CanyonBlaster

or just getting better pads....I tried a search but didn't retrurn enuff info for a noob like me.

Thinking about Hawk HPS. Been planning to get this going for a while and there's a 2 day track event this weekend, with timed runs on Sunday afternoon.

I have a full 951 manual on CD (thanks to rocket951/ Rodney), and I am thinking that this is not as easy as I had hoped. I'm pretty lame wrench and don't have all these "special" tools mentioned in the "official" procedure.

Does NE1 have a tech article, text file, or link to one with the instructions for a front pad swap? Do I need to follow all those precise steps laid out in the manual?

TIA

M758

Hmm,
If the tires are off the car I bet I can change one corner of pads in 5 min.

Not including bleeding the brakes. Heck I can change 944 NA pads in less than 10 min too.

Procedure is simple...

Lift car to jack stands
Remove front tires
Pull retaining pin.
open bleed screw
Use large channel lock pliers to squeze pad back.
Close bleed screw.
Open bleed screw on the other side of the caliper.
Use large channel lock pliers to squeze pad back.
Close bleed screw.
pull old pads out.
Put new pads in
re install retaining pin.
Complete on other side of the car
bleed front brakes
re install tires
lower car to ground
Wash hands
get in car
drive away.

Actually brake pads are one of the simplest jobs on a 944 (951 or 944)

CanyonBlaster

Thanks M758. That was what I was hoping for. The official manual makes it seem alot more difficult. I guess I will need to buy a one man/self brake bleeder. Been meaning to anyway.

Thanks again.

Ahmet

I would get something a whole lot more agressive than HPS if I were swapping pads for track duty. HPS is more suited to street use.
Ahmet

Ahmet

PS: You don't need to bleed everytime you swap pads. If you're swapping to pads that are thicker than what you're taking off, it helps to open the bleeder at the caliper as you're pushing in the pistons. This way you will be getting rid of the most fatigued fluid in the system anyway. You can do this w/out introducing air into the system. If you think you may have gotten some air in the system, you can always let it sit there for a few minutes until fresh fluid starts coming out of the bleeder (gravity bleed).
Ahmet

poormans9fitty1

i have those pads...i like em

HoBoJoe

I use hawk HP+ good pads... if you're going to be switcing pads for track and street... Hawk Blues seem to be very good for track use...

Ahmet

HPS is a pretty good pad, I'm not knocking it. Surely not fit for track use though, that's my impression anyway...
Ahmet

M758

Yes you don't need to bleed every time, but I really like freshly bleed brakes. I bleed the brakes on my race car as part of my morning track prep routine. To me it give me the edge on brake feel that I really like and yes I use a power bleeder

eclou

The HPS are not suited to the track. You will experience fade with heavy usage. I would highly recommend HP+'s at a minimum for a track pad. I use HP+ for street and track, and Pagid Orange when I'm planning on doing some serious laps, or when the temps are very high.

Darius Juca

how are the Mintex C-techs in your oppionion?

Rick

Jay,
I'd suggest getting a Motive bleeder - they work great. The first time you change pads it may take a bit longer but you'll quickly be able to do it very quickly.

As an example, I had to change pads on all 4 corners & bleed my brakes yesterday at the track between sessions - I did both jobs in about 20 minutes.

As for pads, I'm doubtful that the HPS is the right pad for what you're looking for - it's still too much of a street pad. I've run the HP+ on the track (for DEs) and wasn't really happy. I ran Hawk Blues for about 10 events and loved the performance, initial bite, ability to modulate, etc. but the brake dust is corrosive & very messy. If you use these make sure you wash your wheels & car right away after the event or it becomes very difficult to get off.

I'm currently running Pagid 14 compounds and am quite happy. My ideal pad would be one that performed like the Hawk Blue without the awful mess.

If you want to chat with someone on the phone while you're at your car I'll be glad to walk you through the brake pad procedure & fluid bleeding procedure - just drop me a PM.

Cheers,

Rick

GaryK

Hi Jay,

I usually swap my pads and bleed the brakes at home before going to the track. Then, since I swap the wheels/tires at the same time (the RA1s are great for this since they are very streetable), all I have to do at the track is adjust the front camber plates.

I've tried a lot of different pads. While the Pagid and Hawk racing pads work great once they are warmed up, they will tear up your rotors. I really don't think they are a good choice for a dual-purpose street/track car. I've been using Carbotech pads (www.carbotecheng.com), most recently the new XP9 compound, and I really like them. Like all race pads, they will leave some deposits on the rotors, but this cleans up fine with my street pads.

The biggest problem at a tight track like Second Creek is brake cooling (not to mention coolant and oil temps). I'm using the OG Racing ducting kit for the front brakes, which works much better than the stock ducts.

Ooops, I just realized that you're probably already at the track, so have fun! You should come out to Second Creek on an open track night (Wed evenings) - almost 4hrs of track time, which is a lot more than you'll get during a 2-day PCA event.

Gary
'89 951

W88951

I would not use the Hawk HPS for track track duty. I recommend the Porterfield R4 for the track and the R4S for the street.

I currently have the HPS pads and they are good, but not nearly as good as the R4S's. They are by far the best pads I have ever run.

I certainly recommend switching at least the front pads for the track vs the street.

Darius Juca

can anyone comment on mintex C-techs?