riotas

Hello. I have an strange battery draning.
Whene i stop the car i hear an sound under my intake manifoild.
Its like an electikal motor who is not stopping. I have messured from the battery
that it draining about 0.5 A. Whene i take out my DME rele it stops, and whwne i put it in the DME click and the "motor" under the manifold starts.
I have changed the DME and the same happend whit the new one.
Its draining a fully charged battery in ca. 2 weeks.
What is the DME rele set to do???
I am knowing that i have to take of the manifold but i would like
to hear what you think about this.
Thanks for the replies.

APKhaos

Take a look at the side of the coolant header tank while your little motor is running. If you can see flow coming in from the small hose, then your turbo cooling pump is running. It is designed to run for a while to cool the turbo bearigns and prevent heat soak after the engine is shut down. The turbo cooling pump is switched by a separate relay. The DME relay provides primary power to the circuit, but the pump has its own relay - yours may have failed.

hosrom_951

Make sure the connections for the turbo coolent water pump is 'clean' and tight, same thing applies to it's relay.....make sure its not loose.

IceShark

As noted, I'm also positive it is the turbo coolant pump. It could be that the pump relay has failed (especially if you have been running the pump straight for hours on end and burned it up) but that is an expensive one to just change out - over $100 USD.

A more common problem is failure of the turbo coolant temperature sensor. It is screwed into a small coolant hardpipe that is to the right (facing forward) of the throttle body and under the forward edge of the intake manifold. It has a 1 wire round plastic connector that plugs into the top of it. When the pump is running in its apparent failure mode after engine shut down, pull the plug off the temp sensor. If the pump stops, you just found your problem - the temp sensor.

You don't need to pull the manifold to do this test. And if you have a universal joint for your deep wall socket you can change out the sensor without pulling the manifold. Or maybe it takes a crow's foot attachment, I forget. But it can be removed with one of those. Just make sure the motor is cold or you will burn your hands. And watch out so you don't lose the aluminum crush washer on the sensor when you pull it off. It is aluminum so a magnetic pickup stick won't help you fish it out and you will need some sort of fancy grabber tool like they use in surgery to find it. Or buy another crush washer.

hosrom_951

Ice Shark: Whenever my pump is running (after the engine is off) and pull off the wire going to that coolent temp sensor, the pump stays on.

Yet my pump is working fine (~30 seconds after the engine is off).

But yes, a failed sensor can also lead to the pump always running.

IceShark

hosram, that is why I said wait until it is in apparent failure mode, i.e. after the 30 second automatic run. (Actually it is 25 seconds +/- 5 seconds so if your pump shuts off after 20 seconds it is still within spec.)

The way it works is this. The relay timer controls the first 30 seconds of the pump run and then shuts off the pump. But if the coolant is too hot the temperature sensor takes over and will continue to run the pump after 30 seconds for as long as it takes to get below specified temperatures.

So if you wait after shut down for a couple minutes and the pump is still running and pull the sensor wire and it stops then you know for sure it is the sensor. If it doesn't stop then it is most likely the relay, say the timer circuit has failed or something else has welded short in the relay.

riotas

This is the thing who is running after i have turned of the engine.
I dont know what that is.
If i also take out the DME relay it stops.
What is it???