tip top running order, good wastegate, no vacuum leaks, ect...

Were you able to get the bugs worked out of your Guru chips ?? If so then I suggest using the money you have now on more track time, improving your driving skills. Your car is faster than a 944 na, but a good driver in a 944 na with be all over you on a tight track.

Then save your money for a complete kit, I favor Vitesse, but there are others.

IMHO

Hope this helps,

 

Sell the 951 and get a 968
-Randy

 

You can get either one first. If you get the turbo (like a KKK27/8 ot a K27/6, T04E whatever) you can get custom burned chips for that turbo to get the most out of it while keeping the AFM and mostle stock items.

But, if you get a MAF/MAP they come with a controller, so you can adjust it to what suits you, even with the stock turbo.

Both are relatively in the same range ($$).........

 

If you are using upgraded chips, i would buy smt6 fuel controler turn up the boost to 17 psi dial in you're AFR so you are not running lean.

With a 26/6 turbo you should be able to get 250 wrhp, so what i am saying here is for that short track you are running it should be enough power without to much lag with that 26/6 turbo.

 

Save your money!
Get a decent wastegate and contoller, while you at it for about $30 get all your vacuum lines changed. Before you start buying any MAF/MAP or Turbo make sure your compression is good and even. If your engine is not ready to accept more power it is going to fail on you and if you haven't got enough cash to buy Turbo/MAF together the odds are you will not have enough to do an engine rebuild WHEN not IF it fails.
I agree with the guys who have previously said buy matched componants I also agree with the guys who say it may be better to buy a standalone system and there is one on Ebay at the moment.
But before you start, check what you already have